700R4 1-2 shift issue, please help!

AlexK10 · Jun 25, 2020

Thanks!
Will order the transgo jr kit soon.

I saw a video "by Automatic Transmission" "DRTranny" on you tube installing this kit. It does require to remove the valve body to get to the rear roll pin on the TV valve, the other/first TV plunger roll pin is accessible without removing the valve body.

The valve itself/the one that gets stuck and needs replacement all the way back in the tv plunger/valve hole, is held by a roll pin in the valve body but only accessible when removing the valve body from the case as it is "under" the valve body in one of the fluid passages.

This means that accumulators, check balls, separator plates, gaskets etc etc will come out.

With that said I prefer to do this on a bench/dropping the trans

.

What gasket kit should I get to replace the valve body to separator plate to case gaskets?

AlexK10 · Jun 25, 2020

See images for TV Plunger roll pin location and for TV Valve roll pin location.

The later requires the valve body to be removed.

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BTW, the previously posted Sonnax kit is for the TV Plunger, Sleeve and spring.. not for the TV valve.

Don't now if the plunger also gets stuck, but from what I've researched its the valve not the plunger getting stuck. The Transgo Jr kit addresses the valve itself, way in there.

Matt69olds · Jun 26, 2020

Use vasoline to hold the check balls in place during assembly. It also helps to let the trans sit for a while with the valve body off. This allows fluid to drip off the case. If fluid gets in the vasoline it can soften it enough that it won’t hold the check balls in place. It also helps to put the vasoline in the refrigerator to thicken it up. Don’t use wheel bearing grease, it won’t dissolve.

Matt69olds · Jun 26, 2020

If you do remove the valve body, do yourself a favor and order a replacement spacer plate. I would be willing to bet your original will be pretty beat up by the check balls cycling against the plate. It’s not uncommon to find some of the balls either wedged in the plate, or worn the hole big enough to pass thru it.

AlexK10 · Jun 26, 2020

Thanks,

Transgo site has two different kits, one is the Transgo JR (SK 700 JR) and the other a Transgo Skift Kit (SK 700). See attached photos for detail.
SK 700 kit has the gaskets and no separator plate

SK 700 JR kit has no gaskets and no separator plate

I will need to drop the pan to check for type 1 or 2 valve body before ordering. And if I have an early 700r4 valve it would need the SK 700, the SK 700 JR is for later models.

As Matt suggested either way I would need a new separator plate.

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AlexK10 · Jun 26, 2020

Type 1 vs Type 2 valve body

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HotRodPC · Jun 26, 2020

You're likely to need a pan gasket too, not sure the Jr kit comes with any gaskets since it's intended to be installed with a rebuild kit. So I'd probably just order a complete gasket kit. It'll come with both early and late VB gaskets so you know you have the correct ones. This way you also have any O Rings you might want to replace, and I think the front and rear seal come in it too. May as well replace that front seal since you're going to take it out. http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/700R4_transmission_gasket_kit_p/350-000035037.htm

AlexK10 · Jun 26, 2020

I found and old (last year) photo of the valve body when I changed the oil pan and servo.

Confirmed to have a Type 1 (two hole A, B) valve body. Therefore, according to the Transgo site, I need the SK 700 kit which has the plate gaskets.

In addition, I need a new plate and pan gasket as suggested by HotRod.

Might as well check my lockup setup to simplify it and get it to work while I'm there.

Any ideas with the lockup? Looking for the least wires, simplest lockup, no temp sensor and no vacuum lockup.

Planning to do a floor jack trans plate of some sort to help with dropping/installing the trans and TC. Last time I did this it was a hell of a job balancing all this on the 4" jack pad.

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AlexK10 · Jun 26, 2020

Ordered:
Transgo SK700 kit
Transgo Hi-Performance separator plate
Pan gasket and filter

Started making a trans plate/support for my floor jack.

Ill start tearing stuff apart when everything is here. Would like to get the trans dropped on a Saturday and installed the following weekend.

Anything else I should watch out for?

HotRodPC · Jun 26, 2020

Since you'll have the trans out, it'll be a great time to inspect the flexplate for any cracks that will potentially get worse, and also push on your freeze plugs at the back of the block real good and inspect them for any seepage, leaking or thin walled from rusting and replace if needed.

AlexK10 · Jun 26, 2020

HotRodPC said:
Since you'll have the trans out, it'll be a great time to inspect the flexplate for any cracks that will potentially get worse, and also push on your freeze plugs at the back of the block real good and inspect them for any seepage, leaking or thin walled from rusting and replace if needed.

Excellent HotRod, will do!

HotRodPC · Jun 27, 2020

AlexK10 said:
I found and old (last year) photo of the valve body when I changed the oil pan and servo.

Confirmed to have a Type 1 (two hole A, B) valve body. Therefore, according to the Transgo site, I need the SK 700 kit which has the plate gaskets.

In addition, I need a new plate and pan gasket as suggested by HotRod.

Might as well check my lockup setup to simplify it and get it to work while I'm there.

Any ideas with the lockup? Looking for the least wires, simplest lockup, no temp sensor and no vacuum lockup.

Planning to do a floor jack trans plate of some sort to help with dropping/installing the trans and TC. Last time I did this it was a hell of a job balancing all this on the 4" jack pad.

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There's more than one way to get lock up to work. Some aren't cheap though. Like $70 for the all electric kit and wiring. So you're saying yours don't work right ? Could be the lock up solenoid, could be a pressure switch, could be the vacuum switch, could be the converter clutch itself. Could even be a pinched wire in the harness. Being they're only $14 I went ahead and bought a new solenoid for my next build, and I'm getting a new/reman converter so I'll have the most obvious replaced and hope if it don't work, it's outside the transmission. Even with the one wire electrical kit you need your lock up solenoid and the converter clutch itself to be functioning so all you're really bypassing is the Vac switch and facotry wiring harness.

AlexK10 · Jun 27, 2020

Yeap Last night a read through a few ideas to wire the lockup,

4th and 4-3 circuits
4th only
vacuum activated
break pedal opening switch
interior or exterior case pressure switches
temperature based
Simplest of all - no pressure or temp or vacuum switches and manually switching direct to the TCC solenoid with a dash mounted toggle switch (lock up any time at any gear on driver demand)
and combinations of all of the above.

Looking at my VB I think it originally had/have a 4th and 4-3 pressure switch system.

The simplest automatic lockup I've found was to ground the TCC internally to one of the VB (valve body) bolts and only run a single 12v from the TCC solenoid through a two prong 4th pressure switch and out the case via the case plug to a fused and dash switched 12v.

That way I eliminate the 4-3 switch, npt plug it or leave it disconnected, which I think is what later models had, only a 4th circuit pressure switch.

Usually the ground is the one being interrupted by the pressure switch not the powered 12v.

Anything wrong with switching this and grounding to the case and running the 12v through the 4th circuit pressure switch?

1987 GMC Jimmy · Jun 27, 2020

Did you check the gear for damage and the shaft trueness on the governor? My old governor had a wobbly shaft, and the 1-2 shift was horrible. It would scream, and then would violently go bam into 2nd gear.

And that Transgo full kit is a fantastic upgrade. You’ll be cooking with fish grease after that.

AlexK10 · Jun 27, 2020

1987 GMC Jimmy said:
Did you check the gear for damage and the shaft trueness on the governor? My old governor had a wobbly shaft, and the 1-2 shift was horrible. It would scream, and then would violently go bam into 2nd gear.

Yes I checked the governor, shaft/valve action and gear have no noticeable wear or malfunction, spin and valve jiggling is smooth.

700R4 1-2 shift issue, please help!

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