84 K10 replacement radiator and electronic fan combo?

Ewhitaker0020 · May 16, 2020

My radiator for my 84 Chevy K10 with the 305 is on its way out. Does anybody know of a radiator and electronic fan combo kit that will be a direct swap? I'm interested in getting rid of my stock cooler fan and going to an electronic one.

I'm hoping that there's a kit that I can buy and it'll be a direct swap minus wiring up the fans of course. Hopefully one that won't break the bank.

1987 GMC Jimmy · May 16, 2020

People here use Ford Windstar fan assemblies, IIRC. Someone had also done a really nice job with one that fit perfectly in the stock shroud. Maybe from a Taurus, but I can’t remember. It’s buried somewhere on here. Concerning the radiator, is it the Harrison brass-copper style, and does it just leak or cool below par? Reason I ask is that you could look into having it coded and have the leaks soldered. It’s generally happening where the tubes meet the tanks so you don’t have to worry about having solder slathered all over the fins in the middle and it looking trashy. If you’re concerned about the heat dissipation capacity of a cuprous radiator, which I wouldn’t be in half ton truck with a 305, you might look into a Champion all aluminum unit. That’d be the only new one I’d spend money on. IMO, Plastic tanked radiators are a manifestation of a huge cost cutting measure with mediocre durability. I don’t have a beef with aluminum, but if it’s a package deal with plastic, I’ll pass.

Ewhitaker0020 · May 17, 2020

1987 GMC Jimmy said:
People here use Ford Windstar fan assemblies, IIRC. Someone had also done a really nice job with one that fit perfectly in the stock shroud. Maybe from a Taurus, but I can’t remember. It’s buried somewhere on here. Concerning the radiator, is it the Harrison brass-copper style, and does it just leak or cool below par? Reason I ask is that you could look into having it coded and have the leaks soldered. It’s generally happening where the tubes meet the tanks so you don’t have to worry about having solder slathered all over the fins in the middle and it looking trashy. If you’re concerned about the heat dissipation capacity of a cuprous radiator, which I wouldn’t be in half ton truck with a 305, you might look into a Champion all aluminum unit. That’d be the only new one I’d spend money on. IMO, Plastic tanked radiators are a manifestation of a huge cost cutting measure with mediocre durability. I don’t have a beef with aluminum, but if it’s a package deal with plastic, I’ll pass.

I was looking at maybe something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1NEDG0/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_PFrWEbMMAFEMW

Although I don't know anything about his unit. I was hoping there is a solution like this that doesn't involve a whole bunch of trial and error.

I'm really wanting an all metal radiator. Right now mine is starting to leak at the inlets and outlets.

Bextreme04 · May 22, 2020

I feel I should point out that aluminum is NOT a more efficient conductor of heat than copper/brass. In fact it is significantly worse.The lead solder used in the construction of a copper/brass radiator actually pulls down the efficiency enough that it is just barely better than aluminum. The reason race cars use aluminum rather than brass, is because the aluminum radiator can be 25% or more lighter than an equivalent brass radiator, and the durability and better cooling of a brass radiator isn't necessary in a vehicle that wont be sitting idling for long periods of time or throwing road debris into it. It will be far cheaper t ojust get your OEM radiator refinished. Find a local radiator shop and they can take it apart, strip and clean the whole thing and re-solder for less than the cost of that aluminum one you listed. I am upgrading my truck to the ford windstar fans when I swap to a MPFI 454. I got the full fan setup and wiring harness from a local junkyard for $40 and it is an exact size fit on my factory brass 4-core radiator. I can control both fans just like the factory trucks using the ECU from the engine I am swapping in, but you can also just buy a pre-made electric fan harness, controllers, and sensors for under $100 now also. If you want to read a little more on radiator material and design differences, this is a neat synopsis.

https://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/aluminum_vs_copper.php

Camar068 · May 22, 2020

agree with @Bextreme04. Didn't notice until looking closer that the link you put up is a radiator and fan shroud w/fans.

Ewhitaker0020 · Jun 6, 2020

Bextreme04 said:
I feel I should point out that aluminum is NOT a more efficient conductor of heat than copper/brass. In fact it is significantly worse.The lead solder used in the construction of a copper/brass radiator actually pulls down the efficiency enough that it is just barely better than aluminum. The reason race cars use aluminum rather than brass, is because the aluminum radiator can be 25% or more lighter than an equivalent brass radiator, and the durability and better cooling of a brass radiator isn't necessary in a vehicle that wont be sitting idling for long periods of time or throwing road debris into it. It will be far cheaper t ojust get your OEM radiator refinished. Find a local radiator shop and they can take it apart, strip and clean the whole thing and re-solder for less than the cost of that aluminum one you listed. I am upgrading my truck to the ford windstar fans when I swap to a MPFI 454. I got the full fan setup and wiring harness from a local junkyard for $40 and it is an exact size fit on my factory brass 4-core radiator. I can control both fans just like the factory trucks using the ECU from the engine I am swapping in, but you can also just buy a pre-made electric fan harness, controllers, and sensors for under $100 now also. If you want to read a little more on radiator material and design differences, this is a neat synopsis.

https://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/aluminum_vs_copper.php

Maybe this is the better route. My radiator is leaking a little, but if it can be refinished and saved then that's the path I would like to take.

Mainly I'm just wanting to upgrade to electronic fans. I would love the space it saves. I wonder if that setup you got would also fit onto my radiator in my 84 k10?

80BrownK10 · Jun 7, 2020

People say plastic radiators are junk. While I agree they won't last 40 years they will usually last a long time. And at 1/5 the cost of new brass radiators they definitely fit the bill. I have a cheap parts store plastic one in my ranger that I sold last year. It had been in there 15 years easy no leaks. It was one that I replaced the original plastic leaky tank radiator after it was about 25 years old.

75gmck25 · Jun 7, 2020

Jegs sells a Champion all aluminum(no plastic tanks) radiator to fit the squarebody. I am using one with the stock fan and severe duty fan clutch and it is ultra reliable. I also have a Stewart stage 1 high flow water pump and 195 degree high flow thermostat. It warms up fine in the winter, and yet is so effective that it never gets above 200 degrees in hot weather with A/C running.

I also use the long PS belt that goes around the crank, water pump and PS pump. This means I have two V-belts driving my water pump. This was the stock setup for HD cooling in ‘75.

Bruce

84 K10 replacement radiator and electronic fan combo?

Ewhitaker0020

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1987 GMC Jimmy

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Ewhitaker0020

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Bextreme04

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Camar068

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Ewhitaker0020

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80BrownK10

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75gmck25

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