14 bolt FF fluid questions

I took the bit out. I had to reuse the... holder.. thingy from another hole saw as this one didnt come with it. makes sense, reuse the holder but replace bits. Since i have a drill press I dont think it needs a center drill.

Good job. Smart work on the speed reduction and using peck drilling to keep the saw lubricated and clear the chips. As I said earlier, just make sure you have a sound way to secure the sheet metal so it doesn't spin if the saw grabs it. You don't want to get in the way of something like that.

The chucks are just held in by the taper. I whack with a rubber mallet will usually seat them just fine. They don't really need much force at all. There's a slot in the quill to put a wedge in and knock the taper out in case you need to change the chuck.

You're right, without a full floater you would need the axles. And you might consider taking a few leaves out. If the springs are set up to carry 3000 lbs and you're only carrying 1K you don't really need the thing bucking around on you. YMMV.

Seems like a lot of money and hassle for a 4 inch circle of thin steel. Why not go down to the local hardware store and buy a round gang box cover or something similar? It would have been galvanized steel and probably just cost a few bucks. Something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Electric-Round-Metal-Weatherproof-Electrical-Box-Cover/3395234

That 4" hole saw couldn't have been cheap.

Way to piss on my parade lol.
Also that gang cover has incompatible holes on it, they will assuredly leak.
Ive been known to spend 3k fixing a 2k car, as you can see ive been hustling my entire life.

Its about learning and manufacturing solutions, the cost of a hole saw and a drill bit for the bolt holes is worth that.

I have to manufacture different pieces, my original plan the hole saw skipped over so I couldnt get my drill holes lined up right, and it needs a hole a SHY larger than 1/2 to fit the bolts at the neck of the bolt, so I bought a metal cutting stepper drill bit. I kinda knew my original piece would need a replan but its to not sadness, my hole saw has a lot of life left and I have a metric crapload of road signs. Your move, physics.

When cutting i have the sign positioned so in direction of rotation it would hit the base of the drill press and I have various C clamps

Couldn't you pack the bearings with grease instead of using oil. I think it would work
and you wouldn't have to worry about any leaks.

AuroraGirl said:

Blue RTV silicone.. you think thats oil resistant? and heat? I cant imagine the fluid will be any hotter than the bearings will make it, so not outrageous given the surface area of the fluid. So I think blue rtv would be good on temperature. I Can get the black stuff, too. I got tubes upon tubes on the blue stuff, which I used for my intake and other coolant items. I am gonna go measure the axle flange and see if I can buy a hole saw in that size.

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Use Back or Grey Silicone.

disenough said:

Couldn't you pack the bearings with grease instead of using oil. I think it would work
and you wouldn't have to worry about any leaks.

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Wont the grease... just make its way inside the axle housing? there is nothing to hold it in the bearing I dont think.

Got the discs made.. they arent the best of best quality, tbh, but If i have issues i can remake them. The flange gaskets will probably make up for my imperfections, and some silicone.



Look at how nasty this fluid is... disgusting.Looks like.. water is in there? The axle shaft had rust all over it. Kinda looks like a runny poop, @Rusty Nail again?


The test fit to make sure it will all line up and go on. I have the lock washer that go on the bolts and I am currently scuffed up the snowmobile sign-side with sand paper and threw some black paint over it, im about to go back for coat 2, coat three ill hit the silicone, bolts, wheel again. Im waiting for some stuff to open up, so i can go get black silicone (i ran out apparently) and some gear lube.

Based on your last three threads regarding your trailer, yes this is great experience learning how to do “stuff”. Fabricating, wrenching, etc.
But you would be well served to listen to some folks suggestions. Literally, a dump run trailer with no brakes does not warrant more than enough time and money to keep air in the tires and the bearings from burning up.
Speaking of which, you could literally pack them with grease and they’d probably last you 5 years. Unless the dump is 100miles away at 80mph, lol.
For oil, don’t waste a bunch of money on gear oil. It’s not needed in this application. KeY word being gears. You’re not propelling anything with gears. You’ll have to fill more than if the diff was in it. Or maybe you didn’t remove the diff, idk. The cheapest motor oil you can find will keep the bearings happy for a long time.

Grit dog said:

Based on your last three threads regarding your trailer, yes this is great experience learning how to do “stuff”. Fabricating, wrenching, etc.
But you would be well served to listen to some folks suggestions. Literally, a dump run trailer with no brakes does not warrant more than enough time and money to keep air in the tires and the bearings from burning up.
Speaking of which, you could literally pack them with grease and they’d probably last you 5 years. Unless the dump is 100miles away at 80mph, lol.
For oil, don’t waste a bunch of money on gear oil. It’s not needed in this application. KeY word being gears. You’re not propelling anything with gears. You’ll have to fill more than if the diff was in it. Or maybe you didn’t remove the diff, idk. The cheapest motor oil you can find will keep the bearings happy for a long time.

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I have a five gallon pale of brand new gear lube, and I didnt know it till yesterday haha

Like another mentioned previously, I jacked up the end and filled it with gear lube to 1) flush out the poop 2) put the cover on otherside, jacked up my side further, then filled the baby quite a bit where i felt comfortable it had expansion room while also not being too low to starve a side in a turn or sway

There’s a plug on the diff to fill from, or you could jack up each side....
No need to complicate things!

Grit dog said:

There’s a plug on the diff to fill from, or you could jack up each side....
No need to complicate things!

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??

^ The hole in the diff cover with a threaded plug in it, where the oil goes?
What you did was like filling your crankcase through the dipstick tube!

Grit dog said:

^ The hole in the diff cover with a threaded plug in it, where the oil goes?
What you did was like filling your crankcase through the dipstick tube!

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Yes, but the axle shafts are no longer present. It cant splash lubricate
so enough has to reach the end bearings by pure fill, and id imagine it would either overfill at the fill before that or just take forever to spread out

Grit dog said:

^ The hole in the diff cover with a threaded plug in it, where the oil goes?
What you did was like filling your crankcase through the dipstick tube!

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With the axle out, it's a big giant hole? Pretty easy to get lube in there.