small block buick - carburetors, radiators, suggestions?

I have a 77 buick electra. AC. Sat for a LONG time. The thing runs, surprisingly. But its gonna need some work. First and foremost, I am going to replace the carburetor. I know quadrajet fans will say their piece but unless a brand new one could be had out of the box(or rebuilt) for competitive prices that wont require internal adjusgments, I am going to go my route of edelbrock or holly or other brands. I have a quadrajet manifold adapter for a edelbrock already(should work if it works for sbc?) and the iron manifold appears fine, I wont remove it because its not leaking and its useable. This car was hobbled back to life by the first owner who i bought it from. Sat in a shed since 1988. The radiator leaks because washer fluid must have froze at the top of radiator, so I will need it repaired or replaced. Its not beefy by any means... thoughts?

Its gonna get all fluids, all hoses, tune up, gaskets on valve covers, belts, etc.

AC will stay in place for now but not touched.

Anyone have experience or relevant information that might be helpful? It appears lines at fuel pump are leaking, which I can fix.. but they are swollen... did someone use vacuum line for gas?????

If I replace carb, can the cruise control module and stuff be fitted on it? or would after market be better?

Alternator tests good atm, i will leave it in place. Water pump pushes well. Clutch fan will be replaced. Brake fluid leaks from rear, will address.

Motor sounds healthy and has an exhaust leak with a beautiful note.
heres some pics:

pic

How many vehicles do you have on that property? lol

Fuel lines get like that with age, the rubber breaks down. Replace and you'll be fine. If it runs good and doesn't leak I wouldn't touch the carb, but I'm cheap like that. I would just hose it down with a can or 2 of carb cleaner and run seafoam through the next 2 tanks. That's what I did with my q-jet on the 350 I just put in the 'burb and I'm getting 12mpg! If you're not going to race it just get a radiator off rockauto, lol. Unless you got cheap repair places up by you. Down here they only want to repair big rig radiators.

TubeTruck said:

How many vehicles do you have on that property? lol

Fuel lines get like that with age, the rubber breaks down. Replace and you'll be fine. If it runs good and doesn't leak I wouldn't touch the carb, but I'm cheap like that. I would just hose it down with a can or 2 of carb cleaner and run seafoam through the next 2 tanks. That's what I did with my q-jet on the 350 I just put in the 'burb and I'm getting 12mpg! If you're not going to race it just get a radiator off rockauto, lol. Unless you got cheap repair places up by you. Down here they only want to repair big rig radiators.

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The carb is getting replaced, even if I replace it with a rebuilt Qjet. It doesnt run right, and the linkages and vacuum controls all over the carb are not hooked up properly and stuff. Like, the secondaries arent even functional thats where it is. I dont like complexity in carbs, so I want to go simpler.

Holley anything > Edelbrock everything

Buick 350s make very good torque likely.
Holley will sell correct fit pieces to adapt the factory parts of concern, NP.
www.jegs.com

Great chance to adapt one of the brass radiators you got saved up, but your Buick may have one in it already.
Count on changing the fuel pump and the gas cap.
Anndddd y u no pix the ride?
I like 1977 Buicks as much as the next guy...well, probably more than the next guy, but who is counting?

A couple comments. I used a Champion all aluminum radiator from Jegs in my K25 and it cools much better than my stock 3 row brass radiator. It’s also one of the most reasonably priced aluminum radiators. YMMV

For fuel hose, try using SAE J30R9 (high pressure) or J30R7 (TBI pressure) fuel injection hose, since it holds up much better with modern gas with ethanol. I would look for online suppliers, since the price per foot at local auto parts store is crazy high.

Bruce

TubeTruck said:

How many vehicles do you have on that property? lol

Click to expand...

A lot. Currently:
1940s dodge pickup,
1951-1953 Ford F6
19

Rusty Nail said:

Holley anything > Edelbrock everything

Buick 350s make very good torque likely.
Holley will sell correct fit pieces to adapt the factory parts of concern, NP.
www.jegs.com

Great chance to adapt one of the brass radiators you got saved up, but your Buick may have one in it already.
Count on changing the fuel pump and the gas cap.
Anndddd y u no pix the ride?
I like 1977 Buicks as much as the next guy...well, probably more than the next guy, but who is counting?

Click to expand...

It has a brass radiator. And the square body radiators are QUITE larger than the one in my buick. If I can find a reasonable holley and it comes with items you describe I would give them a shot.

And I never finished my car list lmao.

A lot. Currently:
A couple model A, T body/frames, unknown years. With a couple 1920s-1940s chevy and ford pickups to boot
A model A or T(unknown) made into a tractor during great depression
An old 1930s race car
1940s dodge pickup - got a ford flathead in the bed because why not
1951-1953 Ford F6 - flathead
1953 Ford Customline - flathead
1975 Pontiac Grand Am - SBP 400 TH350
1977 Buick Electra Limited - SBB 350 TH350
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Xtreme - SBO 260 TH350
1978 Chevrolet K10 Cheyanne - SBC 400 TH350
1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme- SBO 260 TH350
1980 GMC K25 Sierra Grande - SBC 350 (pictured in pfp) SM465
1990 Oldsmobile Delta 88 - 3800 Series I
1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Northstar V8
1999 Buick Park Avenue - 3800 Series II Supercharged
2001 Mercury Grand Marquis - Ford Modular V8
2006 Hyundai Sonata - 4 cylinder. no one cares.
2010 Dodge Journey - 6 cylinder. even more dont care.

Hey you asked for a list, not running condition.

Also, cars of past posession:

1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - not worthy of mention
1988 Buick Lesabre - 3800 Series I
1996 Chevrolet half ton (silverado?) - SBC but "new"
1998 Buick Park Avenue - 3800 Series II
1998 Pontiac Grand Prix - 3800 Series II
1999 Saturn SW2 - DOHC version of Saturn engine
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora - LX5 took equal parts oil to equal parts gasoline damn near
2003 Pontiac Grand Am - We dont talk about the ugly step child

While we we are at it, lets talk about my illegal scrapyard thats half buried.

Any car from my mother, my uncle, my grandpa, and my grandma that was discarded (versus sold) after they moved to this property in 1981 is currently in some fashion on property
So, I have the following cars in some fashion

1950s buick sedan
1960s buick sedan
1968-1970 Chevy impala (WHY OH WHY DID HE DO THIS TO YOU??)
1970s chevy Caprice
1970s ford maverick (x2)
1970s pontiac sunfire
1970s square (x3 by what I can tell)
1980s square (x1 from horizontal fender)
1970s ford f100 (found where my mirrors came from)
1960s oldsmobile sedan (x2)
1 garden tractor(????)
1 catepillar (????????????????????????)
1980s GM sedan-made-stock-car
1980s Ford mustang (fox body)


Questions?

AuroraGirl said:

A lot. Currently:
1940s dodge pickup,
1951-1953 Ford F6
19


It has a brass radiator. And the square body radiators are QUITE larger than the one in my buick. If I can find a reasonable holley and it comes with items you describe I would give them a shot.

And I never finished my car list lmao.

A lot. Currently:
A couple model A, T body/frames, unknown years. With a couple 1920s-1940s chevy and ford pickups to boot
A model A or T(unknown) made into a tractor during great depression
An old 1930s race car
1940s dodge pickup - got a ford flathead in the bed because why not
1951-1953 Ford F6 - flathead
1953 Ford Customline - flathead
1975 Pontiac Grand Am - SBP 400 TH350
1977 Buick Electra Limited - SBB 350 TH350
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Xtreme - SBO 260 TH350
1978 Chevrolet K10 Cheyanne - SBC 400 TH350
1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme- SBO 260 TH350
1980 GMC K25 Sierra Grande - SBC 350 (pictured in pfp) SM465
1990 Oldsmobile Delta 88 - 3800 Series I
1999 Oldsmobile Aurora - Northstar V8
1999 Buick Park Avenue - 3800 Series II Supercharged
2001 Mercury Grand Marquis - Ford Modular V8
2006 Hyundai Sonata - 4 cylinder. no one cares.
2010 Dodge Journey - 6 cylinder. even more dont care.

Hey you asked for a list, not running condition.

Also, cars of past posession:

1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera - not worthy of mention
1988 Buick Lesabre - 3800 Series I
1996 Chevrolet half ton (silverado?) - SBC but "new"
1998 Buick Park Avenue - 3800 Series II
1998 Pontiac Grand Prix - 3800 Series II
1999 Saturn SW2 - DOHC version of Saturn engine
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora - LX5 took equal parts oil to equal parts gasoline damn near
2003 Pontiac Grand Am - We dont talk about the ugly step child

While we we are at it, lets talk about my illegal scrapyard thats half buried.

Any car from my mother, my uncle, my grandpa, and my grandma that was discarded (versus sold) after they moved to this property in 1981 is currently in some fashion on property
So, I have the following cars in some fashion

1950s buick sedan
1960s buick sedan
1968-1970 Chevy impala (WHY OH WHY DID HE DO THIS TO YOU??)
1970s chevy Caprice
1970s ford maverick (x2)
1970s pontiac sunfire
1970s square (x3 by what I can tell)
1980s square (x1 from horizontal fender)
1970s ford f100 (found where my mirrors came from)
1960s oldsmobile sedan (x2)
1 garden tractor(????)
1 catepillar (????????????????????????)
1980s GM sedan-made-stock-car
1980s Ford mustang (fox body)


Questions?

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Pics of these 20s n 30s model a's!! That 30s ford race car sounds cool!

if you get a new one, find one online at Autozone/Advanced Auto that you like. Then wait until they have a 20% off online sale....that'd be a new carb for ~$240. My last one was a Demon and I loved it. Edelbrock is fine as well.

This post saw me coming, but I can’t stand mute. You can get that thing rebuilt like a brand new unit for $200-$250, but I’d call the following people and see. I sent mine to Mountain Man Carburetor & Fuel Injection in Hackett, AR and never had to worry again. It’s ready to go out of the packaging. Mind you, mine is the scary feedback E4ME. Your M4ME isn’t gonna give you any static after they get done with it. Quadrajet Power used to frequent the forums on here, but he’s in the same price range. Cliff Ruggles is also a **** with these things, but his backlog is a joke at this point.

My carb was a work of art after the fact, and I would have regretted going aftermarket. That carb was ugly, but it came off a car that was always daily driven so it still ran fine. I just wanted a fresh start. This car’s gone almost 300,000 miles with a carb that many in car circles say is the worst ever made of a family of carbs that are the worst ever made. Blows my mind, and I hate how people don’t appreciate them, but I’ve reaped the reliability and good economy from mine. If I had a car or truck with an M4MC/E, I’d plop that bad boy on there and never think about it again.

1987 GMC Jimmy said:

This post saw me coming, but I can’t stand mute. You can get that thing rebuilt like a brand new unit for $200-$250, but I’d call the following people and see. I sent mine to Mountain Man Carburetor & Fuel Injection in Hackett, AR and never had to worry again. It’s ready to go out of the packaging. Mind you, mine is the scary feedback E4ME. Your M4ME isn’t gonna give you any static after they get done with it. Quadrajet Power used to frequent the forums on here, but he’s in the same price range. Cliff Ruggles is also a **** with these things, but his backlog is a joke at this point.

My carb was a work of art after the fact, and I would have regretted going aftermarket. That carb was ugly, but it came off a car that was always daily driven so it still ran fine. I just wanted a fresh start. This car’s gone almost 300,000 miles with a carb that many in car circles say is the worst ever made of a family of carbs that are the worst ever made. Blows my mind, and I hate how people don’t appreciate them, but I’ve reaped the reliability and good economy from mine. If I had a car or truck with an M4MC/E, I’d plop that bad boy on there and never think about it again.

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Is that what I have? Im not the keenest of sending a carb out.. but would be open to it for those prices since my edelbrock was more than that. But I know i would retain intended function, too. Can the choke be made electric? I really dont like messing with thermostatic or other types of chokes, electric cuts out complexity for simplicity, something I think makes people dislike the quadrajets.

Wait. I just realized it IS an electric choke. OH. Are you able to explain what all the other gadgets on the carb do?
Is this the same carb?

In my first photo on the car, the #2 appears to be the secondaries. How does it work and is the screw for making them... more aggressive by turning inward?
on photo 2 #5 or #6 im sure are distributor vacc, i just dont see which one. Im guessing you agree. but not sure what other is. And the unlabled circle i think is the accelerator pump, not sure why i circled it.

There are multiple versions of the Quadra jet over the years, so it’s hard to have a short explanation of all the pieces and parts.
#2 is connected to the secondary linkage but it’s the choke pull-off. It allows the choke to set fully on to start, and then pulls it slowly “off” (leaner) to let it keep running. It also keeps the secondary air flaps from opening until the choke is off.
The secondary throttle plates are down lower in the venturies, inside the base, and they are mechanically controlled by the linkage. The two small secondary flaps/doors you see on top are vacuum controlled to let more air in as the carb needs it. The secondary air flap adjustment screw sets the tension on the flap, which determines how quickly it opens.

#3-#6 seem to be pointing to the various vacuum connections. The large 3/8” connector should be for the PVC hose. There should be one manifold vacuum port toward the driver’s side and a ported (no vacuum at idle) vacuum port on the other side. The far left port probably connects to the front choke pull off.

If this is on one of your trucks, it’s not original. Chevy/GMC truck carburetors have the gas line inlet pointing to the passenger side, not straight out to the front.

You can order Cliff Ruggles’s book on Amazon and it will explain most of what you need. However, it covers nearly all models of Quadrajet, so it takes some studying to determine what applies to your carburetor.

Bruce

75gmck25 said:

There are multiple versions of the Quadra jet over the years, so it’s hard to have a short explanation of all the pieces and parts.
#2 is connected to the secondary linkage but it’s the choke pull-off. It allows the choke to set fully on to start, and then pulls it slowly “off” (leaner) to let it keep running. It also keeps the secondary air flaps from opening until the choke is off.
The secondary throttle plates are down lower in the venturies, inside the base, and they are mechanically controlled by the linkage. The two small secondary flaps/doors you see on top are vacuum controlled to let more air in as the carb needs it. The secondary air flap adjustment screw sets the tension on the flap, which determines how quickly it opens.

#3-#6 seem to be pointing to the various vacuum connections. The large 3/8” connector should be for the PVC hose. There should be one manifold vacuum port toward the driver’s side and a ported (no vacuum at idle) vacuum port on the other side. The far left port probably connects to the front choke pull off.

If this is on one of your trucks, it’s not original. Chevy/GMC truck carburetors have the gas line inlet pointing to the passenger side, not straight out to the front.

You can order Cliff Ruggles’s book on Amazon and it will explain most of what you need. However, it covers nearly all models of Quadrajet, so it takes some studying to determine what applies to your carburetor.

Bruce

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Oh im not gonna rebuild it myself. Id do an edelbrock maybe but not that. Ive comfortably done 2 small engine ones, and that was dicey. The info was helpful tho, thanks. And this is on a 1977 buick sedan. small block buick not chevy

I made a mistake here. Your carb has a hot air choke so it’s an M4MC. I saw the black choke heater and looked no further at the steel tube going into it. It’s more like your thermostatic mechanism for an electric choke being integral to the carb rather than being divorced and sitting on the intake. I would actually prefer this over electric and divorced myself, but you can convert to electric if you so desire. They sell the kit but you’d be wise to wire it through an oil pressure safety switch so the choke doesn’t run away if you leave the key on for a little before starting and screw you up on a cold day. I’d also do it on a fused circuit, but if you do it to just a keyed hot, put an inline fuse in the circuit for extra safety.

Bruce gave a lot of good info. The main thing I’ll add is you car should have the emissions sticker which tells you what all accessories are supposed to be coming off the carb. Then you can discriminate between what you want to keep and what you want to delete. If it’s gone, Autozone has the diagrams. Yours should just be federal emissions for a ‘77 Buick 350.

I’d expect a turnaround of 5-10 business days. I think I waited a week for mine to get done so it was pretty quick. These boutique carb builders should stock a few BOP Q-Jets, but you already have the core so I wouldn’t pay more than you have to.

For the rad, I like the idea of the Champion all aluminum or saving the OEM one if it’s the brass/steel unit. If you have access to a good radiator shop, you can have it cored out and any leaks soldered. That service around my area is 50-100. Plastic tanked aftermarket rads are throwaway and replace after they bust IMO, but I don’t care for plastic very much. If you can see the leak, and it’s just one or two tubes where they meet the tanks, it’s no big deal to fix it and keep rolling.