Interior redo

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eskimomann209

eskimomann209

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RoryH19 said:
What mil did you use? I see 50 and 80 Kilmat on Amazon.
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I used the 80 mil.

I didn’t use MLV per say. But a commercial sound deadener. My buddy owns a flooring company and got some off him. It helps a lot. Sound wasn’t my fear. Though thumping on the sheet metal in comparison was dramatically different. I did it for the promise of temperature retention as well.
 
FireTruck1984

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Use 80 mil minimum. Dynamat Kilmat Noico are all good products. I’ve had great results with Noico 80 mil, and it’s half the cost of Dynamat. Heat is not needed, just install it in a warm environment. Combined with sound deadening and heat shield you’ll get a very quiet and comfortable interior. And of course don’t take short cuts, the product is only as good as the installation.

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eskimomann209

eskimomann209

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FireTruck1984 said:
Use 80 mil minimum. Dynamat Kilmat Noico are all good products. I’ve had great results with Noico 80 mil, and it’s half the cost of Dynamat. Heat is not needed, just install it in a warm environment. Combined with sound deadening and heat shield you’ll get a very quiet and comfortable interior. And of course don’t take short cuts, the product is only as good as the installation.

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Now that’s what my layering looked like but dayuuuuuuum homie! you put all new EVERYTHING .... suuuuuper sexy.
 
Craig 85

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nabeshin said:
How big of a difference was it after the boom mat?
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It had a big difference in sound, not heat, but I expected that. I have foil backed jute I will be adding after I paint the truck.
 
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75gmck25

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What are you going to use for the final covering over the vertical area behind the seat? I think my truck originally had some type of behind-the-seat cover or tray with a fiberboard panel running down the back wall, since there is a line of screw holes a few inches down from the window. However, that tray is long gone.

I've considered carpeting a new piece of fiberboard for a back panel covering, but I'm not sure how will it will turn around inside the cab corners to provide full coverage all the way to the door posts.

Bruce
 
TubeTruck

TubeTruck

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SDJunkMan said:
How did you get your dash out? I thought they were welded in. I thought about replacing a hacked one that's in one of my trucks.
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The top part near the windshield is spot welded in. The sides and bottom are bolted and have a few brackets. Drill out the spot welds and remove it then weld it back in.
 
SDJunkMan

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TubeTruck said:
The top part near the windshield is spot welded in. The sides and bottom are bolted and have a few brackets. Drill out the spot welds and remove it then weld it back in.
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That's what I was guessing. I suppose the windshield has to be out to do this?
 
TubeTruck

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SDJunkMan said:
That's what I was guessing. I suppose the windshield has to be out to do this?
Click to expand...

I believe the tabs fold down away from the windshield. I'll take pics a bit later. Mine is all apart lol
 
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TubeTruck

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SDJunkMan said:
That's what I was guessing. I suppose the windshield has to be out to do this?
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After looking at it again it might be best to have the windshield out but you could possibly do it with it in. Here's what it looks like, you can see the rusty spot weld

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SDJunkMan

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TubeTruck said:
After looking at it again it might be best to have the windshield out but you could possibly do it with it in. Here's what it looks like, you can see the rusty spot weld

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I will probably pull the windshield anyways as I plan to paint the truck, not to mention welding next to the rubber seal would be hard to do without catching it on fire.

I had unbolted a dash on a truck that I was junking and when it wouldn't come out I said the heck with it, so I figured it was probably welded in.
 
eskimomann209

eskimomann209

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SDJunkMan said:
How did you get your dash out? I thought they were welded in. I thought about replacing a hacked one that's in one of my trucks.
Click to expand...
It is spot welded and the windshield/ gasket must be removed. I wire wheeler along that lip to find the spot weld dimples and drilled it out. They have a spot weld remover. I didn’t use it. I also took the time to paint the inside of the dash. GM didn’t bother with it. Along the lip I put weld thru primer. Besides drilling that out. It comes out pretty smooth
 
eskimomann209

eskimomann209

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Pics

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SDJunkMan

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eskimomann209 said:
It is spot welded and the windshield/ gasket must be removed. I wire wheeler along that lip to find the spot weld dimples and drilled it out. They have a spot weld remover. I didn’t use it. I also took the time to paint the inside of the dash. GM didn’t bother with it. Along the lip I put weld thru primer. Besides drilling that out. It comes out pretty smooth
Click to expand...
Sounds good. I have a spot weld cutter, but need to order a new cutter for it, it lost a tooth. Definatly have to put sound dampener and insulation on the firewall while it's out. It doesn't look like there is much room to get a drill in there.
 
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