My 1984 K5 Plow Teeruk 6.2 Rear Diffy Is Bad...

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CORVAIRWILD

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UGLYTRUK
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1984
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K2500 Suburban 4x4
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6.2
I plowed for 5 years with a totally junk 1/2 ton short wheelbase that I bought for $125. But it did have low miles. And I know how to treat a vehicle Not To Break Stuff, well most of the time anyways. And this 700 that I had rebuilt had supposedly all the best parts. But don't we always hear that. So it's 7:25 at night, and just about to crawl under the Blazer and pull the cover and see what kind of chunks I've got sitting in the bottom of the pig
 

Poppy 87

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How much $$ for the red K5?

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TubeTruck

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So it's 7:25 at night, and just about to crawl under the Blazer and pull the cover and see what kind of chunks I've got sitting in the bottom of the pig


:popcorn:
 

CORVAIRWILD

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Be careful what you read on the internet, I'm a big liar. It's now 8:17, and I've been toodling around my huge wreck of a building that I bought two years ago, sweeping up the demolition from one of the guys, that was all littering the staircase to the basement. Just doing little odd jobs before I crawl underneath and see the damage that I don't really want to see. I called one shop today a couple hours away to get a quote to rebuild my differential, with parts that I would Supply from RockAuto, and the book says 7 hours x $
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100 an hour. Sounds like a lot of money
 

82Diesel

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.
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Wait you said a 6.2L? :O :O everyone keeps finding/Owning them but me. :(

I've been looking 4+ yrs for a 1982 6.2L blazer. Ugh.
 

82Diesel

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that is MINT though I'm actually lookin at buying a 91 K5 Right now 4WD etc But is a Gas Job. I'd rather have a 0-60 in 15 mins Diesel.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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I have a few 6.2, and for some reason even though this Blazer was badly neglected and beat up when I bought it over 10 years ago, it's always been a hot rod, and always starts the easiest when very cold, below 0f. I also have a 6.2 84 Suburban, almost exact same color, with double the mileage, and even though it runs very well and was always very well maintained, it has half the power of the Blazer. The Blazer has 3.73 gears with a 700R4, the Suburban has for 4.10 gears, with a rebuilt 700R4. The Suburban should have a bit more grunt off the line with the steeper gears, but its a slug, and the Blazer will actually burn rubber!

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PrairieDrifter

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Just as I suspected.. total destruction lol. She really went on ya too! That's some good carnage, be gentle on the front axle, I'm sure she's not far behind.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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Prairie, I don't think it's that bad, obviously the crown and spider gears are toast, ones is even lying shattered on the bottom. While the ring and pinion look all right, the bearings obviously have been massaged with plenty of metal chunks. But I'm going to buy the spider and crown gear set from RockAuto. Hopefully the bolt that holds the pin in doesn't break, and I'll
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put it back together and see how long it lasts
 

PrairieDrifter

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Prairie, I don't think it's that bad, obviously the crown and spider gears are toast, ones is even lying shattered on the bottom. While the ring and pinion look all right, the bearings obviously have been massaged with plenty of metal chunks. But I'm going to buy the spider and crown gear set from RockAuto. Hopefully the bolt that holds the pin in doesn't break, and I'll
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put it back together and see how long it lasts
I'm all for that! If you can make it work for a couple more winters, it's a win in my book.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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If I had my previous semi-retired life back, I go with the Dana 60, the 14 bolt full floater out back, my brand new heavy duty rebuilt 700R4 with my full-time transfer case, and a full-time transfer case has a center differential. So you can leave it in 4-wheel drive all the time, just like ALL the mid-70s Chevy four-wheel drives had, and you can put it in lo lock when you're really stuck, but otherwise you don't have to put it in 2 wheel drive and backup every time you hit a bit of pavement, and when I'm plowing my apartments and I hit pavement and the thing starts binding and rocking and rolling, I know I'm in trouble, and that's what probably broke these parts, or contributed greatly.

But I bet you that will never happen for as long as I live!
 

DoubleDingo

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A little damage there.
 

SirRobyn0

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Prairie, I don't think it's that bad, obviously the crown and spider gears are toast, ones is even lying shattered on the bottom. While the ring and pinion look all right, the bearings obviously have been massaged with plenty of metal chunks. But I'm going to buy the spider and crown gear set from RockAuto. Hopefully the bolt that holds the pin in doesn't break, and I'll put it back together and see how long it lasts

That is exactly what I would do. I would also suggest picking up a couple of cans of brake clean. I'd pull the wheels off and the axles out, which will slide right out after you have the spiders out and I'd go to town on the inside of the tubes and pumpkin housing until I had as much of the metal flakes out as I could get. Even if I didn't pull the axles out, I'd at least go to town on the inside of the housing with the brake clean. My reasoning is, you won't fix any bearing damage that has already occurred by cleaning it out good, but you will prevent metal that is still rolling around in there from continuing to do damage. Then when I'd fill it up I'd replace a pint or so of diff fluid with hyperlube. I know it's cold where your at, but hyperlube will help slow down the pinion leak it looks like it has, and help keep an added cushion between worn parts, particularly when the diff gets warm or hot, and even though it's cold there I'd bet the gear oil inside warms considerably when your working her hard.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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SirRobyn, more info on hyperlube pls. And I buy Brake Kleen by the case!

A friend suggested I replace my spider gears with this spool.

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I've long read about them, but have zero knowledge of what they do.
 

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