Time for a new radiator

The Champion aluminum radiators from JEGS do not have any plastic parts that I know of. I've been using one since last summer, and the 3 row aluminum cools much better than the old 3 row copper. I'm running a stock fan, HD fan clutch, Stewart high flow water pump and 195 degree thermostat.

Bruce

Ive been fighting with keeping my truck running cool. the old radiator was brass and would run hot 190-210 when the air temp got above 80-90 deg. I had the old one rodded out didn't gain much if any. After playing with timing fuel mix fan clutches etc. I decided to try a new radiator while i was at it i upgraded from the hd 350 rad 3 core brass that came on the truck to a 454 aluminum 2 core radiator. turns out the 454 radiator was cheaper go figure. and found a used shroud and bracket of it for cheep. now it runs cool 180 deg until the outside temp is around 105-115 then the engine temp starts to climb again.... aluminum radiators cool better thats why all manufactures have switched to them. The biggest draw back to them is when the plastic tanks fail they can completely blow out .

This is a hot topic , no pun intended


Lots of involvement! Must be a good thread, thank you OP. @Hatchet54

I have answered this question before in my life, and have an answer that i'm certain the readers will fine true in-form with my existing statements because I have always felt one way about this.

It's kind of why WE drive a Squarebody Chevrolet ...in my eyes they are tougher than leather.
Sitting heat transfer well aside for now....lets look back. Ever heard "if you don't know your past " any number of things may or can happen. Right?
Looking back the brass radiator in my truck is....thirty years old, just like the truck. It's f- tough. Right? AND you love it. It's okay man. That radiator is the reason you have every dollar in your wallet. There's no shame. It's been there thru thick and thin, just like the old girl it rides in.
So just like the truck, do you REALLY think buying a plastic and aluminum replacement will be BETTER? Might as well turn in your Squarebody card and go buy a freakin Honda.


Know what i'm sayin?


Sabes digo?


Well wtf lol?

Sure a Honda gets better gas mileage...it's made out of aluminum and plastic!

Wait. I see what I did there...very clever.



Continuing with THAT illustration would be like :


A Semi-precious, metal, factory part, which I believe adds value to the truck.
Do you disagree?

Granted an old part of an old truck!.

Everything from the gas to the tires to even brake pad material to the oil has been "improved upon" in the history of OUR truck's lives.

And yet the trucks remain.
People seek different things and want other function while the world turns and sometimes enough engine modification can demand other cooling, sure.

Does brass or aluminum cool better?
I dunno. I may argue they cool DIFFERENTLY.

Convection vs. Conduction , some ****.
Corrosion?
Duration?
Dissipation?

Neither will rust but only one conducts.

Both materials were widely used in cars and trucks at the time but the General chose neither.

For why?

I don't know if one cools better than the other but I know which one I like better.. The one that won't die!

AND I don't have a 500hp smallblock that runs hot.

Speaking of, my Camaro will operate at 225-235° ALL DAY with a 190° and never even so much as hiccups.
(not 500hp lol)

I too run a 195° t-stat in the k5 and my truck runs around 205-210° sometimes but I don't worry about it..it's prolly the gage. Whatever.the fans are computer controlled!
Wait..

CHEVROLET says the L98s get better gas mileage AND run cleaner
@235°

We aren't talking Camaros but the science applies? and seems to be from a good source?



If I think up something else to add later I will.

It's fail-proof . I don't know what's nof to like.

When reconditioning OUR trucks thirty years later, swapping out was never an option. Why is the radiator exempt? It is a very intimate piece of the whole.

My brass radiator will kick your aluminum radiator's ass!

Not a fair fight huh?
One belongs in my truck but one does not.
Good luck buying a thirty year plastic- anything.
'Nuff said!

I don't think the rating of the thermostat has anything to do with how hot your engine gets once it opens.

It heats the engine up to the stated temp then becomes basically useless.

Its like pushing a wagon up a hill. Once you crest it the sky is the limit.

73c20jim said:

I don't think the rating of the thermostat has anything to do with how hot your engine gets once it opens.

It heats the engine up to the stated temp then becomes basically useless.

Its like pushing a wagon up a hill. Once you crest it the sky is the limit.

Click to expand...

Sorry but wrong. a thermostat will maintain the temp of an engine within a narrow range +/- 5-10 deg.
once it heats up it is not fully open it will open or close more or less to maintain a constant temp.. If it doesnt the rest of the cooling system is not keeping up with your engine.

Any engine can overheat with any thermostat. If an engine wants to overheat it will. A thermostat regulates minimum temperature not maximum.

73c20jim said:

Any engine can overheat with any thermostat. If an engine wants to overheat it will. A thermostat regulates minimum temperature not maximum.

Click to expand...

if you cooling system is working correctly you engine will NOT overheat. and the thermostat will maintain a constant temp. not just the minimum. If your running a 180 tstat and your engine is at 220 you have a problem. not just the engine WANTS to overheat.

As several has stated, I would go with rodding it out and hot tanked. These old things have kept the stock engine cool for decades. Mine is far from stock and I run the factory radiator, rodded out and hot tanked of course. My not stock intake creates a lot of heat and it cools just fine @ 190, which isn’t over heated. 200 is even acceptable as long as it isn’t pucking coolant. I just elected to save a few hundred $$$ going this route and put it on other needed things. For what’ve it’s worth.

C10MixMaster said:

Sorry but wrong. a thermostat will maintain the temp of an engine within a narrow range +/- 5-10 deg.
once it heats up it is not fully open it will open or close more or less to maintain a constant temp.. If it doesnt the rest of the cooling system is not keeping up with your engine.

Click to expand...

Don't think I am wrong. Watch the attached video.

Rusty Nail said:

This is a hot topic , no pun intended

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Lots of involvement! Must be a good thread, thank you OP. @Hatchet54

I have answered this question before in my life, and have an answer that i'm certain the readers will fine true in-form with my existing statements because I have always felt one way about this.

It's kind of why WE drive a Squarebody Chevrolet ...in my eyes they are tougher than leather.
Sitting heat transfer well aside for now....lets's look back. Ever heard "if you don't know your past " any number of things may or can happen. Right?
Looking back the brass radiator in my truck is....thirty years old, just like the truck. It's f- tough. Right? AND you love it. It's okay man. That radiator is the reason you have every dollar in your wallet. There's no shame. It's been there thru thick and thin, just like the old girl it rides in.
So just like the truck, do you REALLY think buying a plastic and aluminum replacement will be BETTER? Might as well turn in your Squarebody card and go buy a freakin Honda.


Know what i'm sayin?


Sabes digo?


Well wtf lol?

Sure a Honda gets better gas mileage...it's made out of aluminum and plastic!

Wait. I see what I did there...very clever.



Continuing with THAT illustration would be like :


A Semi-precious, metal, factory part, which I believe adds value to the truck.
Do you disagree?

Granted an old part of an old truck!.

Everything from the gas to the tires to even brake pad material to the oil has been "improved upon" in the history of OUR truck's lives.

And yet the trucks remain.
People seek different things and want other function while the world turns and sometimes enough engine modification can demand other cooling, sure.

Does brass or aluminum cool better?
I dunno. I may argue they cool DIFFERENTLY.

Convection vs. Conduction , some ****.
Corrosion?
Duration?
Dissipation?

Neither will rust but only one conducts.

Both materials were widely used in cars and trucks at the time but the General chose neither.

For why?

I don't know if one cools better than the other but I know which one I like better.. The one that won't die!

AND I don't have a 500hp smallblock that runs hot.

Speaking of, my Camaro will operate at 225-235° ALL DAY with a 190° and never even so much as hiccups.
(not 500hp lol)

I too run a 195° t-stat in the k5 and my truck runs around 205-210° sometimes but I don't worry about it..it's prolly the gage. Whatever.the fans are computer controlled!

CHEVROLET says the L98s get better gas mileage AND run cleaner
@235°

We aren't talking Camaros but the science applies? and seems to be from a good source?



If I think up something else to add later I will.

It's fail-proof . I don't know what's nof to like.

When reconditioning OUR trucks thirty years later, swapping out was never an option. Why is the radiator exempt? It is a very intimate piece of the whole.

My brass radiator will kick your aluminum radiator's ass!

Not a fair fight huh?
One belongs in my truck but one does not.
'Nuff said!

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

I follow your logic, but I mainly agree cuz I'm a stubborn old SOB, and our trucks came with metal radiators, so that is what I wanted back in .

Paid to have a 4 core built using my old end tanks .

Did the aluminium 2 core with plastic tanks work ?
Yes.

Did it look original, and did I like it ?
No.

Enough so for me to support Mr Radiator man and have him build a 4 core.

Not everyone will follow or agree, but that is OK.

Goldie is my truck, and she is happy with metal.

I bought a small 17" x 28" x 1" aluminum radiator 4-5 years ago, and it's been working well with a moderate performance 355 engine in my 82 C10. Did this on the advice of a truck forum member (maybe here) who is using that same radiator with a blown 383. I never see coolant temps above 195-200 even on 100+ degree days, and mostly the temp stays around 180-190.

I got the radiator at O'Reilly Auto parts for around $120 including lifetime warranty. I am also using a std. duty fan clutch and fan. Mine is the "Murray" brand, but I think it is also sold under the "Spectra Premium" name.

I suggest you get the same size you have now, whatever that is, or you possibly will have to change mounting brackets and fan shroud. As for towing, unless you're talking 2,000 lbs, I doubt you'll need anything bigger.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...982/chevrolet/c10-pickup-rwd?q=radiator&pos=1

Hatchet54 said:

So just out of curiosity what makes the OE radiator desirable over a new unit?

Click to expand...

Originality? The thought that bigger and heavier is better?

Aluminum radiators are lighter, smaller, have better heat dissipation, and probably less expensive to make. That's all you see on new cars these days. And they are darn hard to beat with a lifetime warranty from a local parts store.

By all means, check the cost of repairing the OE unit, but you might get sticker shock.

73c20jim said:

Don't think I am wrong. Watch the attached video.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Click to expand...

wish i had a nickle for every expert video on the internet that didnt know what they are talking about lol.

This is just auto shop 101. I recommend grabbing your high school shop book and read what it says on thermostats.

cut copy and pasted from wikipedia

Perhaps the most common example of purely mechanical thermostat technology in use today is the internal combustion engine cooling system thermostat, used to maintain the engine near its optimum operating temperature by regulating the flow of coolant to an air-cooled radiator. This type of thermostat operates using a sealed chamber containing a wax pellet that melts and expands at a set temperature. The expansion of the chamber operates a rod which opens a valve when the operating temperature is exceeded. The operating temperature is determined by the composition of the wax. Once the operating temperature is reached, the thermostat progressively increases or decreases its opening in response to temperature changes, dynamically balancing the coolant recirculation flow and coolant flow to the radiator to maintain the engine temperature in the optimum range.

the argument about removing a thermostat causing overheating is another hotly debated issue. with experts on both sides

Unless you have a problem elsewhere that is causing overheating (clogged radiator, air in the system, etc), a healthy engine WILL NOT overheat just because you took the thermostat out. It will take a very long time for the engine to reach operating temp, and it may even run a little too cool during wintertime, but simply having more coolant flow CAN NOT cause it to overheat on its own.

Yes we all know how a thermostat stays closed until it reaches operating temp then opens to make sure the temp doesn't get too high, and will close slightly to prevent overcooling. Think about it, a partially clogged radiator can make you run a little hotter than normal (like my truck) because there is insufficient coolant flow making it through the radiator to be cooled. An oversized radiator does no such thing, if anything your engine will run too cool because it flows way more than you need, but the right thermostat can fix that by partially closing and restricting flow. But if there is no thermostat there in there at all you would have even more flow than a thermostat that is fully open. Whether it's all the way open or not, there is still physically an object in the path of the flowing coolant restricting it even if just very slightly. With that gone it can flow as freely as the pump can push it (assuming nothing else is restricting it). The ONLY way that could ever lead to overheating is if the engine ran too cool on a regular basis and you made a habit of beating on it while not at optimal operating temp resulting in a blown head gasket.

A thermostat can help maintain a constant temp like you are saying, but if there is an issue that is going to cause you to overheat, no thermostat in the world can fix that unless the thermostat is somehow capable of lowering the temperature of your coolant on it's own, which is not what a thermostat does. It simply regulates how much coolant flows to the radiator which is where the actual cooling takes place. If that engine "wants" to overheat, it's going to do so regardless of what tstat you have.

RecklessWOT said:

Unless you have a problem elsewhere that is causing overheating (clogged radiator, air in the system, etc), a healthy engine WILL NOT overheat just because you took the thermostat out. It will take a very long time for the engine to reach operating temp, and it may even run a little too cool during wintertime, but simply having more coolant flow CAN NOT cause it to overheat on its own.

Yes we all know how a thermostat stays closed until it reaches operating temp then opens to make sure the temp doesn't get too high, and will close slightly to prevent overcooling. Think about it, a partially clogged radiator can make you run a little hotter than normal (like my truck) because there is insufficient coolant flow making it through the radiator to be cooled. An oversized radiator does no such thing, if anything your engine will run too cool because it flows way more than you need, but the right thermostat can fix that by partially closing and restricting flow. But if there is no thermostat there in there at all you would have even more flow than a thermostat that is fully open. Whether it's all the way open or not, there is still physically an object in the path of the flowing coolant restricting it even if just very slightly. With that gone it can flow as freely as the pump can push it (assuming nothing else is restricting it). The ONLY way that could ever lead to overheating is if the engine ran too cool on a regular basis and you made a habit of beating on it while not at optimal operating temp resulting in a blown head gasket.

A thermostat can help maintain a constant temp like you are saying, but if there is an issue that is going to cause you to overheat, no thermostat in the world can fix that unless the thermostat is somehow capable of lowering the temperature of your coolant on it's own, which is not what a thermostat does. It simply regulates how much coolant flows to the radiator which is where the actual cooling takes place. If that engine "wants" to overheat, it's going to do so regardless of what tstat you have.

Click to expand...

you basically got. but if the engine wants to overheat there is an issue with the radiator or air flow..