Where to buy injector pump

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5akman

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I recently posted about my 20 yr old son's 1985 C20 that he just bought. Appears it has an IP problem as it smokes bad on start up and lessens but never really clears up as the engine warms up. The engine also shakes quite badly at idle. It has dual exhaust and both sides put out the same amount of smoke. We've tested the glow plugs and controller and those seem fine. No puffing of smoke out the fill port or dip stick, nor pressure/bubbles in coolant etc. So we're thinking IP.

I see them as cheap as about 375.00 or so off of ebay up to nearly 800.00 at some of the online diesel specific vendors online. Who makes a good pump at an affordable price for a 20 yr old kid?
 

Blue Ox

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Check the injectors first.
 

82Diesel

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I have 2 extra Injection pumps... Rebuilt not long ago.
1 from a 1982 Red Block & Another from a Black Block 6.2 (83+) I can grab.

Do what Ox said, Check the Injectors...
My father Taught me an old trick to take some WD-45 and push it in the nozzle of the Injector to "Clean" it out... If nothing comes out it's a Bad injector.

We run a Big Family Concrete/Construction business so it's fast cheap & simple.
 

5akman

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I have 2 extra Injection pumps... Rebuilt not long ago.
1 from a 1982 Red Block & Another from a Black Block 6.2 (83+) I can grab.

Do what Ox said, Check the Injectors...
My father Taught me an old trick to take some WD-45 and push it in the nozzle of the Injector to "Clean" it out... If nothing comes out it's a Bad injector.

We run a Big Family Concrete/Construction business so it's fast cheap & simple.


Ok, so remove injectors and spray back up through the injector with WD. Should it be a full stream of liquid coming through or is any liquid that exits mean that its ok?

I believe he has a "J" code engine so are injectors and pump different than a "C" code engine?
 

82Diesel

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Ok, so remove injectors and spray back up through the injector with WD. Should it be a full stream of liquid coming through or is any liquid that exits mean that its ok?

I believe he has a "J" code engine so are injectors and pump different than a "C" code engine?

Only thing J codes have to do with the engine is No Emissions, Only 1/2 Tons had the Emissions.
J-Code is just a Dual plane Intake rather than a C-Code Shaped Intake for the EGR to Sit on top of.

Take the Injectors out... and yes give a spray into the Injector nozzle, If the WD & Diesel fuel both comes out it's a Good Injector If not It's bad. If No Liquid comes out It's probably Clogged or something.
 

Blue Ox

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82, I hate to pee on your parade, but you can't spray through diesel injectors with a can of WD-40. They open at 1800 PSI. So if you're spraying through them either you've got a real serious spray can or they're stuck open.

First thing to do is loosen the injector lines one at a time while the engine is idling. Fuel will squirt out, so keep your fingers away from that part. Without fuel going to the injector the cylinder will stop firing. You should notice the change in the engine when you lose the cylinder. If not that cylinder is dead. Also have somebody watch the exhaust. If the smoke suddenly stops you've also found a problem. Then you can swap the injector with another cylinder to see if the problem moves.

If isolating the cylinders doesn't reveal anything you need to bring them to somebody who owns a pop-tester. If you feel like shipping them all the way across the country I'll test them for you, but I'm sure you can find somebody local.

The injection pumps are different between a C and a J. How different depends on the year. Usually the injectors are the same. The long block is the same, but as 82 said they have different emissions components. J engines are in trucks with a GVWR over 8500, so most 3/4 tons had C engines too.
 

82Diesel

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82, I hate to pee on your parade, but you can't spray through diesel injectors with a can of WD-40. They open at 1800 PSI. So if you're spraying through them either you've got a real serious spray can or they're stuck open.

First thing to do is loosen the injector lines one at a time while the engine is idling. Fuel will squirt out, so keep your fingers away from that part. Without fuel going to the injector the cylinder will stop firing. You should notice the change in the engine when you lose the cylinder. If not that cylinder is dead. Also have somebody watch the exhaust. If the smoke suddenly stops you've also found a problem. Then you can swap the injector with another cylinder to see if the problem moves.

If isolating the cylinders doesn't reveal anything you need to bring them to somebody who owns a pop-tester. If you feel like shipping them all the way across the country I'll test them for you, but I'm sure you can find somebody local.

The injection pumps are different between a C and a J. How different depends on the year. Usually the injectors are the same. The long block is the same, but as 82 said they have different emissions components. J engines are in trucks with a GVWR over 8500, so most 3/4 tons had C engines too.

Well, there ya go You know more than me.

I've never seen a 2WD 3/4 truck with a C-Engine unless Swapped... Because That I know of They Never came with one with Emissions I just did the trick my Great Grandpa always did. He was 99 when he passed away still farming in Iowa with 1,800 acres.

They could be stuck open, how do I tell? There Installed now on the engine and don't have the cash to get new.
 

Blue Ox

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Well, there ya go You know more than me.

I've never seen a 2WD 3/4 truck with a C-Engine unless Swapped... Because That I know of They Never came with one with Emissions

It's right there in the VIN. Either you're looking at all C6P 20s or somebody at least changed the manifold. But stating that the C engine only came in 10 series is incorrect.

I just did the trick my Great Grandpa always did. He was 99 when he passed away still farming in Iowa with 1,800 acres.

They could be stuck open, how do I tell? There Installed now on the engine and don't have the cash to get new.

Either he was working on one of those gas/diesel hybrid Internationals from 1950 which had pretty cr@ppy injectors or I'm misunderstanding where you're doing your spraying. I gave you a rundown of what you can do once the engine is running. Otherwise you're going to need a fuel injection shop to test them for you.
 

82Diesel

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It's right there in the VIN. Either you're looking at all C6P 20s or somebody at least changed the manifold. But stating that the C engine only came in 10 series is incorrect.



Either he was working on one of those gas/diesel hybrid Internationals from 1950 which had pretty cr@ppy injectors or I'm misunderstanding where you're doing your spraying. I gave you a rundown of what you can do once the engine is running. Otherwise you're going to need a fuel injection shop to test them for you.

I'll just send em!!! LOL, The engines only got 60k on it with original injectors So I should be fine since there Bosch.

I would disagree with the C Engine only came 10 Series. Unless you have proof because I sure never have seen one.
 
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82Diesel

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No reason not to fire it up and see how it runs.

And you're probably right about the Cs, Im sure you've seen every diesel truck GM made.


No not even, lol I'm like the only one in my area with a 6.2 for probably 75 miles. Grew up on 2 Stroke Detroits... I didn't even know they put a 6.2 in squares until i got mine
 

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