What is everyone's go to for converting rusty frames nice looking frames

whatever product you decide on make sure you wear a tyvec suit and disposable gloves. i will tell you that when you are laying on the floor painting upside down the product will run right down your arm. use tape where the sleeve meets the glove. also tarp your garage floor unless you don't care about permanent stains.

I used POR15 cab back. Learned the hard way though. If you paint any bolt threads with POR 15, you're gonna have a really hard time removing them later on. Cab forward and under cab I did Corroseal to prevent this. On a lumber rack, I refinished, I used Eastwoods paint over rust. It was much easier to apply than POR15.

i used walnut shells in the blaster , cant afford the glass beads, then immediately spray it with self etching primer,butt ugly green , then scotch bright scuff , then epoxy spray , 2 part mix. sprayed it out side ! even with a mask its rough to breathe. be safe

Rust Sargent.
Look it up on youtube.
It's out of Oregon ; used on the military jeeps. Pressure wash first then put on with a $2 brush. Kills the rust and dries to a black primer .

I like Por-15 Just follow the directions. It holds up really well to everything except the sun!

Elbow grease, grind or blast, and recoat with a proper finish that is durable.

Big fan of POR15

POR doesn't always adhere like it should over fresh metal so if you've blasted your frame you shoud hit it with some of their metal prep before applying the POR.
It actually works best if you just pressure wash the dirt off and descale any loose sand paint right over the rust but you do need to top coat it.
Eastwood Platinum has worked well for me so far and supposedly is OK in UV.

If you have fresh metal from what I understand the best thing to do is use an etching primer and then do your rust preventive coatings unless they specify otherwise but I think POR is really just an encapsulator so it really doesn't get rid of stuff if you have a lot of flaky scale.
There are some things that are rust converters and essentially they are just usually some form of phosphoric acid. That being said I have just been using a product form home depot that is made for concrete and metal prep made by Klean Strip and surprise, it is phosphoric acid and I think it was less than 10 bucks a gallon (mind you this is for lighter surface rust). I used it in the cab of my Jimmy and on the front fender tubs. It has peeled off all the old crappy paint as well and because I applied it throughout the cab over the window it has basically left a phosphorous coat on all the metal so it protected it from rust, so now I am at the point where all I need to do is empty it out from storing junk in it over the winter, wash it out well and dry everything down with some old beach towels and compressed air and then scuff everything down with a rotary bristle head on the death wheel and scotch pad in the really hard to reach areas and then apply some good old fashioned rustoleum industrial black paint (making sure to coat any bare area's with the etch primer). Once that has cured I am probably going to go ahead and coat it with silver or black monster liner but I may elect to go ahead and use the lizard skin heat control product. Still weight cost vs options, but I think I will go ahead and use that because it is worth doing right because I also want to put some good noise protection under the carpet as well.

rpcraft said:

dry everything down with some old beach towels and compressed air

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I tried to use compressed air to dry auto parts, but it seemed to blow out moist, rusty air! Is this because I live in the humid midwest? I have also stored air compressed in an air cylinder, could this cause rusted, moist air to ruin my otherwise thorough dry job?

Once I do my 4 link in the rear I’m going to do this too...
not looking forward to it at all. I got a gallon of the hitemp por15. Anyone use that before?

Word of caution with POR15. I sandblasted my entire frame before brushing on POR15 After about a month of sitting out in the sun the whole frame was faded and chalky. The next one i do will be coated with urethane paint. Honestly even if i didnt have access to an air compressor or spray gun i would choose to rattle can it instead of attempting the POR15 again. not saying its a garbage product but it didnt work for me so thats where im going to leave it.

Sandblasting

K10farmtruck said:

Word of caution with POR15. I sandblasted my entire frame before brushing on POR15 After about a month of sitting out in the sun the whole frame was faded and chalky. The next one i do will be coated with urethane paint. Honestly even if i didnt have access to an air compressor or spray gun i would choose to rattle can it instead of attempting the POR15 again. not saying its a garbage product but it didnt work for me so thats where im going to leave it.

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FWIW POR 15 is for rust conversion and not painting bare cleaned metal. Not sure why people try to use it that way.. if you cleaned it down to bare metal you should put on a good etching primer and then use whatever black paint goes well with a single stage coverage, like the semi gloss paint they sell at Tractor supply for farm implements. It's super durable too.

eskimomann209 said:

Once I do my 4 link in the rear I’m going to do this too...
not looking forward to it at all. I got a gallon of the hitemp por15. Anyone use that before?

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POR 15 is for rust conversion. Stop using it as chassis paint unless you want to be repainting it a short time later.

Paint it on rust if you have rust to convert it and then once it has put something better on it for protection and coverage.

Otherwise if you are going to clean metal use etch primer and a single stage chassis paint.