How much fender trimming for 35s ?

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BigBlackChevy77

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Hey all, I have put off putting my 4in lift on because I want to wait until I do my 1 ton swap to tear it apart. I also dont exactly have the room to do the lift right now. I bought some 35" super swamper ltbs. They are 35x12.50x15 and they will be going on the original 15x8 wheels. I know usually you need a 6in lift for 35s with no rubbing and 4 is getting close, but I want to keep the COG as low as possible with 40s on a 4in lift being my future plans when i have tons on, so I'll need to trim anyways. Dies anyone have a good picture of 35s on stock suspension with trimming ? I have looked everywhere I could and best I found was a guy on pirate with 38.5s on stock suspension only trimming. Any other info would be very appreciated
 
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6" lift will 35s will still rub when twisted up. What helps is moving the front axle forward. Use a Zero-rate 1" lift block from ORD or DIY4x4 for that extra inch up and forward. Sorry I can't advise how much to trim, but if you do move the axle forward most of the metal can come off the front lower 'nose' of the fender. Some would still need to be trimmed behind the front wheels. At least you have stock backspaced 8" wheels... any more width makes tire rub worse.
 
BigBlackChevy77

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shiftpro said:
6" lift will 35s will still rub when twisted up. What helps is moving the front axle forward. Use a Zero-rate 1" lift block from ORD or DIY4x4 for that extra inch up and forward. Sorry I can't advise how much to trim, but if you do move the axle forward most of the metal can come off the front lower 'nose' of the fender. Some would still need to be trimmed behind the front wheels. At least you have stock backspaced 8" wheels... any more width makes tire rub worse.
Click to expand...
Yea I was thinking of getting a zero rate when I do my suspension lift
 
77 K20

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What type of 4" lift in your future? A stiffer one like Rough Country or a softer one like Tuff Country EZ ride? Or custom real flexy springs? Going to run with the sway bar or without? Any/all of these will affect how much you will rub. A stiff Rough Country with a sway bar probably won't be too bad.

Would the trails/roads you will be using twist the truck up? Or is this just for pavement, fire roads, and mud?

There isn't much room in the front wheel well for a 35" tire (315/75 tire shown here):

You must be registered for see images attach


With some rust issues I've trimmed a bit on the bottom edges on the fender. (I have no sway bar, ORD 4" custom springs, proper bump stops) And at the time the tire would rub on the fender liner on the backside when turning. At least this rubbing doesn't cut the tire. Since then I've added zero rates. I haven't seen how much (if any) it will rub.

And when using the zero rate I didn't shift the axle- I'm still centered.

So with a stock suspension with a sway bar I'd think you'd have to trim the back of the wheel well all the way back to the fender liner. On the front lower edge of the wheel well you'd have to remove the "horn"- the whole area that curves inward.
 
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BigBlackChevy77

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77 K20 said:
What type of 4" lift in your future? A stiffer one like Rough Country or a softer one like Tuff Country EZ ride? Or custom real flexy springs? Going to run with the sway bar or without? Any/all of these will affect how much you will rub. A stiff Rough Country with a sway bar probably won't be too bad.

Would the trails/roads you will be using twist the truck up? Or is this just for pavement, fire roads, and mud?

There isn't much room in the front wheel well for a 35" tire (315/75 tire shown here):

You must be registered for see images attach


With some rust issues I've trimmed a bit on the bottom edges on the fender. (I have no sway bar, ORD 4" custom springs, proper bump stops) And at the time the tire would rub on the fender liner on the backside when turning. At least this rubbing doesn't cut the tire. Since then I've added zero rates. I haven't seen how much (if any) it will rub.

And when using the zero rate I didn't shift the axle- I'm still centered.

So with a stock suspension with a sway bar I'd think you'd have to trim the back of the wheel well all the way back to the fender liner. On the front lower edge of the wheel well you'd have to remove the "horn"- the whole area that curves inward.
Click to expand...
Lift is unknown got it off a guy getting rid of a frame he bought. Mostly going to be normal midwest trails, lots of mud, some water and unmaintained township roads. I planned on cutting almost to the vertical side marker light on my 77 up about 3 inches and back a few inches. It fit 33x12.50 ats fine no rubbing on road but I dont think they are a true 33. Keeping away bar for now at least
 
BigBlackChevy77

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Does anyone know how well taking the radius of the tire with a tape measure and marking it and trimming where the tape marker touches ( probably add an inch or so ) ?
 
77 K20

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BigBlackChevy77 said:
Does anyone know how well taking the radius of the tire with a tape measure and marking it and trimming where the tape marker touches ( probably add an inch or so ) ?
Click to expand...


On other trucks I've done some rough guessing/figuring when changing tire size or changing wheel offsets was to measure what you have and add inches.
Meaning: you have 33x12.50 tires now. Crank the wheel all the way to one direction. Measure out from the edge of the tread near the sidewall 1"-2" to the wheel well/fender liner and that will give you an idea (if you are thinking 35s). Turn your wheel the other way and check the other side.
Your tires might be a "small" 33". Or your tires are worn making an even smaller tire.... Then park in a ditch or somewhere where it is twisted up a bit. Repeat measurements. This will give you an idea where rubbing will occur.
Or instead of measuring you could grab a small chunk of 2x4 (which is 1.5" thick) and put that on top of your existing tread. Look at the clearance.
Then keep in mind when hitting a bump the leaf spring flattens out and shifts a bit to the rear. This will then move the tire back into the wheel well more.
 
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77 K20 said:
What type of 4" lift in your future? A stiffer one like Rough Country or a softer one like Tuff Country EZ ride? Or custom real flexy springs? Going to run with the sway bar or without? Any/all of these will affect how much you will rub. A stiff Rough Country with a sway bar probably won't be too bad.

Would the trails/roads you will be using twist the truck up? Or is this just for pavement, fire roads, and mud?

There isn't much room in the front wheel well for a 35" tire (315/75 tire shown here):

You must be registered for see images attach


With some rust issues I've trimmed a bit on the bottom edges on the fender. (I have no sway bar, ORD 4" custom springs, proper bump stops) And at the time the tire would rub on the fender liner on the backside when turning. At least this rubbing doesn't cut the tire. Since then I've added zero rates. I haven't seen how much (if any) it will rub.

And when using the zero rate I didn't shift the axle- I'm still centered.

So with a stock suspension with a sway bar I'd think you'd have to trim the back of the wheel well all the way back to the fender liner. On the front lower edge of the wheel well you'd have to remove the "horn"- the whole area that curves inward.
Click to expand...


Good post Mike, but the photo could be misunderstood.... "see a 35" WILL fit!" As we know, until the steering wheel gets turned.

Also note that big knobby mud tires have considerably less 'room' than all-terrains for example. And they do much more damage.
 
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Well shoot. I just noticed your location, lol. What unmaintained township roads are around here? Or are you talking about the SE Ohio area?
 
BigBlackChevy77

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bucket said:
Well shoot. I just noticed your location, lol. What unmaintained township roads are around here? Or are you talking about the SE Ohio area?
Click to expand...
The tar hollow area if you Google it and look on those jeepers forums you can find maps for it and everything
 
BigBlackChevy77

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shiftpro said:
Good post Mike, but the photo could be misunderstood.... "see a 35" WILL fit!" As we know, until the steering wheel gets turned.

Also note that big knobby mud tires have considerably less 'room' than all-terrains for example. And they do much more damage.
Click to expand...
Yea I did some measurements after I trimmed and by height and width I have around 37ish inches overall have yet to turn the wheel and check
 
BigBlackChevy77

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Ok and the measurements I have after trimming are as follows

Old Tire Size: 31 inches from floor to top of tread

Height from top of old tire to cut fender: 7.25 inches

Height: 38 inches

Width (horizontally): 35.5 inches from bottom of sidemarker light and 38 inches a few inches below that, near top of my current tire

With wheel at full lock

Front lip: 3.5 inches

Rear lip: 6 inches

So I need to trim the lips more but I'm thinking they can fit
 
BigBlackChevy77

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Update:

They fit in the front after trimming with room to spare no rubbing on road even at full lock. Rear needed no trimming.
 
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