Tri Y action!!

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Obwonkonobe

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I scored a pretty good set of sbc Tri Y headers this weekend, only 90 bucks. I wasn’t planning on buying used headers but the cheap new ones I’ve been eying were twice as much, so I jumped on it. They aren’t dented or clearanced, and are just a bit scratched and dirty, but it’s got some pretty beefy unwarped sealing surfaces so they should be pretty solid. Got them thrown in the truck and I’m just running open header until I get a chance to redo my exhaust flanges. My quiestion is, does any one know what material these may be? Or brand? I want to say stainless but I’m no expert, and they have some weird patches, thanks

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Snoots

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Be sure to stuff a rag in the end when your run is done so that cold air won't run back in and warp the valves.
 

Obwonkonobe

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Be sure to stuff a rag in the end when your run is done so that cold air won't run back in and warp the valves.
Oh didn’t think of that, if I only did it a couple times would it be too much of a risk? It’s 80 out today and I had to go to school and back, about a 10 minute drive
 

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Probably not too much of a risk. But I wouldn't risk it if it were a hunert degrees out. That's just me.
 

Smindustries

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My quiestion is, does any one know what material these may be? Or brand? I want to say stainless but I’m no expert, and they have some weird patches, thanks

Step 1 is to get a magnet. Stainless is often referred to as ‘non-ferrous’ meaning it has no ferrum (iron). That’s not quite true because stainless has varying amounts of iron depending upon the alloy. The amount of iron determines how much less it stains (rusts).

If a magnet sticks to the straight pipe sections, you can stop. It’s mild steel.

If it doesn’t stick to the straights, it’s a stainless alloy. If it doesn’t stick to the straights, but sticks to the bends, it’s probably 409. If it doesn’t stick anywhere, it’s probably 304.

Be sure to check the flanges and welds. Many low-cost manufacturers advertise their stuff as stainless, but use 409 with mild steel flanges and filler wire.
 

smoothandlow84

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I was also think Doug Thorley
 

Obwonkonobe

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I can feel that it’s flowing more air, mostly because it runs a little leaner now. I’ve really got to get an afr gauge on the truck and tune the stock 1406 eddy I've got
 

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I love the sound of open headers in the morning...
 

Obwonkonobe

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Does anyone know why I may loose power after putting headers in? My exhaust sounds less mean too, less of a chop now, but granted my cam is stock. I know it’s problably leaner now but will it really need that much more fuel to compensate? And eventually I’ll bump my compression with vortec heads and add a cam, Will that help me get some torque and tone back?
 

Obwonkonobe

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Some pics of them in after hours of fiddling

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Obwonkonobe

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Step 1 is to get a magnet. Stainless is often referred to as ‘non-ferrous’ meaning it has no ferrum (iron). That’s not quite true because stainless has varying amounts of iron depending upon the alloy. The amount of iron determines how much less it stains (rusts).

If a magnet sticks to the straight pipe sections, you can stop. It’s mild steel.

If it doesn’t stick to the straights, it’s a stainless alloy. If it doesn’t stick to the straights, but sticks to the bends, it’s probably 409. If it doesn’t stick anywhere, it’s probably 304.

Be sure to check the flanges and welds. Many low-cost manufacturers advertise their stuff as stainless, but use 409 with mild steel flanges and filler wire.

Aaaaand it’s mild steel, but I think it’s got some kind of ceramic coating or something because it’s shiny in some places with minimal rust, thanks for the tip
 

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