Electronic fuel pump wiring

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DW73Chevy

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Since you can’t just replace an engine without upgrading, I have gotten myself into the middle of a much bigger project than I originally planned with my ‘73 C10, and part of that project includes upgrading the fuel delivery system, as my new engine will consume more fuel than a mechanical fuel pump can deliver. That being said, I would like think I’m fairly competent as far as wrenching goes, but wiring is not my strong suit. Can anyone make a suggestion on the best place to pull power from for the new, in-line, electric fuel pump (Aero A1000 or similar)? I know it has to be switched, but again, wiring is not my strong suit and I’d like to do this right the first time. I’m learning as I go and taking my time to research each system as I upgrade it, so please be kind!
 

Sad Sack

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An open IGN terminal on fuse block with an in-line fuse rated for the pump.
 

Ricko1966

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The best bet is run a hot wire from the battery to a common 4 prong relay. The relay you can get from any auto parts store under 10.00. It will have numbers on the bottom. 30,85,86,and 87. Run 30 to a fuse and to the battery. Hook 85 to the alternator exciter wire. I belive it is terminal 1 and brown. Hook 86 to a good ground. Run 87 as power to the fuel pump,this will get you a solid clean power supply to your pump. I will double check on the exciter wire color and position. But if you don't see an edit correcting it I listed it correctly to begin with 99.9 percent sure that's right,but it is from memory so I'll double check. Be sure your pump has a good ground also,wouldn't be a bad Idea to run a clean ground from battery to the pump as well.
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Ricko1966

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Just looked at the Aero a1000 pump. That pump I would definitely run a clean power wire and a clean ground wire all the way to the battery positive and negative leads. The circuit I told you how to wire will have no prime circuit. What this means is if the carbureator runs dry you will have to prime the carb to start. If it's injected and doesn't hold fuel pressure again it will take a shot of fuel or starting fluid to start. We can add a prime circuit easy. I can thinknof 3 ways off the top of my head,if a prime circuit is going to be necessary LMK I'll post some.
 

DW73Chevy

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Thanks for all the good info so quickly, I will take all of this into consideration when laying out my wiring and will reply to this thread with any questions when the time comes. Thanks again!
 

DW73Chevy

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Just looked at the Aero a1000 pump. That pump I would definitely run a clean power wire and a clean ground wire all the way to the battery positive and negative leads. The circuit I told you how to wire will have no prime circuit. What this means is if the carbureator runs dry you will have to prime the carb to start. If it's injected and doesn't hold fuel pressure again it will take a shot of fuel or starting fluid to start. We can add a prime circuit easy. I can thinknof 3 ways off the top of my head,if a prime circuit is going to be necessary LMK I'll post some.
Can you go ahead and give me the best wiring for the pump to be able to prime? I’m ramping up work on the truck again now that weather has warmed up, as my garage was not suitable for winter work.

Thank you
 

Ricko1966

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If you want.to add a prime circuit to the pump relay circuit in post 3. Add a wire from terminal r on your starter solenoid to terminal 87 on the relay which is also where your pump power is. When you crank, the starter solenoid will energize your pump for prime. You could put a momentary contact switch in the cab. Run 1 lead to 12V+ the other side to pump power at tge relay. When you push the button the pump will prime.
 

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hogdaddy

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I would strongly urge you to use Aeromotive's wiring harness. Follow the instructions.
The 16 gauge trigger wire needs to go to an ignition/on circuit inside the cab
 

Ricko1966

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^^^ there is no way I'd use that harness it is ridiculously overpriced and is setup so the pump runs any time the key is on. I can duplicate that exact setup for 25.00 or less. I can also tell you how to wire it just like theirs all you have to do is relocate the wire I told you to run to the alternator exciter to a keyed 12volt source and instead of using a fuse use a self resetting breaker. That would be an exact duplicate of theirs,no prime circuit needed but also no pump shut off in an accident etc.
 
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Ricko1966

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In their instructions step 4 use # 85 on the 10.00. relay.
Their #7 use number terminal 86 on the relay.
Their#8 use terminal 87 on the relay.
Their Circuit breaker is Battery or alternator positive to terminal 30 on the relay.
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Broken85

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You definitely want the safety switch. This is a little more cost effective


Here is my pump wiring diagram using one or two relays.
 

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hogdaddy

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^^^ there is no way I'd use that harness it is ridiculously overpriced and is setup so the pump runs any time the key is on. I can duplicate that exact setup for 25.00 or less. I can also tell you how to wire it just like theirs all you have to do is relocate the wire I told you to run to the alternator exciter to a keyed 12volt source and instead of using a fuse use a self resetting breaker. That would be an exact duplicate of theirs,no prime circuit needed but also no pump shut off in an accident etc.
I used it on mine and while you can do it cheaper, this was nicely made and worth it to me.
It would be simple to put a switch inline if you desired.

Besides, this is for the OP who asked for some help with electrical and he is free to use whatever setup desired.
 
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Ricko1966

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I used it on mine and while you can do it cheaper, this was nicely made and worth it to me.
It would be simple to put a switch inline if you desired.

Besides, this is for the OP who asked for some help with electrical and he is free to use whatever setup desired.
And all I told him was that setup doesn't shut off if the engine dies and he can wire it himself,exactly the same as that setup for $25.00 saving him $160.00. O.P.
This relay will work fine if you chose to make your own wires. If not painless also makes a prewired kit,and I just discovered it tonight by accident and for the money it's a pretty good deal. I'd still prefer mine to shut off in case of an accident etc. Which was the first diaghram I posted.
 

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DW73Chevy

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Thank you all for the information, this is a lot to sift through, but I have a good starting point now. Much appreciated
 

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