Wheel bearing replacement.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Irishman999

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
6,989
Reaction score
202
Location
Safford Arizona
First Name
Jason
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K-1500 High Sierra
Engine Size
305
Nice job. I hope you dont mind a little constructive critism though.

Theres an easier way of removing the seal WITH OUT a seal puller, infact the method I use doesnt even tear the seal up so if you choose to reuse it you could,

When you take the spanner nuts off slide the outer wheel bearing off, THEN reinstall 1 of the spanner nuts, then grab ahold of the rotor with both hands and pull it off like using a slide hammer, this will remove the inner bearing AND seal,

I completely forgot about that trick! Im not 100% sure if the spanner nuts will go through the center of the hub though.

Nice write up, only thing I see is you need IMG tags on the first pic in post #6, as well as mention installing the outer bearing before the spanner nuts. Otherwise great job! (I end up editing posts a million times when I do a write up lol)

One bearing should be enough haha.
 

oneluckypops

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Posts
2,210
Reaction score
90
Location
Sedalia, Mo.
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
85
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
5.7 Fuel injected Vortec/ 4L80E
I completely forgot about that trick! Im not 100% sure if the spanner nuts will go through the center of the hub though.



One bearing should be enough haha.

Thats how i do the seals on ALL servicable wheel bearings.
 

1low4x4

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Posts
2,403
Reaction score
708
Location
Texas
First Name
Nick
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7
Good write-up, I'm about to change bearings and races on mine today. Wanted to research the four wheel drive as it's different than my C 20 was.

One question, I read another write up on the same topic on another site before yours and it didn't mention any of the spanner nuts or the special socket, what he mentioned was locking the hub then removing the bolts and it all comes out as one piece. Any input on that? Sounds easier but I wanted to get the full scoop
 

firebane

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2014
Posts
1,732
Reaction score
29
Location
Calgary, AB
First Name
Curtis
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Good write-up, I'm about to change bearings and races on mine today. Wanted to research the four wheel drive as it's different than my C 20 was.

One question, I read another write up on the same topic on another site before yours and it didn't mention any of the spanner nuts or the special socket, what he mentioned was locking the hub then removing the bolts and it all comes out as one piece. Any input on that? Sounds easier but I wanted to get the full scoop

You'll need the 4 point socket. Once locking hubs are out there will be 1 nut followed by a washer with holes followed by another nut.

You'll need to remove the brake caliper for the hub to come out but once that is done you undo the 2 nuts and the entire hub assembly comes off including the rotor.

You can't keep the locking hubs attached due to the snap rings in place attached to the axle shaft.
 

1low4x4

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Posts
2,403
Reaction score
708
Location
Texas
First Name
Nick
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7
that's not what I meant. I will post the link to that article he wrote
 

Don5

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Posts
1,136
Reaction score
72
Location
West Virginia
First Name
Don
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
k15
Engine Size
350
Nick it is exactly like Curtis says. You remove the outer hub bolts with a allen wrench and then remove the two snap rings inside. The hub will slide out exposing the spindle nut. You will need a 4 prong socket to turn these nuts. There are two of them with a washer in between them. The inner part of the lockout hub will not come out until the snap rings are removed. It will not matter if the hub is locked in or not. I hope this helps.
 

firebane

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2014
Posts
1,732
Reaction score
29
Location
Calgary, AB
First Name
Curtis
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Good write-up, I'm about to change bearings and races on mine today. Wanted to research the four wheel drive as it's different than my C 20 was.

One question, I read another write up on the same topic on another site before yours and it didn't mention any of the spanner nuts or the special socket, what he mentioned was locking the hub then removing the bolts and it all comes out as one piece. Any input on that? Sounds easier but I wanted to get the full scoop

I know what you mean but you can't pull the hub if the locking mechanism is in place because of the 2 snap rings behind it.

In theory someone may thing it could work but the second you try to pull the hub you will hit two snap rings that will stop you dead in your tracks.

If you have the article then perhaps we can decipher it.
 

highdesertrange

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Posts
1,066
Reaction score
211
Location
kalifornia
First Name
mike
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
k30
Engine Size
454
nice write up and Timkin bearings to boot. good choice, nice job. highdesertranger
 

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
49
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
Just a side note: Wheel bearings should be cleaned and repacked every year or two depending on how many miles are put on them each year. They can last for ever if repacked routinely.
 

MadOgre

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Posts
4,090
Reaction score
49
Location
NA
First Name
NA
Truck Year
NA
Truck Model
NA
Engine Size
NA
FYI the proper way to adjust pre load (according to the shop manual) is to tighten to 50 ft lbs while spinning the wheel and then back off 90* then tighten to 35 ft lbs while spinning the wheel then back off 3/8 of a turn. Then tighten just enough to line up with the closest hole on the lock ring.

The outer lock nut should be torqued to 160-205 ft lbs

If you have Monroe automatic hubs then its 70 and 35 ft lbs.

This is very important so do it by the book! Peoples lives may depend on it! Maybe yours!
 

Camar068

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2014
Posts
4,122
Reaction score
2,960
Location
Kentucky
First Name
David
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
Engine Size
10 yrs Air Force
FYI the proper way to adjust pre load (according to the shop manual) is to tighten to 50 ft lbs while spinning the wheel and then back off 90* then tighten to 35 ft lbs while spinning the wheel then back off 3/8 of a turn. Then tighten just enough to line up with the closest hole on the lock ring.

The outer lock nut should be torqued to 160-205 ft lbs

If you have Monroe automatic hubs then its 70 and 35 ft lbs.

This is very important so do it by the book! Peoples lives may depend on it! Maybe yours!

Thanks, wish I'd found it sooner.
 

LateOnTheBrakes

5.3-Swapped 86 CUCV
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Posts
463
Reaction score
123
Location
Virginia
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
5.3
FYI the proper way to adjust pre load (according to the shop manual) is to tighten to 50 ft lbs while spinning the wheel and then back off 90* then tighten to 35 ft lbs while spinning the wheel then back off 3/8 of a turn. Then tighten just enough to line up with the closest hole on the lock ring.

The outer lock nut should be torqued to 160-205 ft lbs

If you have Monroe automatic hubs then its 70 and 35 ft lbs.

This is very important so do it by the book! Peoples lives may depend on it! Maybe yours!

Where did you pull this info? The Chevy service manual? The Dana/Spicer service manual says torque inner nut to 50 lbft, back off up to 90 degree (I assume less depending on the how much bearing drag you want), and torque the outside nut to 50 lbft minimum. They don't distinguish between the assembly procedure for a drum brake vs the disc brake from what I can tell.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
9,121
Reaction score
6,038
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
Is the inner/outer race something that could be bad, but not a bearing?

I know what a race is, but i guess would there ever be something to indicate it has a problem?
 

LateOnTheBrakes

5.3-Swapped 86 CUCV
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Posts
463
Reaction score
123
Location
Virginia
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
5.3
Is the inner/outer race something that could be bad, but not a bearing?

I know what a race is, but i guess would there ever be something to indicate it has a problem?
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Forum statistics

Threads
41,850
Posts
903,456
Members
33,362
Latest member
Dhatch84
Top