Vin tag on the frame

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miky2295

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Just want to know if the frame is Vin tagged. Found short bed truck with no titles for 500$ and need the frame. Would like to know if and where it's marked
 

Craig 85

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It's not a complete VIN on the frame. Some people have found the VIN on the top of the right frame rail under the cab. My K30's is actually on the top right frame rail, but about center of the fuel tank.
 

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It will be stamped into the top of the passenger side frame rail. I've read a couple of different opinions on where they show up, anywhere from just behind the forward cab mount to towards the forward rear spring hanger. the vin on my D30 is in the latter location. found it when I pulled the box recently.
 

HotRodPC

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Yep, no tag just stamped. It's like the last 8 digits or so. I've learned they're in different locations depending on the model but all seem to be on the top of the right frame rail. Long bed half and 3/4 tons seem to all be about where the passenger plants their ass under the cab. I think I seen someone mention the short beds are between the rear wheel and back of the cab and as Craig mentioned the 1 tons are about in the center of the fuel tank. Again, all seem to be stamped on top of the passenger side frame rail.

I can't find his post now but a member who worked for years at GM building trucks explained how the VIN's got stamped as they came down the assembly line.
 

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Yep, no tag just stamped. It's like the last 8 digits or so. I've learned they're in different locations depending on the model but all seem to be on the top of the right frame rail. Long bed half and 3/4 tons seem to all be about where the passenger plants their ass under the cab. I think I seen someone mention the short beds are between the rear wheel and back of the cab and as Craig mentioned the 1 tons are about in the center of the fuel tank. Again, all seem to be stamped on top of the passenger side frame rail.

I can't find his post now but a member who worked for years at GM building trucks explained how the VIN's got stamped as they came down the assembly line.

I was thinking the same thing. took a minute to find. The post I think you're referring to is at the end of this thread.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/hidden-vin-locations.9253/#post-359815
 

HotRodPC

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shiftpro

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Up here in the GWN, it's not a big issue. Our trucks are not worth anything as far as Black book prices and 30 yrs old no one really looks or worries about it.
Changing cabs is common in the rust belt and removing the riveted VIN plate drivers side under the windshield is common.
 

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It's not a big deal in OK either so long as no waves are made about something being stolen. Go switching license plates to keep from paying tags is much more of a legal problem. Removing a VIN tag would be a problem if it's noticeable. So do it neatly and make it look legit and you'll never have a problem here.
 

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depending on how the law in your area reads, there's seems to be some grey area in regards to restorations too. Most of the laws read that you can't swap them for illegal purposes, but they don't really cover the restoration end. I mean hell, what do you do if the dash is mangled and need to swap it out?
 

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depending on how the law in your area reads, there's seems to be some grey area in regards to restorations too. Most of the laws read that you can't swap them for illegal purposes, but they don't really cover the restoration end. I mean hell, what do you do if the dash is mangled and need to swap it out?
For sure... It's different when you start playing with VIN numbers on 2015 BMWs or whatever... expensive new cars, the real target for shenanigans.
 

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Still... PYA...
 

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Yep, every state matters. In OK, the politically correct legal way to do swaps is to take both title to frame and the title to cab to the Tax Commission, they destroy or junk those VIN's and reissue a state issued VIN #. Now who wants that? NOOOOOOOOO. It would have nothing to do with the year, make, model, where built, engine size nothing. So I carefully removed a VIN tag and kept the OEM rivets part of it, opened up the rivet holes just a **** hair and glued it back down. Can't even tell. Then I did scrap the bad cab and frame to match it. So in my case, it's all legit but the state wouldn't be happy about it. Swapping a cab shouldn't be any different than swapping a hood or fender. I doubt I'd ever have a problem since the VIN tag matches the frame VIN.
 

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Hell, you can get the star rivets off the electronic bay trading company. I ordered a pair when I was thinking of swapping the dash from the '87 into the '84.
 

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Hell, you can get the star rivets off the electronic bay trading company. I ordered a pair when I was thinking of swapping the dash from the '87 into the '84.
You're talking about the Rosette Rivets I do believe but even then you need to be careful. Some vehicles used different rivets for different years. And those usually aren't cheap. IIRC, like $25 a set or so. Been awhile since I looked.
 

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You're talking about the Rosette Rivets I do believe but even then you need to be careful. Some vehicles used different rivets for different years. And those usually aren't cheap. IIRC, like $25 a set or so. Been awhile since I looked.

Yep, these were pretty 'spensive for 2 freakin' rivets, lol, but they were supposed to be NOS. Seems like I checked them against the ones in the truck and they matched, but it 's kinda a moot point now, as I decided to just weld up all the screw holes and button holes that were drilled into #4's original dash.
 

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