True Trac or Spool or Detroit Locker

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Macdaddy11

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:yawn:

All depends on tire size and how your launching it. If your gonna upgrade your carrier it only makes sense to go 30 spline and swap out the axles. Either with 12 bolt axles from an earlier model which will be the same length with in a few thou or 89-91 Burb or Blazer axles. But if they come from an 89 make sure you count the splines because 89 was a half year. Pic in order left to right. 28 spline 87 8.5,30 spline 91 Burb 8.5,30 spline 77 12 bolt the Burb axle looks to be a bit beefier.

Thank you very much sir, that will be what I do then.
 

SkinnyG

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I weighed all the pros and cons of each type of limited slip and went with the TrueTrac.

I absolutely love it.

One of the main reasons I chose it, is because my truck is my daily driver, and I wanted something safe and predictable on an icy road in winter. A TrueTrac will act like an open diff when one wheel has ZERO traction. I felt this would be more predictable on sheer ice rather than slide sideways off into the ditch.

Having gone through two Canadian winters with it now, I love it. The truck is easily steerable with throttle in winter, and just plain has grip. In really bad conditions I generally average "forwards," but the back is so much more predictable and playful with the TrueTrac.

I get NOWHERE NEAR the wheelspin in the dry that I used to. The traction is phenominal.

The diff is also very quiet and smooth. You don't notice it. It doesn't push under throttle, or come around when you lift. I would put the TrueTrac in all my vehicles.

End of sales pitch. Happy camper.
 

Macdaddy11

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So guys went with a true trac. But I realized this rear end has 3.08. Seems pretty gutless right now and that's with 450hp at the crank. Think bumping up to a 3.73 will make a big difference ?

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SkinnyG

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I went from 3.07 to 3.73 at the same time as doing the diff.

A 450hp engine will be much happier with deeper gears, and if you're running a high-stall converter for the cam in that engine, deeper gears will be MUCH better.

I wouldn't say I felt an astounding difference in performance between the two gears. I'd almost go 4:11 or more, but then I'd need an overdrive on the highway for sure.
 

Macdaddy11

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I went from 3.07 to 3.73 at the same time as doing the diff.

A 450hp engine will be much happier with deeper gears, and if you're running a high-stall converter for the cam in that engine, deeper gears will be MUCH better.

I wouldn't say I felt an astounding difference in performance between the two gears. I'd almost go 4:11 or more, but then I'd need an overdrive on the highway for sure.
I have a 700r4 so it has the overdrive. Maybe I'll go to a 4.10. It just seems like it wants to shift too early and when the motor is in a lower rpm it seems to be bogging down kinda

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74 Shortbed

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Gotta remember that the 700R has a wide spread between 1st and 2nd gear, so if it shifts early it would pull the motor down some especially with a higher rear end gear..
 

Macdaddy11

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Gotta remember that the 700R has a wide spread between 1st and 2nd gear, so if it shifts early it would pull the motor down some especially with a higher rear end gear..
I did not know that, wish I had a sm465 in this thing instead. That would be a little more fun to drive!

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75Monza

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I run a TrueTrac in one of my hyped up Monza's with a Moser 33 spline 12 bolt, thing is awesome! It is very quite, although coasting down the road under no torque there is a slight noise that goes away soon as you load it again. When I ran on spray, I was putting about 670hp to the tires, never grenaded it. Before Eaton merged with Detroit, there were a few issues with the bolts coming out and rubbing. The theory of operation is, the TrueTrac side gears are interconnected by pinion gears, which allow one wheel to slow down or speed up as required. TrueTrac gears have spiral teeth, and the pinions are mounted in pockets in the case. If one wheel begins to lose traction, the pinions separate slightly from the side gear, and wedge in the pockets. As input torque increases, the separating force increases, thus slowing or stopping the spinout. This allows torque to be distributed to the wheel with the best footing.
When I apply large pedal in a corner and break the tires loose, I still leave two black marks, not a single. And turning definitely doesn't chew up my tires like a locker did.
 

74 Shortbed

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I did not know that, wish I had a sm465 in this thing instead. That would be a little more fun to drive!

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If it shifts too early you can always adjust the cable a bit and raise the shift point, that would help some.
 

Macdaddy11

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If it shifts too early you can always adjust the cable a bit and raise the shift point, that would help some.
I will have to look into doing that possibly, full throttle as soon as it down gears seems like it loses all it's power. Expected a but more our of it but I know gears will help a lot. It's also a stock 700r4 so I might be expecting more then i should out of it.

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Macdaddy11

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I run a TrueTrac in one of my hyped up Monza's with a Moser 33 spline 12 bolt, thing is awesome! It is very quite, although coasting down the road under no torque there is a slight noise that goes away soon as you load it again. When I ran on spray, I was putting about 670hp to the tires, never grenaded it. Before Eaton merged with Detroit, there were a few issues with the bolts coming out and rubbing. The theory of operation is, the TrueTrac side gears are interconnected by pinion gears, which allow one wheel to slow down or speed up as required. TrueTrac gears have spiral teeth, and the pinions are mounted in pockets in the case. If one wheel begins to lose traction, the pinions separate slightly from the side gear, and wedge in the pockets. As input torque increases, the separating force increases, thus slowing or stopping the spinout. This allows torque to be distributed to the wheel with the best footing.
When I apply large pedal in a corner and break the tires loose, I still leave two black marks, not a single. And turning definitely doesn't chew up my tires like a locker did.
Awesome thank you, I was wondering how it actually worked

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75Monza

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Changing gears would be the way to go. In my 71 GMC I went from 3.08's to 3.73 posi, almost night and day difference. I currently have a TH350 in it, driving down the highway definitely wish I had an overdrive.
 

Macdaddy11

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Changing gears would be the way to go. In my 71 GMC I went from 3.08's to 3.73 posi, almost night and day difference. I currently have a TH350 in it, driving down the highway definitely wish I had an overdrive.
Yea I have overdrive so just deciding if I should go 4.10 or 3.73

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75Monza

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Depends partly on tire size. I'm running 295/50/15's on mine with a 3500 stall and it moves the lead sled pretty damn good. I need a set of ladder bars on it to get better traction and less spring wrap, not planning on any more than that though. With your 700r4, having the 3.06 first gear gets you off the line better than say my th350, if you build it like a TCI street fighter and have maybe around a 2800-3000 stall depending on your cam, that would give you a pretty good launch I would think. The only downside is making sure to keep the TV cable adjusted proper.
 

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