The whole drop issue is too much! All the options! Arrrrgghhhhh!

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cptmoney

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The entire concept of how much and by what means to drop is almost overwhelming to me...help me make heads or tails of all of this mess!

I'm getting ready to make room for a '77 C10 that will be our shop truck/ol' dog - but in order to accept that role, she's gotta be COOL! Thus - the drop.

I'm looking for something in the 3/5 - 4/6 range....but holy smokes. The questions and options just keep bubbling up. I've already invested HOURS of screen time trying to figure this out, but I'm worse off than when I began, feels like.

Cut a coil or two? That will help the front - but what do you in the rear? Yank a leaf? Swap the spring hangers? Now the trucks can't haul a larger motorbike or a big block over to the machine shop. That, and the wheel hop will be terrible when I'm out "delivering" the goods - with the complimentary burnout! Haha! I don't want to have to add traction bars to the mix as well if I don't have to. They're another $150 bucks that I could have used to do the drop more adequately.

Drop the spindles? Sounds like the more appropriate (and much safer) way to handle the front - but now you can't use your OEM steelies without grinding away at control arms or brake mounts or sway bars. Head the rear, and now I need a flip kit, which means we'll be riding on the bumpstops, which makes the truck ride like complete crap. And I'll be honest - we're not going to be driving the ol' gal cross-country....but I don't want to regret having to take the shop truck - I want to find an excuse to take the shop truck! Do the flip kit, add some shackles, and now you've gone and monkeyed up the driveshaft geometry. Move the springs back, pray you get the pinion angle right, shim it/tack it, and cross your fingers? Sheesh. Crazy.

I'm sure not interested in cutting C-notches in my frame at this point. At some point, maybe - but for now I just want to bring her down a bit, pump gas, and get out there killing bugs. With the occasional burnout! Haha.

Can this be done? You guys all have it figured out, so I know it's too far from my grasp.....but I'm feeling a little underprepared to handle it all.

Maybe I shoud start with something a little smaller - say a 2/4 drop. Might be cheaper, easier, and take technical prowess to pull off.

So - I guess that's a long whine/complain/plea to lead up to this: what can I do to -

1) drop this truck down (I'm thinking that a 3/5 is pretty rocking and from what I've read a decent amount for a daily driver),

2) for a reasonable amount (I'd love to be under $350ish for this project - bc the poor truck needs some lovin' elsewhere as well!),

3) won't take a PhD in mechanical engineering to orchestrate from beginning to end. No welding would be a HUGE bonus for me, but I can deal with that if I need to (it's amazing what cold beer will buy you these days!),

4) would accommodate OEM 15" steelies. Whether rally or plain steel wheels, we'll be using those most likely, and finally,

5) be able to do in a short period of time. Don't want this to take a month. A long Saturday or even a weekend would be ideal. Once I start in on the drop, I don't want it to be stuck in the garage for a few weeks while I sort out the mess.

Phew. It evens takes a lot to explain it all. Haha.

Anyhow, thanks in advance for helping me clarify my options. My garage buddies say I get "paralysis by analysis" sometimes....and this is a perfect example! I may just need to jump in and get in motion. Doing SOMETHING is better than nothing. The good news is the truck won't be here for a another week or two, so I have a little time to make a plan and get some parts on order.

I'll wait patiently for your sage wisdom......bring it on!
 

74 Shortbed

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There's different ways of doing it but this is one way, the way I got the truck. 3" drop springs in front and a flip kit in the back no notch needed, if you're gonna haul heavy stuff I would add bags on the back, this is with a 27" tall tire..

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cptmoney

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Correct me if I'm wrong....but it's looking like a 2/4 drop is super cheap and easy. A pair of front springs, some hangers for the rears. Prob a pretty quick install as well, with no grinding of control arms, no rearranging pinion angles, etc.

I may just start with that to put something into play here. If I run stock 15" wheels/tires, that will give me plenty of towing capacity, ride won't be compromised too much at all, and I can put it in myself relatively quickly.

I may just start here, then. Any opinions on the DJM stuff? They stuff is pretty darn affordable, and the few reviews that I've come across all seem positive.
 

74 Shortbed

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Well, if all you want is 2/4 then springs and hangers is all you need, no grinding on control arms with just springs, drop spindles cause that if you go too low... Never used DJM but I hear both sides so do your homework first.
 

Rusty Nail

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Do the 2/4 man, you wont regret it.
New springs or cut a coil.
Shackles and hangers.

Super effective +cheap+easy+cool.
Lose no load capacity.
 

smoothandlow84

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DJM= crap. Their parts are cheap for a good reason....lack of quality control.

Go with drop springs and hangers. Best bang for the buck, and a few hours of easy labor...and you'll be off killin bugs some more.

Be sure to post before and after pics

My 84 square has a 5 front 7 rear drop. There was definately a lot more cutting, fabricating and geometry to accomplish the stance. Your height will be limited to the rally 15' steelies. The oem backspacing is what causes issues. I never cared for the steelies...so they were sold to the highest bidder and that funded my replacements.

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74 Shortbed

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One of my donors has new DJM 3" lower control arms on it and I sure wouldn't use them.. :eek:
 

smoothandlow84

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One of my donors has new DJM 3" lower control arms on it and I sure wouldn't use them.. :eek:

Be sure to check them for bad welds/stress cracks. The last pair we came across in another build had this issue. We ended up going with strong arm units instead. Along with previous issues with DJM spindles (poor castings and off centered spindles), is why I don't reccomend their parts.

Sometimes you do get what you paid for.
 

74 Shortbed

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Be sure to check them for bad welds/stress cracks. The last pair we came across in another build had this issue. We ended up going with strong arm units instead. Along with previous issues with DJM spindles (poor castings and off centered spindles), is why I don't reccomend their parts.

Sometimes you do get what you paid for.
I won't be using them for sure, for one thing I just don't like how close they are to the ground. They'll be up for sale when I tear it apart.
And yes, you do get what you pay for, had that experience more than once, lol..
 

cptmoney

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Any thoughts on the belltech stuff? Eibach?

I can always cut a coil myself, and to yank a single leaf from the rear doesn't cost much - at least to get an idea of what she'll look like.
 

smoothandlow84

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I've used Belltech in the past. My components are McGaughy (springs and spindles). I always associate Eibach with tuners.
 

74 Shortbed

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I used Belltech on my dually and it was all quality stuff.
 

spanky55amg

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Ok.... Im reviving this thread for a question. I didnt want to dig too deep to get opinions (opinions change over time).

So Im debating between Belltech and McGaughy's. I have never heard of McGaughy's till this forum. Their 2/4 kit that I have found is just under $300.
https://www.suspensionsuperstore.co...mc-c-10-2-4-economy-drop-kit-mcgaughys-33149/

And Belltech from Belltech is $375
http://www.belltech.com/products/be...g-kits.html?dir=desc&limit=30&order=name&p=10

Compare McGaughy's to Belltech.



side note: even before this thread I wouldnt use DJM or Eibach.
 

spanky55amg

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Yeah, and Im not dropping as far as you. From what I have read, I can rock 20x8 in the front and 20x10 in the rear with a 2/4 drop and be fine. No cutting, welding, or grinding. And then Im done with suspension... except for maybe adding bags in the rear to tow or haul.
 

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