TH400 Acting Up

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85K30

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Thanks in advance for any assistance I get from this thread!

I have a 1985 K30 7.4L TH400. It has 74K original miles on the clock. The issue I am experiencing is this:

Fresh start in the morning, trans shifts fine. Drive truck for about 15 miles, and she starts to act as if she always wants to downshift from 3 to 2, even on the lightest touch of the accelerator. Let off, and she clicks back into 3rd. Checked fliud level and condition... no problems there.

Dunno.....
 

crazy4offroad

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I think there's a switch under the gas pedal that controls kick-down, I would look there first.
 

chengny

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X2 with C4OR - as a test, temporarily disable the detent solenoid (AKA the kickdown solenoid).

The actual detent solenoid coil, and it's valve, are located within the casing of the TH400. It's operation is controlled by throttle position.

There is an external switch that regulates the power supply to the detent solenoid. There are 2 places where the switch is normally mounted.

It can be under the hood (activated by the carburetor linkage)

Or, in the cab (activated by the gas pedal linkage).

Two ways to disable the detent function:

1. If you want to stay clean; determine the location of your switch and pull the harness clip. Test drive and see if that solves your early downshift issue.

2. If you don't mind crawling under the truck for a minute; the easiest way to electrically disable the detent is to pull the single wire (orange) at the transmission housing. The connection is the only wire that enters the housing of the TH400 - unless you have a variable pitch stator. Location is on the LH (drivers) side, near the back and just above the oil pan rail.

Here:

You must be registered for see images attach



BTW - This is a safe test. Even without the detent solenoid capability, transmission operation will be as normal - you will only lose the 3-2 kickdown function.
 
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85K30

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Ok! I went out this morning and disconnected the kickdown switch on the accelerator pedal. Even disconnected, the trans acts exactly the same. Could it be something to do with the vacuum modulator? :confused:
 

chengny

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Maybe. The modulating valve and the detent are hydraulically connected and work together to control upshift/kickdown shift points.

From GM (see the bold italics for your issue):

Description
The engine vacuum signal is provided by the vacuum modulator which consists of an evacuated bellows, a diaphragm and a spring. These are so arranged that the bellows and spring apply force that acts on the modulator valve so that it increases modulator pressure. Engine vacuum and a spring oppose the bellows and spring to control modulator pressure.

To reduce the effect of altitude on shift points, the effective area of the diaphragm is different than that of the bellows. Atmospheric pressure acts on the resulting differential area to reduce modulator pressure.

Operation
A vacuum modulator is used to sense engine torque input to the transmission automatically. The vacuum modulator transmits this signal to the pressure regulator, which controls line pressure, so that all torque requirements of the transmission are met and proper shift spacing is obtained at all throttle openings.

Vacuum Modulator Valve
Provides modulator pressure that senses engine torque and vehicle speed. The vacuum modulator speed is used to vary the shift points according to throttle opening and to raise line pressure proportional to engine torque.

2-3 Modulator Valve
Senses modulator pressure to apply a variable force that tends to hold the 2-3 shift valve downshifted.

3-2 Valve
Shuts off modulator pressure from acting on shift valves after direct clutch has been applied. This allows fairly heavy throttle operation in third speed without downshifting. In third speed detent pressure or modulator pressure above 105 psi can be directed to the shift valves to provide downshift forces.


A nice flow diagram of the TH400 shifting controls:

You must be registered for see images attach


Some explanation:

TH400 has two downshift mechanisms, vacuum and electric. The electric is the "passing gear" which kicks in near full throttle. The electric is dependent on the vacuum to work.

First, check the simple things. Is the vacuum line kinked or flattened? Are the hoses connecting the line to the modulator and the intake manifold tap in good shape and tight fitting?

The manual says to first check vacuum modulator and lines for leaks, also check for a stuck modulator valve. I have also seen the tap on the manifold plugged with carbon on older vehicles. An easy way to check this is to pull the hose off the tap fitting and check for vacuum with the engine running.

Next step is to remove pan and valve body. Check for stuck 3-2 valvetrain by shaking valve body. Valves should move under their own weight, also check for broken spring.

Next is to remove pan and disassemble pressure regulator and check for worn or stuck parts.
 

85K30

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OK, I "Think" I found the issue. I figured it had something to do with the modulator as it seemed a vacuum issue. I had the carb rebuilt and after I put her back on the 454, it ran fine. I DID however, forget to go and retourqe the carb to manifold bolts after she got to temp. I found the bolts almost finger tight. I cinched them down and she is responding more like she should. I still think there is an issue, however, I will play with her for a few days to see how she responds. :waytogo:
 

85K30

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Nope! Back to the drawing board! She is still responding the same way. I went as far as replacing the Vacuum Modulator (Red Stripe) and no difference. I am starting to think it may be a line pressure issue for the direct drive clutch.... dunno.... I might need professional help on this one.... :throw:
 

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