Temp gauge/sending unit issues

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ryan_289

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I've got a 78 gmc that I just picked up with a 350 that must be from another year. The temp gauge isn't working and I'm having trouble finding a sending unit. I can ground the wire and the gauge will go crazy and finally peg out way past hot. I bought a sending unit for a 78 and it's threads are too big. We matched one up from a mid 80s 6.2 diesel that fits but I still can't get the gauge to work. Am I checking my gauge correctly?

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chengny

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I've got a 78 gmc that I just picked up with a 350 that must be from another year. The temp gauge isn't working and I'm having trouble finding a sending unit. I can ground the wire and the gauge will go crazy and finally peg out way past hot. I bought a sending unit for a 78 and it's threads are too big. We matched one up from a mid 80s 6.2 diesel that fits but I still can't get the gauge to work. Am I checking my gauge correctly?

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Yeah, you need a 3/8" NPT sender.

Grounding the sensing leg lead - and getting a full high indication - was a good initial test. You proved that the indicator is reacting as designed. But you need to source the correct sensor if you want the dash gauge to indicate anything close to actual coolant temp. .

I think in 1979 GM redesigned the coolant temperature senders (and the cylinder head ports) used with the SBC's:

1. The ports and senders were reduced in diameter from 1/2" NPT to 3/8"
NPT.

2. The resistance range (from cold to hot) was changed to 1365 ohms to 65
ohms. Prior to that is was 350 ohms to 46 ohms.

Those resistance values are for gas engines only. I have no idea what they would be for a coolant temp sender used with a diesel. Don't try to use that mid-80's diesel sender, it will almost surely not be compatible.

Is this what your harness connector to the coolant sender looks like - except it's green?

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If so you should get a sender with this style terminal:

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It's called a button head style. It needs to have a 3/8" NPT body to thread into your mid-80's engine. But that combination (3/8" NPT with a button head) might be difficult to find. You might have to change the harness connector to a later model style.
 

ryan_289

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Yes my connector looks like that. The diesel sender didn't work at all. I'll see if the parts store has one for a 79.

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ryan_289

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So for my 78 gauge to work I need to find a sending unit that ohms out at 350 cold?

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1987 GMC Jimmy

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What about using a brass 3/8" male NPT to 1/2" female NPT adapter so you can just thread in the older unit with the correct resistance parameters? The male side should thread in flush with the head and the end of the sender will be making contact with the surface of the head so I don't imagine much differentiation from the actual temperature.
 

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1987 GMC Jimmy

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Hmm, maybe not. I didn't even think about the sensor portion not being threaded. The adapter probably won't be deep enough to thread it in there good.
 

ryan_289

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The water neck on my engine has 2 fittings on it. One is 1/2 npt. I put the sender in the neck. I'm going to haul some water the the farm in a bit and will see if it works. Also found out that I don't have a thermostat right now so that's on the list.

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ryan_289

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Well I finally got the gauge to move. It is reading quite low right now. Hopefully when I get the thermostat installed I can get my engine back up to proper temps.

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HotRodPC

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Well I finally got the gauge to move. It is reading quite low right now. Hopefully when I get the thermostat installed I can get my engine back up to proper temps.

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Yes, the Tstat will make a difference. I had this problem before thinking the gauge wasn't working. I figured it out when winter came along and my heater wasn't working. I pulled the thermostat and seen it was a fail safe stuck wide open. Once I installed a new thermostat, my temp gauge started working fine. Imagine that. The truck was never warming up.
 

HotRodPC

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Yes my connector looks like that. The diesel sender didn't work at all. I'll see if the parts store has one for a 79.

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You have to be very explicit at the parts stores. Many times they give a SWITCH for an Idiot Light / Tell Tale Light / Hot Light, or what ever you want to call it. Those won't work as a gauge sender since a gauge sender works off of ohms to measure resistance to tell the gauge what to read. A switch is just an On/Off at a predetermined temp, many times 262 degrees or whatever the case may be. Those can vary too.


(Optional Reading)
In my street strip truck back in the day, I had manual analog Stewart Warner gauges but didn't trust my gf or my dad if they drove my truck. So I also had Lights between the gauges and if a RED light came on, they knew to SHUT IT OFF NOW. Don't make it to the next exit, don't make it home cuz it's just 2 more miles, SHUT IT OFF NOW. Also had a Blue Cold light, and they weren't allowed to move it until the cold light went off. I even thought of wiring the HOT and the OIL light to ground out the coil and kill the engine, but luckily I rarely had issues and they knew how serious I was about shutting it down, and I wanted to at least be able to make it to the shoulder and not kill the truck in a lane on the freeway. I had my HOT light set to come on earlier than most vehicles. That truck would run 225-230 frequently in stop and go traffic cuz of the big cam, with a flex fan, electric pusher secondary aux fan in a custom built biggo 4 core radiator. If I remember right, it was in the 240-250 range the hot light would come on. At any rate, you can look up part #'s and find what the temp rating is that it will go into closed loop and set a light. Choose the one you want, and set up a light accordingly. I intend to put these lights in my K10/20 cuz I want to keep the OEM factory gauges, and I just have a problem trusting electric gauges, so the Red light switches will just be a back up for my own peace of mind.
 

theblindchicken

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Hmm... I should check my temp sender and gauge as well... may have the same issue of a busted thermostat so it never warms up, even though the high idle kicks down after a while and the engine bay will get a bit hot (gotta love leaking exhaust manifolds!)

Pretty cool idea there HotRod. Makes me think you could ring a specific gauge with a set of LEDs to light only when those switches go off. So run white bulbs for normal and bright red for warning lights.

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HotRodPC

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I had my gauges cut into the dash. Just over the left side of the temp gauge, say 10 O'Clock, I had the Blue Pilot light for Cold, then over the right at 2 O' clock I had the RED for hot. Then over to the right of Oil Pressure gauge at 2 O'clock had another RED pilot light. That way when a light went on, they'd know what it went to.
 

theblindchicken

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I had my gauges cut into the dash. Just over the left side of the temp gauge, say 10 O'Clock, I had the Blue Pilot light for Cold, then over the right at 2 O' clock I had the RED for hot. Then over to the right of Oil Pressure gauge at 2 O'clock had another RED pilot light. That way when a light went on, they'd know what it went to.

Simple and effective, can't hope for much more than that.
 

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