Swapping one 14FF for another and discs, what parts do I need?

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rpcraft

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FYI we have a whole thread on another forum for 14 bolt swapping that might help contribute some. It's blazer / 4 x 4 related but most all of it should relate to any 14 bolt swap for something that originally had a 10 or 12 bolt.

http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums...ylinder-upgrade&highlight=proportioning+valve
after reading that thread, I feel lucky to have a hydroboost system with a larger master cylinder. now I just need the summit prop valve so I doesn't keep pressure on the rear brakes. other than that I think I'm good to go.
 

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Can anyone tell me what the right length tends to be for wheel studs with discs (and steel wheels)?
 

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FYI I was digging through the most recent version of the LMC blazer book and they have a proportioning valve for 4 wheel disc conversion on page 151 for about 100 bucks.
 

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Why not use the ORD rotor conversion kit and retain truck style brakes and a few bucks!?
 

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because some people just want rear disc brakes is all. They do stop better if you get them set up correctly.
 

rpcraft

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I think the only issue with those is they don't have emergency brakes so overall they are ok but some states require an ebrake to be road legal.
 

77 K20

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Can anyone tell me what the right length tends to be for wheel studs with discs (and steel wheels)?

I just reused my stock wheel studs since I have steel wheels. If I had aluminum wheels where they are thicker where they bolt on then you'd defiantly want to get longer studs.
 

Rusty Nail

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"Many 3/4T 14 bolts will have a wheel stud that's too short when used with the disc kit and some thicker center wheels. Most 1-ton axles have a longer wheel stud that's generally fine. If your studs are too short, use a 14 bolt dually stud and you'll have plenty of thread."


YOU posted the answer?
o_O
 

HotRodPC

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I'm not sure if it's legal in those states that require Park Brake, but there's this valve that might work for some. Most states that do require park brake don't consider an electric Mico brake lock as an alternative. I do believe the reason for that is, if your vehicle loses power while parked, the fear is you'll lose the brake lock as voltage is lost. This valve is a manual valve without electricty required. Of course you'd still have to plumb your brake line into the cab to the swich whereever you mounted it. It's $30 or so.

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http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performa...4Hiz_J6IM8o66XwKTolA2bmcp4u96gTRoCfUIQAvD_BwE
 

Junkie

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Im talking about the rear disc ORD kit..
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/14FFdisckit.htm
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why do you say it's cheaper?

the kit I was looking at is $315 shipped including calipers, pads, rotors, mounts, etc vs that which requires I buy calipers, pads, rotrs

Since I have the highest GVWR C20 they made (at least for 73, 8200) Lugnut makes it sound like a proportioning valve is less important.
 

Junkie

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For anyone who searches and wants the answer to bolt size: it appears that my leaf spring bolts are 9/16 x 4.5, although 4 would likely be long enough too.
 

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