Stuck in Overdrive?

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Ashton84W

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Joined
Sep 4, 2016
Posts
116
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Location
Georgia
First Name
Ashton
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
So here I am drivin happily down 278 blasting out some Charlie Farley and minding my own business when my truck suddenly goes into what I believe is Overdrive. I have an 84' k10 with a swapped 350 and the 700r4. The truck revs extremely high going into O.D. but with no tachometer I can't tell exactly what it is. Plus with custom true dual straight pipes as emissions is not needed here in Ga, it is really loud making it hard to tell once more or if it's just me or not (which it isn't). Well as I'm driving, the trucks shifts into O.D. and as I let off the gas, it doesn't want to shift back. It's like I have no 1-3 and it's just O.D. I'm completely dumbfounded and actually nervous as hell bc I have no money for repairs right now. On top of all of this, my water pump has been leaking pretty bad. It finally decided to give out and spew all of my coolant out after I had limped my way home. Could the water pump and lack of coolant also be affecting the transmission? As I pull in front of my house, I can hear a ticking noise going with the revs of the engine. Now I'm thinking the worst. I think the water pump still works? but the gaskets might have just deteriorated away enough for this to happen. Idk and idk how to check. So I have a transmission stuck on O.D. and a screwed water pump... but hey, of course my luck just has to keep coming doesn't it??? I have no power steering whatsoever. When accelerating or even coasting I can turn my wheel easily. When braking, my wheel becomes hard to turn and at a standstill there is no turning it at all. Pretty sure it's the gearbox but once more idk how to or even if there is a way to check. Oh me what have I gotten into? This is my daily driver so I need help ASAP!!! Please please oh please.
 

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1987 GMC Jimmy

Automobile Hoarder
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
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Location
Mississippi
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V1500 Jimmy
Engine Size
350
So what it sounds like you're saying is you gotta get the RPMs way up to get into OD, and it's reluctant to shift out of there when you slow down. Am I right in that inference, or am I missing something? I'm thinking do not move that truck an inch until you check your T.V. cable. It sounds like it's too slacked, and I'm not even gonna think about it not being there. That thing has got to be set right, or the transmission will burn up. Google how to adjust 700R4 TV cable, and you can see pictures and instructions that would supersede my explanation. I'd also check to see that the four pin connector plugged into the transmission above where the pan mounts. That's the torque converter clutch lockup solenoid. As far as a correlation between transmission operation and coolant loss/overheating. I say there is one if your actual coolant is overheating. The trans fluid has to swim through all that hot water in the radiator, and a 700R4 is more on the delicate side in terms of heat so if you're running coolant that's 250 degrees versus 180-195, I'd say that's detrimental. By the way, a new water pump is like seventeen bucks. Just replace it. It's really easy. As far as engine ticking goes, do you have a working oil pressure gauge and plenty of oil in there? Do you check it regularly? If the PCV were to be bad, it'll blow oil by and start making things tick. I'd start with the basics there. I say at this point, worst case scenario, you may have to adjust your rockers. Pretty easy thing. Finally, take the lid off the PS pump and check the fluid level. If it's low, top it off and turn the steering wheel to full lock each way while it's running to purge any air out and top it off. Also, make sure the belt's tight and not flopping around/completely gone. You tighten them using the various individual two bolt tensioners on top of the accessories. There is an adjustment procedure for the Saginaw box you can resort to if your steering parts are tight, your column isn't sloppy, and your intermediate shaft rag joint isn't toast. If when you turn the wheel, and you see your intermediate shaft turn and the box doesn't try to engage the pitman arm connected to it, you can adjust it. I'd check the other stuff first before you resort to adjusting the steering box, and the steering box wearing out has more to do with lack of response rather than hydraulic assist.
 

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