Square Dually Complete Stereo build....

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johnnydefacto

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I just completed the stereo build for my square Dually (89 C30). It was many firsts for me. I have never built a complete system, I have installed speakers before and an amp or two, and I have installed a couple head units, but that is where my experience stopped.

I had a 1.5 DIN aftermarket head unit that came with the truck from the previous owner, it was non functional. The stock 3.5's and 4x9's and wiring were all there. I pulled out everything. The dash was cut for the 1.5 DIN head unit, so I had very few choices for a head unit unless I wanted to weld, or use the mounts that fill the gaps. I didn't even have to consider plan B as I found the RetroSound Newport 1.5 DIN head unit was a perfect fit.

I decided to stick with the 3.5"s in the stock location and went with the Kicker KS 3.5's 2 ways. I know they are not great, but what 3.5's are? I am running these off the head unit. They are louder and better than I was expecting after reading about everyones experiences with the 3.5's.

I chose to go with 2 10" subwoofers, found these Kicker Comp VT 400 watts that are low profile and in a sealed box (which is what I like) they only need 0.6 cu/ft of airspace each. They are SVC at 2 ohms, powered by ARC Audio xdi 1100.1 wired parallel at 1 ohms.

Since I had 4 of the 8 speakers all Kickers, I decided to get the 6.5's and 6x9's Kicker as well as they will be seen.

a pair of KS 6.5" 2 way coaxial and
a pair of KS 6x9 3 ways.

I am powering those 4 speakers by an ARC audio xdi 804 4 channel.

After sitting in my truck with the 6.5's in my hands I decided to go with the kicker panels that are sold on this site. They definitely look the best and were so easy to install. I will have to mess with my parking brake a little bit but I am happy with how they turned out (when I re do my interior next year they will get painted to match). Also played with the idea of cutting the OE 4x10 brackets to fit the 6x9's and then put them back in the stock location, but after measuring how big my box would be and looking at the angle the 6x9's would be at, I was not happy.

FYI, I was able to cut those mounting brackets bigger to hold the 6x9's, and they will fit in that corner...

Instead I decided to expand my sub box so that i could put the 6x9's with the subs. i kept them separate because with them installed would have made it near impossible to get the box into the back.

I have never built a box before, so I am pretty pumped on how it turned out. Trying to get 7"s on each side of the box in order to mount the 6x9's and leave enough space for the 1100 and 804 amps in the middle AND get as much airspace as possible for 2 10s was tough. I think I maximized the space as much as possible. The amps are in there really tight, I made the space as narrow as possible so that I could have the as much airspace as possible.

I ran the amp power under the chassis and up into the cab directly below the amps. I also have the 3' ground coming up directly under the amps. I was concerned about running them in the cab, there is not a lot of room in the rocker channels and I did not want either power or ground anywhere near the components or speaker wires. The 6 components are running along and under the passenger side rocker panel, as well as the speaker wire for the front 6.5. The front left 6.5 speaker wire and remote wire is running the driver side rocker, along with the factory cargo light wires (white and orange)??? idk.

This truck was unmolested except for a mickey-mouse electric trailer brake system that I pulled out, so all the speaker wires were un touched. I pulled it all out and went with 14 gauge wire for my 6.5s and 6x9s.

There is very little room behind the seat as you all know, so I maximized it as much as possible. the 6x9's stick out the farthest, about 3/4". I was going to set them into a sheet of MDF so that they would be flush with the subs and look really cool, but i decided to leave them sticking out farther than the subs so that when people are sitting in the back seat, the seat will be pushed against the 6x9's protective grill and not my subwoofers.

Running all the components, speaker wires, power(s) and ground(s) was touch because of the tight amp rack I left myself with and the very small space behind the amp rack. I was/am really concerned with getting interference so I was sure to keep all the wires from touching each other, the best I could. I get the fuse and fuse holder tomorrow so I can fire her up then... I will update you on how it sounds.

Here are some pictures....
 

johnnydefacto

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3/4" MDF $30. I used wood glue and 1 1/4" finish nails with my nail gun. You can see I put the back plate on top of the bottom plate, then I made the 3 sections. The two outside are for the subs, and the middle is for the amps and power/ground distribution block.
 

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johnnydefacto

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Its all framed up, time to cut the holes for the subwoofers (gotta make sure to make them low enough to keep the magnet from hitting the back plate) I could have mounted them about 1-2 inches higher but I really did not want the magnet to hit, I did not want to have to put in a spacer or re build the front and re-cut the hole.

I recessed the amp rack because the amps are almost 3" thick so I had to recess the rack.
 

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johnnydefacto

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I also decided to go 3/4" higher than originally planned. The curve of the back wall of the truck under the window does not allow you to make a square edge on the back plate of the box, so you have to keep it 3/4"-1" low OR you can go all the way up and shave the back end to match the curve. I chose the latter as it gives me a tiny bit more airspace and it looks really nice.
 

johnnydefacto

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the "tabs" on each side of the bottom plate WAS going to be how I secured the box to the bottom of the floor, they are cut the way they are to make room for the rear seat mounting bracket and bolt. The box is so heavy and snug that I do not have to bolt it down.
 

johnnydefacto

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Here it is in place, I kept it here as I built the 15" x 7" 6x9 mounts.
 

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johnnydefacto

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dyna mat the whole rear end
 

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johnnydefacto

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Here is the RetroSound Newport 1.5 DIN bluetooth, 2 usb's, 2 mini jacks, microphone......

simple, lets me hook up my phone through bluetooth, and I can plug my phone in the USB and charge it while I listen. Its very simple, basic, and looks true to year which I really like.
 

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johnnydefacto

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Final product.

I have a few clips I ordered that will help with the routing of the 4 gauge power and grounds, as well as the components and speaker wires to make them a little bit more neat.
 

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johnnydefacto

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Here are the 6.5's installed in the kicker panel. I plan on completely redoing the interior, changing the color to grey/charcoal, so that is why I carpeted the box in that color. And when I do that the kick panels will be painted grey as well. The interior is in really great shape though, so my plan to do it next year may get pushed back a couple years.
 

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74 Shortbed

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Very nice indeed thanks for sharing, I may do very similar in my C-10..
 

87scotty

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Wow very nice
 

brewster21

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Very nice, did a similar installation in my 1975 regular cab, I did a retrosound model 2 as my dash hasn't been cut up(luckily)and I really like it, I also did 3.5 kicker two ways in the front in the factory mounting position under the dash, then I got some 6x9 speaker mounts from a guy that custom makes them, and got kicker 3 way 6x9s and put them in the mounts, and lastly I put in a kicker kx400.4 amp, and it sounds amazing I wish I had a sub though
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johnnydefacto

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Thanks guys, it was a very fun project.

Brewster that looks good. We have the same speakers :D

So I was able to fire it up today. I preset the amps a little bit as they came from the factory zero'd out. I really do not know what I am doing, just a little experience from playing with my boat system. Anyhow it sounds really really good. Bright Highs and solid bass. I am really really happy with how it sounds just as is, but I definitely want an audio guru to come over and tune it to my liking.

I then started my truck to see if I was successful at keeping the interference out of it. I can't stand it when stereos pick up the ignition or the electric motors of the windows...etc. Well I am happy to report that the system is crystal clear when the truck is running.

Long story short my ECMB fuse popped shortly after I started the truck. I replaced the fuse and it popped as soon as I turned the key to ignition on. I traced it to the oil pressure sending unit, one of the 3 wires was exposed and wet from oil, so I cleaned it up, fixed the open wire and plugged it back in. No blown fuse anymore. It was not related to my stereo install, but it threw me for a loop for a bit as it happened at the same time...
 

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