@#$%$# shock hardware

[77 K20]

So I got new front springs today (ORD custom springs) and figured it wouldn't be too hard to get the Tuff Country HD front springs off since I only put them on about 4 years ago, and that included the Bilstein 5125 shocks.

The lower shock mount, the nut came right off. Great! Then realized I can't get the bolt out. The bolt freely spins. The rubber/urethane bushing doesn't spin. Grabbed a small sledgehammer and gave the bolt some good hits with the nut back on to protect the threads. Bolt still stuck. All that did was bend the one shock mount tab out a bit. I can look down in there a bit and now see that the $#@!#@ metal bushing must be rusted/siezed to the bolt itself. The metal bushing spins with the bolt. The metal bushing is larger than the shock mount tab holes...

The shocks are still good- they are just too short for the new springs. How the hell can I remove them without damaging the shock? Only thing I can come up with is grind off the head of the bolt and grind off the nut side flush. Then pry, spread the shock mount apart and hope it doesn't crack. If I get it wide enough maybe I can pry out the stupid shock...

Or?

Now the next part- to mount the new Bilstein shocks. I have no shock hardware. And obviously what I used last time sucks (not even sure where they came from). Just buy stainless bolts, nuts, and washers and use them?


Anyway- luckily I was able to remove the top of the shock at least. I had to do that as the new springs have so much arch I had to drop the axle way down to get it to fit. The new springs make the axle droop way down with just the weight of the axle... which is 1.5" inches lower than my old shocks fully extended. The new spring pack is 59 lbs. Tweaked my back wrestling it into place. So I only got the passenger side done.

 

[Blue Ox]

Sawzall the bolt off between the mount ears and the bushing. Then press the bolt out or replace the tube. Next time use plenty of anti-sieze.

 

[77 K20]

I have the shocks mounted body down/shaft up. So there isn't much room between the mounting bolt and the body. Maybe if I borrowed my friends lift and stood under it I might be able to get a good enough angle.

With how much de-icer thru throw on the roads here nothing is safe from not rusting. I use anti-sieze on everything and it helps for a few years then that is it.

Sadly I saw more rust under my truck last night. Last winter they even were spraying de-icer on all the roads when they were completely DRY!! Why? Because there was a chance of snow that night. Lazy bastards. And the weather forecast here isn't very accurate. And if it snows just an inch or two? Don't plow, just spray more de-icer.

 

[Kyle Childress]

I wish would have documented removing my ancient lift that was on my truck..... been on it since the mid 80s, the front was a breeze but the rear leafs and shocks were no joke. I had to trash a set of vintage Rancho shocks too, shame.

 

[Blue Ox]

AFAIK they're all body down. Can't flip the sawzall and come at it from under the axle tube at a shallow angle, or is there still stuff in the way?

Stainless has some properties that don't usually make it the most desirable fastener. But in that application I couldn't see it being an issue.

And I think they pre-spray because it helps keep snow from sticking. At least that's what they say around here. I know the stuff they use now is more corrosive than salt was. Every publication in the trucking industry does articles about all the problems it causes. Particularly electrical, but chassis as well.

 

[Snoots]

I don't know how much room you have to work with but, you might try using a C-clamp and a socket that is larger than the head of the bolt over the head of the bolt.

 

[disenough]

I don't know how much room you have to work with but, you might try using a C-clamp and a socket that is larger than the head of the bolt over the head of the bolt.

This or cut or grind the head off from the outside of the mount and use the nut to pull the bolt out.

 

[77 K20]

Tried using my large C-clamp and a socket. Cranked on the clamp as tight as I possibly could and the stupid bolt didn't budge. Guess sawing will be my only option.

I hate that de-icer with a passion. I lose a brake caliper due to it siezing at least once every other year on my vehicles. The latest casualty was my Passat with only 29,000 miles on it.

 

[theblindchicken]

What about using a balljoint press? Probably wouldn't hurt heating it up with a torch first either.

 

[77 K20]

Probably a not really needed update:

C-clamp idea didn't work. So-

I ended up hitting the nut end with a big hammer and that bent the shock bracket out a bit. Then there was enough room to get the 4" angle grinder (that I had to run out and buy) in there with a cut off wheel. Then after making a cut on the head of the bolt side I had to pry the shock over to that side and make a second cut to get the bolt out.

I now have stainless hardware on my front shocks.

 

[theblindchicken]

Fighting you every step of the way, but its getting done.

 

[shiftpro]

[QUOTE="77 K20, post: 436925, member: 2622"

I now have stainless hardware on my front shocks.[/QUOTE]

My local industrial supply store tells me we can't get high tensile stainless hardware.
So wondering, do you know the specs on the hardware you finally had the pleasure to install?

My personal experience with stainless bolts (bought at my store I mentioned, several times over the years) has been disappointing too many times.
They are in fact weak. They stretch. They break after installed and you walk away. And the nuts are junk... with the exception of the nylock type.
Washers are so soft they actually get rubbed away after be reinstalled a few times and under good torque.
Oh, and they fukin rust!... everything again with the exception of the nylocks.

And also to be fair, I don't know what strength is required for shocks. What grade is supplied on high end shocks? My Doetsch shocks are currently
well packed away yet since my recent move, so I can't just run out and look at them.

 

[77 K20]

I don't know the specs, but bought them at a farm/ranch supply store. I wouldn't bolt lets say my steering box on to the frame with unknown hardware but a shock is a different item. I figure a 1/2" bolt that hold in place something that is allowed to move isn't under much stress. The stainless nylock nuts were very big/beefy looking also.

I'll keep an eye on them. I always re-check suspension parts for a few months of an install. Especially after a trip on some rough roads.

I've always thought it was odd that Bilsteins don't come with hardware.