Power locks/Windows

[conny8412]

Hey Guys,

Just finishing up with my interior and before i put all new parts in i needed some help.

My power locks are just not working at all and my power windows go up very slow. Driver side goes up halfway and needs pushed/guided up the rest of the way.

Can someone give me the part list of what ill need to replace? I can find all the parts but i specifically need to know what to get. Actuator, motor, etc? Thanks in advance!

 

[notverrysmart]

If it works smoothly just slow you might just need to lube it up. The rear windows on my burb did the same thing was very very slow and the pass side needed somebody to help it up or down. Just pull the door skin and shoot some lube on the tracks and gears and it should help it out quite a bit.
Also cleaning the contacts on the wires going to the switches and the motor as well as the contacts on the switches and motor helps too.
I used graphite lube on the tracks and gears and baking soda/water solution on the electrical contacts to eat through the corrosion then used some contact cleaner from radio shack to clean off the baking soda residue.

On the door locks, if they are not even trying to work try pulling the switch off and jumping the pins on the connector. IIRC there are 3 and the middle one is hot, top is unlock and bottom is lock. If you hear the actuator try to move then it is more than likely your switch, if not try pulling the actuator and checking that with a battery to make sure it isn't a wiring problem.
If they are trying to work (you hear the actuators move) then you just need to lube up the lock linkage (if thats the technical term for it) also wouldn't hurt to clean up the contacts as well.

 

[HotRodPC]

I wish I could be more help on this subject. I haven't mastered pw and pl just yet. My 85 K1500 has pl just fine. But no PW. They do nothing at all. They're like those snooty bitches N of OKC, they're stuck up !!!

 

[89Suburban]

Do an advanced posts search for member chengny and the word window or lock and I am sure you will find some troubleshooting info. Use silicone spray on your window track felts.


Posted on my iPod 4th Gen using PUNCTUATION.

 

[conny8412]

Thanks Guys!

 

[notverrysmart]

Do an advanced posts search for member chengny and the word window or lock and I am sure you will find some troubleshooting info. Use silicone spray on your window track felts.


Posted on my iPod 4th Gen using PUNCTUATION.

I thought about that but wouldn't it leave a residue on the window, or is it once it dries it doesn't transfer?

 

[RetroC10Sport]

Never has for me.

 

[chengny]

See those small white nylon rollers at the ends of the arms - they'll be falling off. Since they are so loose they no longer guide the window straight up and down. Consequently the glass gets crooked and jams into the channelruns.

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Autozone sells a repair kit for this. I've never tried it so can't say if it would work. It consists of a new set of rolllers and some jumbo sized pop-rivets.


As for the power lock issue - for starters;

Make sure there is a circuit breaker in the #24 slot of the fuse block (and that it isn't permanantly open).

Both the power windows and door circuits are protected by circuit breakers rather than fuses. The breaker plugs right into the fuse block just as a fuse does.

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Check for broken wires especially where the harness transits from the cab body into the door (on either side of the rubber conduit) and also within the door shells.

The power locks are controlled by a relay that the harness plugs into. It's mounted up near the convenience center. Make sure it is there and the harness connections are firmly in place.

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Power windows and locks schematic:

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[HotRodPC]

Hey Jerry, do you have a diagram for the fuse block on an 85 or shouldn't it be the same as this? My power windows aren't working on the 85 K1500. There is a 30amp fuse in the spot of the breaker now and it is good, but still no power windows. I did clean the grounds up at the ground terminals on the driver kick panel. And still no windows.

I noticed in this diagram, for the plugs, there is 3 different spots that have wires that plug into the top of the block. Notice 2nd Row, marked WDO. I have nothing plugged in there and got all excited thinking I just need to find the plug to plug it in. then I seen the same thing marked on the far right of the block.

So I looked at an 86 Truck that the windows and locks work fine, and it does not have anything plugged in on the 2nd row. So obviously, those locations where they plug in for the 30 amp breaker are different, or are both locations breakered?

And would it make a difference if I have a fuse in there instead of a breaker???

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[conny8412]

Guys,

This is a great help - i really appreciate it. I will keep everyone posted on this as i work through it.

 

[HotRodPC]

Guys,

This is a great help - i really appreciate it. I will keep everyone posted on this as i work through it.

Yes, Please do keep us updated. I'll be moving some of the posts in this thread to the Power window troubleshooting Sticky.

 

[chengny]

Here is the fuse block layout for 1985 CK trucks (and probably for all 81-87).

I made an attempt to indicate the current flow for the power windows. I hope it isn't too confusing.

Bottom line - If you are using the slot directly above the choke fuse for your PW circuit breaker, the plug in connector for the PW feed needs to go where indicated (and as labeled WDO on the front of the fuse block):

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[HotRodPC]

Ohhhh Dat's a nice one in the full size image.

 

[HotRodPC]

Here is the fuse block layout for 1985 CK trucks (and probably for all 81-87).

I made an attempt to indicate the current flow for the power windows. I hope it isn't too confusing.

Bottom line - If you are using the slot directly above the choke fuse for your PW circuit breaker, the plug in connector for the PW feed needs to go where indicated (and as labeled WDO on the front of the fuse block):

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See, I don't have anything plugged in to the PWO Stab In spot. On either the 85 or 86, but the PW do work on the 86. But this will gimme some info to follow. I'll see if I can dig out my wiring book for 86, if it matches 85, then I'll know what color wire should be plugged in there and can look around for it. It's got to be that simple. Grounds are good, Fuse is good, Harnesses are good, switches are new and I find it hard to believe both motors at the same time would go bad and not even buzz. The lights or nothing even dim when you hit the switches as if they are doing nothing at all.

 

[HotRodPC]

FUGGIN A BUDDY !!! I"m Gonna Blow UP Every Thread I can with this. I've been right all along, BUT, like an idiot, after I RE WIRED the new switches in, I didn't check the fuse. It was blown. Put another fuse in, and it blew. Took the 30amp Circuit Breaker out of the other truck, BAMM !!! I have power windows. It was obvious they hadn't gone up or down in years. They screached and creeked, whined and moaned, but after 4 of 5 times up and down that went away. Still a bit slow, but I bet with some lube, they'll work just fine.


Soooo, now let's Conny's working right !!!