np203 vibrating after 55mph!

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MrMarty51

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I always install the shafts so the slip yoke is at the gear box end.
If it at the differential the slip yokes will be constantly bouncing and jostling with the movement of the front or rear differentials which will cause them to wear at a greater rate.
I have seen in some years that,from the factory,the slip yokes were positioned at the differential so I always turned them around,put them at the gearbox.
 

bucket

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I always install the shafts so the slip yoke is at the gear box end.
If it at the differential the slip yokes will be constantly bouncing and jostling with the movement of the front or rear differentials which will cause them to wear at a greater rate.
I have seen in some years that,from the factory,the slip yokes were positioned at the differential so I always turned them around,put them at the gearbox.

There is a benefit to running them backwards while off road. Having the slip yoke down near the differential puts the hollow (and weak) part of the shaft up out of harm's way.
 

MrMarty51

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There is a benefit to running them backwards while off road. Having the slip yoke down near the differential puts the hollow (and weak) part of the shaft up out of harm's way.

OK,I did`nt know about that aspect to it,being a mechanic,all I could think about was that poor o`l slip yoke bouncing with each joustle of them diffrentials.LOL :jester:
 

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well, i aligned them and boom huge improvement, but 55-60 still notice it but not nearly as bad but beyond 60 its fine and i don't do 70 cus ...... i feel sorry for her lol screamin and she doesn't handle the best at thos speeds (prolli do to my junkyard lift kit lol) But all in all big thanks i can live with it for now.
 

89Suburban

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Keep it at 55, that's why those numbers on the gauge are orange. :rolleyes:
 

crazy4offroad

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well, i aligned them and boom huge improvement, but 55-60 still notice it but not nearly as bad but beyond 60 its fine and i don't do 70 cus ...... i feel sorry for her lol screamin and she doesn't handle the best at thos speeds (prolli do to my junkyard lift kit lol) But all in all big thanks i can live with it for now.

Good to hear, still might be 180 degrees out. If the end with the slip joint on it has a grease zerk that could be enough weight to keep it still ever so slightly out of phase, that taking it apart and turning it 180 would put it right where it needs to be. You may try giving it a good shot of grease as well.
 

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You all have great points but there is one thing I have not heard mentioned,
if any of you have ever experienced a out of balanced or faulty torque converter it creates a driveline shudder at certain intervals based on resonance and at particular revolution. From this point it can eventually damage the input shaft. just food for thought.
 

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DAMIT Crazy! LOL i knew i should have flipped it cus the zerk is on the same side as the balance weight on the drive shaft. But i told my self that the weight of the zerk wouldn't be noticeable.
 

bucket

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DAMIT Crazy! LOL i knew i should have flipped it cus the zerk is on the same side as the balance weight on the drive shaft. But i told my self that the weight of the zerk wouldn't be noticeable.

Well, it's hard to say for sure.

Switch one shaft at a time and see if it helps or hurts.
 

Kapdin

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Kapdin

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Well, it's hard to say for sure.

Switch one shaft at a time and see if it helps or hurts.

ight, this weekend ill hit it. also would LOVE to get the k30 back running, need to replace the heater core. :superhack:
 

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Well still haven't swap the yolk 180 yet but vibration is still there and annoying right smack at 55-60.
 

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Inspect the driveshafts for any dents or deformities at the yokes, like egg-shaped holes for the u-joints. Also if there is slop at the slip joint in the shaft could cause the vibes. The end of the shaft that slips off is replaceable, pretty reasonably too.
 

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yea, last time i swaped my driveshaft i noticed there is slight play unlike the combo joint at the rear. But how much is tomuch play? any at all?
 

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