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Honky Kong jr

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Thanks super sarcastic man lol
Lol yeah something is expanding with the increase in temperature and making the magic connection. I’d be cutting out those fuseable links and replacing them with other fuses. And adding a few ground wires won’t hurt either. I added 4 or 5 on mine just for so.
 

QBuff02

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as stated before in this thread, I'd be checking or replacing the fuseable links at the starter, and check the one on the firewall above the engine. I had a bad one awhile back with a no start issue that if you'd just wiggle the wires at the starter it would make enough of a connection to start, I kind of forced myself to redo them soon after that when I accidentally dropped the power wire from starter to alternator onto the body of the alternator and it was smoke city for about 3 seconds! Replaced all fusible links and she's been a smooth starter since. And on another note, my friends '84 K20 has an issue with the wires to the key switch in the steering column where if the tilt wheel is tilted all the way down or up, it won't start.. All other bells and whistles work, and if you tilt his column to somewhere in the middle of its swing, the truck will start right up. Said it just up and happened one day on him, and when his buddy with a beer belly got in to try to start it himself he tilted the wheel up enough to get behind it and it started right up for him! lol Darren crawled back in, put the wheel down and no start, moved the tilt column up a little and it fired right up.. I told him we needed to address that someday, and He says its a cheap anti theft device! :doh2:
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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How did the troubleshooting chart go?
 

Gray87GMC

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Thanks super sarcastic man
How did the troubleshooting chart go?

I followed it to the point where it said it was either the engine ignition switch, fusible links, or bulkhead. Replaced he ignition switch but that did nothing. Bulkhead connections seem OK. So even though it runs in warm weather, looks like I’m going to have to bite the bullet and redo the fusible links!
 

Gray87GMC

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Lol yeah something is expanding with the increase in temperature and making the magic connection. I’d be cutting out those fuseable links and replacing them with other fuses. And adding a few ground wires won’t hurt either. I added 4 or 5 on mine just for so.

Can you elaborate on adding grounds? I’m familiar with the grounds already on the truck. To the alternator, body, and strap from block to frame... but where would I add more?
 

Honky Kong jr

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Can you elaborate on adding grounds? I’m familiar with the grounds already on the truck. To the alternator, body, and strap from block to frame... but where would I add more?
Cab to frame these trucks are very ground dependent. The more the better he’ll i have 2 ground wires to my fuel tank.
 

smoothandlow84

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Definately verify the ground connections. Since you live in a colder climate and probably prone to excessive moisture and eventually rust, the ground connections can become weak and corroded to the pojnt of acting up now and again at the connections to the frame. It could also be possible that the ground wires have been corroded inside of the sheathing as well. I replaced my grounds with the same gauge wire and discovered that in one of the ground wires, when the sheathing was removed, the wire was corroded and split. Wires that carry power are often corroded as well...the copper turns bluish green and sometimes blackened with age and use, which causes voltage drops ( my truck suffered from this as well, and it has always been a Arizona truck).

Electrical issues are always a challenge. Be patient .
 
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Gray87GMC

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What I don't understand, is if I have a connection so close to failing that temperature changes it, why if the truck starts does it drive just fine?

But another development... I repeated this cycle of the truck working fine in warm weather and not in cold... until yesterday. Despite being warm, not only will the truck not start, but I have no power anywhere. Headlights, door buzzer, dome lights... everything has now quit working...

I hate electricity lol....
 

QBuff02

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What I don't understand, is if I have a connection so close to failing that temperature changes it, why if the truck starts does it drive just fine?

But another development... I repeated this cycle of the truck working fine in warm weather and not in cold... until yesterday. Despite being warm, not only will the truck not start, but I have no power anywhere. Headlights, door buzzer, dome lights... everything has now quit working...

I hate electricity lol....

...Fusible links... :emotions33: Lol
 

QBuff02

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...Fusible links... :emotions33: Lol

Yes, it could be a multidude of electrical gremlins.. But now that You say you have "nothing" it makes me lean more towards them, simply because when I had my Ben Franklin moment:shocked: and fried all the fusible links, I lost ALL power to everything in the cab- lights, horn, buzzers, etc.. And when I replaced them, all problems went away..
 

Gray87GMC

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...Fusible links... :emotions33: Lol

I'm sure you're right. We've just had warm weather so the truck was running and driving great and I was procrastinating... But now it's deader than dead.
 

Gray87GMC

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Just out of curiosity, why would a fusible link/links blow in the first place?
 

QBuff02

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Just out of curiosity, why would a fusible link/links blow in the first place?

Bad connection, over amperage, age-they do tend to deteriorate over time.. A short in the system like I did by grounding a power wire out. The protective coating (insulation) can get oil soaked over time, and it can let the wires "separate" and they'll come apart.. many reasons for them to go. They're designed to protect the harness where a fuse wouldn't quite do the same job.
 

Gray87GMC

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Just got home from work and the truck started right up. This thing was sent from Satan himself to torture me
 

sunbum

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I just fought this issue on my 85 k10 Suburban last weekend and haven't read the whole thread to see if I"m duplicating advice, but here goes. My dad thought it was the ignition switch mounted to the top of the steering column, but changing it didn't help. The fusible links near the starter checked out fine with a test light, but I wasn't getting power to the dash when I turned the key. Headlights/dome light/horn worked fine.Tracing the wires, I found wire-nut splices (previous owner) where the fusible link should be near the junction block at the top of the firewall. I pulled the bulkhead connector just below the wiper motor and confirmed I had power to the upper left-most red wire going in (I'm assuming horn/lights/etc, now), but the lower left red wire had no power - until my brother jiggled that wire-nut. I took it apart and the wire-nut almost disintegrated. As a stopgap until I can make a good repair, I used a new wire-nut and found I now had power to the lower red wire. Reconnected the bulkhead connector, reconnected plugs into the ignition switch, and fired it up. If you can check the bulkhead connector for power on those two red wires, it should tell you whether the problem is inside the cab or in the engine bay.
 

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