new resistor but no blower...why?!

[78C10BigTen]

I bought a brand new blower resistor and i have no fan speeds? I had high with the old one but none now... anyone tell me why? Also in my picture is this wiring factory routed or has someone rigged it?

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[Honky Kong jr]

I bought a brand new blower resistor and i have no fan speeds? I had high with the old one but none now... anyone tell me why? Also in my picture is this wiring factory routed or has someone rigged it?

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Did you check the fuse? And your blower motor may have over amped that resistor and melted it meaning your motor is crap.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Max speed is controlled by the high speed fan relay, which is the little silver guy bolted to the evaporator case. I, too, like the bad blower motor for the aforementioned reason. The only way to be sure is to make sure if it's getting power or not.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Did you check the fuse? And your blower motor may have over amped that resistor and melted it meaning your motor is crap.

Fuses are good. Old melted resistor worked on high. With new resistor, switch fan to high it clicks and thats it. No speeds and no blow

 

[78C10BigTen]

With old melted resistor and wires bypassing fan relay (as shown) it blows on only high.

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[75Monza]

I think the part you are bypassing bolted on the firewall is a radio blower motor capacitor. If it's bad, no power will go through it.

 

[RustyPile]

That "silver thing" is a noise suppressor, not a motor capacitor. Only AC powered electric motors require a capacitor.. It appears you have the blower motor connected wrong.. The purple wire goes from the relay to the blower motor power connection.. Since the blower motor is mounted on a plastic housing it requires a ground connection.. The black wire with the piece of yellow wire spliced to it is the ground wire.. Cut the yellow part off, crimp and solder an "eye" terminal to that end of the black wire.. Remove one of the blower motor mounting screws, put the screw through the terminal eye and replace the screw... Most automobile radios have a noise suppressor built in, so do away with the noise suppressor on the blower motor.. If the motor is good it should now run..

 

[78C10BigTen]

That "silver thing" is a noise suppressor, not a motor capacitor. Only AC powered electric motors require a capacitor.. It appears you have the blower motor connected wrong.. The purple wire goes from the relay to the blower motor power connection.. Since the blower motor is mounted on a plastic housing it requires a ground connection.. The black wire with the piece of yellow wire spliced to it is the ground wire.. Cut the yellow part off, crimp and solder an "eye" terminal to that end of the black wire.. Remove one of the blower motor mounting screws, put the screw through the terminal eye and replace the screw... Most automobile radios have a noise suppressor built in, so do away with the noise suppressor on the blower motor.. If the motor is good it should now run..

As it is right now the blower is only blowing on high with the old melted resistor. Where the suppresor is mounted to the blower theres a ground behind it that goes to the firewall.

 

[75Monza]

The noise suppressor is a capacitor, usually like a 1 or 2 micro farad. They were used on wiper motors, blower motors, sometimes off the alternator or off the coil. RustyPile is right, don't need the suppressor usually, can just bypass it. Do you have a decent meter? After you make sure you have a good ground, not 100% sure, but I thought there are two separate sources for power also. High speed got power off the red wire and the other speeds got the power through the orange wire, both are on the plug at the fan relay. The purple wire is supposed to connect to one side of the suppressor and the other side of the suppressor connects to the blower motor. There is supposed to be a ground wire that comes down and connects to the screw through the suppressor bracket...in your second picture, what does that black wire that comes from above down to the suppressor connect to, can't see in the picture if it is ground or what it is.
This is what wiring should look like...

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If I knew how to photoshop, would have got rid of the question marks on electricity to fan, lol.

 

[78C10BigTen]

The noise suppressor is a capacitor, usually like a 1 or 2 micro farad. They were used on wiper motors, blower motors, sometimes off the alternator or off the coil. RustyPile is right, don't need the suppressor usually, can just bypass it. Do you have a decent meter? After you make sure you have a good ground, not 100% sure, but I thought there are two separate sources for power also. High speed got power off the red wire and the other speeds got the power through the orange wire, both are on the plug at the fan relay. The purple wire is supposed to connect to one side of the suppressor and the other side of the suppressor connects to the blower motor. There is supposed to be a ground wire that comes down and connects to the screw through the suppressor bracket...in your second picture, what does that black wire that comes from above down to the suppressor connect to, can't see in the picture if it is ground or what it is.
This is what wiring should look like...

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If I knew how to photoshop, would have got rid of the question marks on electricity to fan, lol.

This is how its currently set up. There is a ground from the firewall to the capacitor. Just like it is pictured and with the old melted resistor it only blows on high. If i only change the resistor to the new one it dont have any blow on any speed

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[75Monza]

Using a meter, on the relay, do you have 12v on the red wire? Granted, this is for a corvette, but I think wire color should be the same.

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[78C10BigTen]

Using a meter, on the relay, do you have 12v on the red wire? Granted, this is for a corvette, but I think wire color should be the same.

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Not sure as i dont have a meter

 

[75Monza]

What about a basic circuit tester like this?

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Dirt cheap at any parts store, has a bulb in it, hook the one end to ground anywhere and stick the probe end on wire terminals that are supposed to be hot and bulb lights up...no light, no circuit power.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

What about a basic circuit tester like this?

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Dirt cheap at any parts store, has a bulb in it, hook the one end to ground anywhere and stick the probe end on wire terminals that are supposed to be hot and bulb lights up...no light, no circuit power.

Also works the other way too, for checking grounds by connecting the clamp to a 12v supply, a bit more useful then people give them credit for.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Ill hafta buy one