Lift and tire size help?

[Chevymanforlife]

Can anyone help me out was wondering what kind of lift this was and what size tires?

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[rpcraft]

I'm gonna venture probably a 35 on 4 inch lift but it looks closer to 6 inches perhaps. Bad Juju for weenie 10 bolt axles.

 

[Chevymanforlife]

I'm thinking 4 or 6 inch I also see a body lift to

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[rpcraft]

Yeah I was thinking 4 inch suspension and either 2 or 3 body lift given the bumper gap. Personally you can do 4 inches with 35' x 12.50's and not have any real clearance problems if you aren't ridiculous with your wheel width. Stick with a 15 x 10 and your standard back spacing. At full flex you might have some contact with the front of the front fenders but you can trim slightly and have a good stance in proportion to the tires size. Depending on what your rig is I would be cautions about going over 4 inches in suspension. IF you are Short wheel base or a K5 it'll start to cause rear drive shaft vibration and then you have to start dropping your trans/tcase and other things to solve that, which then causes more angle on the front drive shaft and that can cause binding when you are in 4wd...

Your truck though and all in all each one is a little different.

 

[Chevymanforlife]

I think I'm just gonna go with the 4 inch rough country suspension lift and then go with a 2 or 3 inch body on 35s I'm doing a 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive build using a rolling 3/4 ton frame on my long bed should be nice when done doing the same paint to and a ls 6.0

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Don’t know what the blue truck is but this is 6” all spring front with 2” add a leaf and shackle flip in the rear and a 2” body lift on 36s

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[rpcraft]

Sounds like you are coming up with a game plan. Make sure when you get motor mounts to use some that move the motor back to the transmisson, otherwise you'll have to come up with custom length driveshafts, move your trans crossmember, etc etc. Dirty Dingo makes a good LS swap mount that helps solve that problem but you have to make sure and use good motor mounts and notch the front cross member to clear the oil pan. I used Their swap brackets along with Speed engineering headers, but if i had it to do all over again I would use the hooker cast headers. They seem to work with everything and provide the best clearance with little to no modification anywhere.

One other thing to make sure when you get your 6.0 either use a TH400 or if you want the OD get a 4l80e, ECU, and harness with your 6.0.

 

[Chevymanforlife]

I was gonna go with dirty dingo mounts and the speed engineering headers 4180e 6.0 with the harness together and everything actually working at the salvage yard this spring should get a decent price on my stuff there

 

[rpcraft]

That is a solid plan my friend. Just make sure when you do the dirty dingo mounts put some spacers between them and the motor (about 1/4 or so) and that should lift it enough to not have to notch out the front cross member.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

That is a solid plan my friend. Just make sure when you do the dirty dingo mounts put some spacers between them and the motor (about 1/4 or so) and that should lift it enough to not have to notch out the front cross member.

Hell I put an engine in mine that could of come in mine and I had to notch my cross member. Lol

 

[rpcraft]

I think it all just depends on frame flex and what the truck may have been put through.

 

[Chevymanforlife]

Sure is been doing my research and finally figured out my plans I was thinking of doing a nv4500 swap to behind the ls find a hydro clutch setup which most likely is at the yard to guess time will tell over spring when I start the job just gonna start getting parts together like my suspension lift headers body lift and all that because when this weather warms up its wrench time