Just bought lift kit. prob gonna ride rough

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AustinDube

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I just got a 6" rough country lift with front springs, also got a 2" shackle lift for the front and new bushings and some new cab and transmission bushings all polyurethane. Comes with add a leaf and blocks in the back and i have a flatbed now that is still sorta heavy with pressure treated wood. I got a 350 in front so its weighed down a little but I feel its probably going to be a bit stiff. its on a 1/2 ton pickup by the way and i want your guys's input on this
 

AustinDube

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But then again i'd figure it'd ride better than factory worn components?
 

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theblindchicken

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Just to make sure, you're throwing on a 6" lift that has:

6" lift Front Springs
A 2" Add-A-Leaf + 4" block for the rear?

And you're getting a 2" shackle lift for the front? Do you mean that the shackle is 2" longer than factory or 4" longer than factory?

Just a heads up, installing a longer shackle will give you more lift at half the rate of its added length.
+4" shackle = 2" lift.

Also, a longer shackle will rotate the front axle pinion down creating a bigger issue with ujoint clearances and probably bad vibrations from bad angles. You'll definitely have to shim or move the spring mounts on your axle.

6" is about the mark that you'll probably need a new driveshaft in at least the front, a drop pitman arm and a raised steering arm. Highly recommend also getting a steering box brace so your frame doesn't crack with the additional leverage.

You'll need longer brake lines and shocks as well. Probably wanna space down your bumpstops so you don't compress anything too much.

It'll ride stiffer, but just about every lift is stiffer than factory to be able to hold the body and frame that much higher.


You won't notice anything bad with the poly mounts. Maybe slightly more vibrations, but you won't notice it much.
 

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I'd get a shackle flip for the back and toss the blocks. And get correct u bolts with out the blocks. Yes the shackle flip moves the axle forward but on a flat bed it will be less noticeable.
 

AustinDube

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Ok and will I need the transfercase drop down brackets? but if I do that can i reuse both driveshafts? and i do eventually want to get rid of the blocks but im on a bit of a budjet build at the moment

And by the way its 2" higher than factory for shackles in the front
 

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Ok and will I need the transfercase drop down brackets? but if I do that can i reuse both driveshafts? and i do eventually want to get rid of the blocks but im on a bit of a budjet build at the moment

And by the way its 2" higher than factory for shackles in the front
Transfer case drop mounts help with the rear angles, but it hurts the front since it tilts the transfer case back. Seems like you'd be doing more harm than good with one of those.


By "2 higher", do you mean that the shackle is 2" longer or that the truck sits 2" higher purely because of the shackle?
 

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Transfer case drop mounts help with the rear angles, but it hurts the front since it tilts the transfer case back. Seems like you'd be doing more harm than good with one of those.


By "2 higher", do you mean that the shackle is 2" longer or that the truck sits 2" higher purely because of the shackle?
My 6" Rough Country front lift springs have a wedge block to kick the pinion up, but longer shackles will negate that. I just flipped the factory spacers on my trans cross member. Other then my front shaft being a bit short the angle is good but I have factory shackles.
 

AustinDube

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Transfer case drop mounts help with the rear angles, but it hurts the front since it tilts the transfer case back. Seems like you'd be doing more harm than good with one of those.


By "2 higher", do you mean that the shackle is 2" longer or that the truck sits 2" higher purely because of the shackle?
The shackle is 2" higher it says but I havent installed it yet, the lift kit is expected today too
 

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