Help me ID these wire connections...

[jleblanc06]

Careful it may look like a bunch of tampons sticking out of it if they have the wires on them.....

haha true...

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

The wire should be sticking out somewhere on the driver side. It's a round shaped connector, and you'll want to use a replacement sensor from the parts store or RockAuto. As I mentioned before, you want the bung to be mounted before the collector flange of the headers and not in the exhaust pipe so you get the most heat going to the sensor.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

The wire should be sticking out somewhere on the driver side. It's a round shaped connector, and you'll want to use a replacement sensor from the parts store or RockAuto. As I mentioned before, you want the bung to be mounted before the collector flange of the headers and not in the exhaust pipe so you get the most heat going to the sensor.

Or do a 3 wire.....

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Art's been having trouble with his three wire conversion, and Steve (@smoothandlow84) said his was a waste of time. Their corroborative misfortune has kinda turned me off the whole idea of the three wire, and if it were me, I'd try to make the one wire sensor work before I tried the three. That's just me, though.

 

[jleblanc06]

Art's been having trouble with his three wire conversion, and Steve (@smoothandlow84) said his was a waste of time. Their corroborative misfortune has kinda turned me off the whole idea of the three wire, and if it were me, I'd try to make the one wire sensor work before I tried the three. That's just me, though.

Agreed, I need simple and reliable. This is not a performance build, just trying to keep this old truck running.

On a side note... Question... My distributor top where the rotor mounts to is pretty rusty, does the rotor makes it connection with the surface of the top of the distributor? could this cause issues?

(I also checked the resistance on the pickup, seems ok)

(I like photos)

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

If it were me and the pickup resistance figures were within spec, I'd get a scouring pad or a soft wire brush and clean it up. I try to save money as much as I can, though. A Delco Reman is pretty expensive. It's somewhere in the neighborhood of $182 dollars on RockAuto plus shipping and a $20 dollar core. The electrical connection you're asking about is between the coil, the cap, and the rotor. The rotor simply rides on the rotating assembly to distribute the power. It wouldn't hurt to pull a plug, ground it, turn the key to start, and make sure you get a snappy, whitish spark.

 

[jleblanc06]

If it were me and the pickup resistance figures were within spec, I'd get a scouring pad or a soft wire brush and clean it up. I try to save money as much as I can, though. A Delco Reman is pretty expensive. It's somewhere in the neighborhood of $182 dollars on RockAuto plus shipping and a $20 dollar core. The electrical connection you're asking about is between the coil, the cap, and the rotor. The rotor simply rides on the rotating assembly to distribute the power. It wouldn't hurt to pull a plug, ground it, turn the key to start, and make sure you get a snappy, whitish spark.

OK sweet that makes sense. I already scrubbed it and got all the surface rust out and plopped her back in.

what do you think of my cap and rotor, i pretty much always replaced them when in doubt but I only want to replace what is NEEDED on this truck, not looking to throw money at it until it runs good.

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I can't see any corrosion on the cap contacts and the rotor button looks fine, but if you see even one spot of anything, just get a new one. The rotor needs to go, though.

 

[jleblanc06]

I can't see any corrosion on the cap contacts and the rotor button looks fine, but if you see even one spot of anything, just get a new one. The rotor needs to go, though.

Awesome, Thanks for all your help!

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

No problem!

 

[jleblanc06]

[QUOTE=" Timing is important. I would try eight degrees BTDC and see how that treats you. Don't feel bad if you need to retard it a little, though. [/QUOTE]

Is that setting it at 8 with the timing connector disconnected? I had set it to zero and it runs ok but seems longer to start now.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

You always reset the timing with the connector disconnected, and then you need to disconnect the battery for thirty seconds whenever you plug the connector back in to reset the ECM.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Why is the rotor machining itself into the cap? Am I the only one seeing that?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I see what you're talking about now that you mention it. I don't know what could cause that unless the rotor wasn't seated all the way down.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I see what you're talking about now that you mention it. I don't know what could cause that unless the rotor wasn't seated all the way down.

Or the cam gear is rejecting the distributor gear and pushing up on the shaft.