ESC bypass

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Jagriff

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I'm trying to bypass the esc on my 84 k20. I know to do so you're supposed to cut and splice the black and green wires. The problem is I don't have that. I have 3 wires and then 2 separate ones with their own plugs. The three I've got are pink, black, and brown. Then theirs a pink one that's thicker with its own plug and a white with its own plug. I'm trying to make sense of this. Anyone else experience this?
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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He's right. That's a very universal set of wires throughout a lot of 1980-90 GM vehicles. It should be on the passenger side of the motor near the valve cover, either on top or behind.
 

Jagriff

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This is what I'm looking at. This us the only set of wires I have. Is it possible it's not a stock unit?

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1987 GMC Jimmy

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That's not an ESC distributor. It's a regular vacuum advance model. The wires that plug into the cap go to the HEI coil, and the two individual connectors are the 12V wire and the tach wire. If you want to make adjustments to your advance curve, you need to get a recalibration kit, but besides a point breaker ignition setup, this is as simple as it gets.
 

Jagriff

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Okay. This makes sense. The thing runs like crap and then eventually just falls on its face. A friend suggested the esc fix. My uncle already rebuilt the carb do that's not the issue.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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It could be several things. I'd look down the throat of the carb, actuate the throttle, and make sure the accelerator pump shot is consistent, strong, and starts the instant you move the throttle. I'd do an ignition tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, and wires) if you haven't done so already and make sure you have a good spark at the end of that. Go through and check for vacuum leaks. You can do a visual inspection for lines that are cracked, disconnected, etc. If your base gasket wasn't replaced after the rebuild, you need to get a can of starting fluid and spray around the base to check for vacuum leaks. If the idle speed changes while you're performing this test, you know you have a vacuum leak. It should be a relatively slight but still easily noticeable change if there is one. Also check to make sure the EGR valve moves freely - remove the valve and clean the pintle. Check your timing also. You can try 10* initial, and just leave the distributor at stock curve unless something's not moving right in there or the springs have lost their tension, and then you'll need to do a recurve. It would probably be a good idea to get your total timing also to make sure that the advance mechanism in its entirety is sound. Finally, are you positive that the rebuild was done correctly? Not saying anything at all against your uncle, but Quadrajets can have minds of their own when something goes wrong.
 

The dons

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As anyone fix this issue ? I'm having the same issues I have a brand new edelbrock carb and replaced everything that has to do with fuel spark and air and I mean everything still runs bad and the previous owner chopped the 4 esc wires from fire wall and disconnected wires from esc box under dash I hooked up timing light and as soon as the motor started to act up the flash from timing light was not consistent
 

Matt69olds

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Check the wires from the pickup coil to the ignition module. It’s not uncommon to find the wires cracked from decades of movement. When the wires flex, the signal from the pickup coil becomes erratic, causing a misfire or loss of ignition.
 

The dons

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The distributor and cap are bran new ill take another look tho.....anyone know what color the stock tach wire is and shape of connector I think this could be a issue after reading countless forums im seeing a trend of this "tach wire" being over looked an not hooked up an others experiencing the same problems. I have literally done everything I can do...i just need to know where that tach wire is
 

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