Dual tank problems.

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Senck243

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Complete fuel system is new. Had both tanks working and now only the drivers side tank is working. When I switch the tanks over, it seems to stay on the drivers side. Valve is new, switch is new both tanks and pumps are new. Any help is appreciated as to where to start


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gmachinz

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When I overhauled my entire dual tank system I had a multitude of problems:

1) Aux tank sending unit had torn up screen letting all sorts of scaly crap in

2) LH to RH main fuel supply crossover line was FULL of muddy/rusty debris and was 95% blocked!

3) Float arm contacts worn bad on both sending units

I went ahead and installed all new fuel lines and hoses while installing new tanks, sending units, valve, etc.
 

Senck243

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That's exactly what I did also


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chengny

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Complete fuel system is new. Had both tanks working and now only the drivers side tank is working. When I switch the tanks over, it seems to stay on the drivers side. Valve is new, switch is new both tanks and pumps are new. Any help is appreciated as to where to start


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First step is to confirm that the valve is actually rotating when the dash switch is toggled L & R.

With the type of transfer valve you have, the contacts for the fuel gauge senders are mechanically driven by the same shaft that positions the valve (and reroutes the plumbing) when you change tanks. So, if you can get the tank levels to a point where they are significantly different (say the driver's side is nearly empty and the passenger's side is near full) try shuttling the valve. If you move it to the LH side and the gas gauge shows empty, then switch over to the RH side and it shoots up to full... that would be a strong indication that the Pollak valve is rotating fully from stop to stop.

Also, this type of valve needs to be powered from one tank to the other - there is no default position. That's why - when changing tanks - you have to lean on the dash switch for a couple of seconds - to make sure the motor has been energized long enough to shift the valve plug completely over from one side to the other.

Point is, if the power supply - or ground connection - to the switch is lost for whatever reason, the valve will stay in the position it was last powered to. If you find that the transfer valve does not seem to be moving - as indicated by the gas gauge test described above, you might want to check that you haven't somehow lost power or ground to the circuit. Pull the harness connector from the back of the switch and check for battery power at the pink lead and a good ground on the black lead:

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Those leads are for valve operation only. The sensing leg for tank level indication is carried on a separate lead (happens to be pink as well) that is independent of the dash switch.

After that, if you find that the valve is operating correctly, you'll have to start checking lines for blockage or air leakage.

Wiring diagram if you're interested:

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Senck243

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Thanks I'll give it a shot on my next day off


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kenny78

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The two wires leading out of the firewall have a bulkhead fitting which from experience can get bumped loose without noticing while changing valve covers etc...

Which leads you to siting on the side of the road troubleshooting.

The switch flips which is +12 and which is ground.
 

Senck243

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After running the truck more the pumps switch over because I emptied the passenger tank then flipped over to the driver side but the gauge isn't working. It only measures the drivers tank. Should I reground the passenger sending unit?


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4WDKC

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Have you replaced the switch? Mine wouldnt work the PS tank when I bought it, after taking the switch out cleaning and reinstalling the gauge would finally display PS tank level, but the pump didnt work. Replaced the pump and it all worked, till the valve started leaking fuel.
 

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