Driveway leaf springs and shock replacement or pay $600?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Rooster336

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2018
Posts
68
Reaction score
8
Location
North Carolina
First Name
Hans
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
Alright, so who has done a self install of leafs and shocks in their driveway? How'd it go?

I'm about done with a full break job on the truck and was thinking about trying to tackle a 2'' suspension lift before bleeding the brakes. After calling around to a few shops the best price I was quoted is $600. If I can save myself the money I would like to but have never attempted to install a lift kit.

In my mind all I have to do is put the frame on jack stands and then use my floor jack as needed on the axles but I doubt its that simple. Any must have tools?

Thanks
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,892
Reaction score
4,039
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
I recently did a 3" lift on my K30 in the garage. I also did a 4" on my '79 K15 solo in my garage about 6 years ago. I had an old header from a remodel that I used under my jack stands to get enough lift. I needed about 23" on mine. I put the rear stands under my receiver hitch. In the front, behind the rear spring shackles on the frame. Hardest thing to remove on my K30 was the rear u-bolts. It should be easier with a 1/2 ton. Impact tools definitely speed the job up.[/ATTACH]
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

donnieray

Talks to dogs and trucks.
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Posts
591
Reaction score
427
Location
Roanoke Rapids NC
First Name
Donnie
Truck Year
84,85,86.
Truck Model
86 C10, 84 K10 MM7 NP833 option truck, 85 K10.
Engine Size
350,355;350.
I recently did a 3" lift on my K30 in the garage. I also did a 4" on my '79 K15 solo in my garage about 6 years ago. I had an old header from a remodel that I used under my jack stands to get enough lift. I needed about 23" on mine. I put the rear stands under my receiver hitch. In the front, behind the rear spring shackles on the frame. Hardest thing to remove on my K30 was the rear u-bolts. It should be easier with a 1/2 ton. Impact tools definitely speed the job up.[/ATTACH]
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
What he said. I installed a 3" lift in my back yard recently. I cut the u-bolts though, with a grinder and a cutting disk. Don't let the pop scare you when that disk goes through the u-bolt!
 

78C10BigTen

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2017
Posts
15,583
Reaction score
23,998
Location
pennsylvannia
First Name
Ted
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10 BIG TEN
Engine Size
350
My hardest part doin a spring swap was keepin the rear from rolling forward while i lined up the center bolts in the spring pad holes. A second person is very handy too
 

Derrick

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2017
Posts
544
Reaction score
271
Location
near Milwaukee, Wisconsin
First Name
Derrick
Truck Year
2003
Truck Model
1500
Engine Size
5.3
this was 2 years ago while I still had my pops to help we put in shocks it was pretty simple now for leaf I have no clue. best way to do shocks is while they are still compressed from the plastic band is the bolt in the top then cut the band and let it uncompress till it gets to the bottom hole. it seems easier than trying to recompress the shock under the truck.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
(video not mine)
 
Last edited:

theblindchicken

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2013
Posts
1,518
Reaction score
265
Location
SoCal
First Name
Christian
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
K10 5" lift + 2" BL
Engine Size
350-4, 0.030" over
Done it on the front and rear of my truck.

Soak everything with pb blaster for a few days prior so its ready when ya wanna take it out

Depending on the spring pack thickness, you may or may not need new ubolts.

Big pry bar can be helpful to get the spring eye out of the front holders.

Lift the frame up and block it to where the wheels come off the ground, use a floor jack to put a little compression in the suspesion, remove the ubolts, drop the floor jack to where the springs and axle separate. Remove leaf springs, install new ones, lightly compress it to line it all up and let it settle. Reinstall ubolts and you're good to go.
Put shocks on last.

If you're replacing bushings in the shackles as well, drilling them out works really well.

To keep the pinion from rolling forward, I just stuck a couple blocks for it to rest on. Didnt wanna go anywhere from there.
 

cooperhw

Full Access Member
Joined
May 31, 2017
Posts
390
Reaction score
225
Location
Mesa AZ
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1978, 1981, 1983
Truck Model
C-10, K-20, C-20
Engine Size
5.7L
I did a axle flip kit (removed shocks & springs) last weekend. put the springs back on and bolted it up. took about 4 hours for me, but I'm old and slow. no biggie. hardest part i had was getting the last bolt to line up and go into the front of the spring. took about 30 minutes of cussing, twisting, etc.
 

Frankenchevy

Proverbs 16:18
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Posts
5,963
Reaction score
7,418
Location
USA
First Name
Jeremy
Truck Year
Square
Truck Model
CUCV
Engine Size
Small
I'm right in the middle of it, too. I didn't lift though, just rebuilt my factory leaf packs. make sure you get a nice long centering pin if you are rebuilding like I am. don't just measure the one you pull off, it needs to be much longer then cut down once everything is back together. I went with ORD's greasable bushings and bolts. they were easy enough to install with a bench vise. I pulled everything apart to sand and paint. if you are in a hurry and want to be thorough about it, you might be better off just buying new leaves. it takes a while to restore individual leaves; sanding, treating, priming, painting, etc. there's quite a few different pieces to paint. I like doing every aspect of my restoration, but it got reeeaaaallly tedious. I haven't reinstalled the leaf packs yet. I'm waiting on finishing up painting my frame until I reinstall the leaf packs and new shocks.


You must be registered for see images attach


I brushed on the primer where there were nooks and crannies, then hvlp sprayed the rest. got runs with the paint brush to sand off before spraying the black top coat..
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Jrgunn5150

Questionable methods
Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Posts
2,739
Reaction score
1,412
Location
Ionia Mi
First Name
J.R.
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
6.slow
Those ratchet straps will definitely come in handy when it's time to line everything back up.
 

rpcraft

Full Access Member
Joined
May 31, 2016
Posts
1,330
Reaction score
509
Location
Texas
First Name
Robert
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
LS 6.0 364 CID
FWIW I saw someone mention cutting the U-bolts but I'd recommend spraying some penetrating oil on the nuts and loosening them a little before you take to cutting them, if only because it's far safer to get some of the tension off the U-bolts and when they come off they won't pop or shoot off like anything crazy.
 

ali_c20

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Posts
1,024
Reaction score
1,383
Location
Austria
First Name
Alexander
Truck Year
1974, 1979
Truck Model
C20, K5
Engine Size
350, 350
grab a buddy and beer and it's done in a few hours. loosen the u bolts before you cut em and don't reuse them if you get them off in one piece.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
42,116
Posts
909,464
Members
33,611
Latest member
RNFL
Top