Dreaming of a firm....brake pedal.

[Rooster336]

My most concerning issue on my truck that I am going to tackle first is the brake system. After a nerve wracking drive home with mush under my foot and about 20 car lengths of following distance I made it back without incident.

I would appreciate some suggestions on the best way to get these brakes upgraded and not break the bank. Upon inspection I have a leaking reservoir, leaking rear drum, warped front rotors and very ragged looking brake lines that I want to replace for piece of mind. I will also most likely replace the master cylinder while I have to bleed the whole system anyway.

This is a farm truck that will eventually have a 4'' lift with 33s for moderate off-roading. Max I ever need to tow is 3,000-4,000 pounds of round bales on a flat trailer using a standard hitch.

Thanks.

 

[87scotty]

Your squeshy pedal is probably that rear wheel cylinder looks like you got thebright idea though

 

[Rooster336]

my plan is to start with the front since I am a complete novice when it comes to drums.

https://www.rockauto.com/xx/cart/?cartid=00d848beedeb11cf9ba11fe18803216c

 

[87scotty]

Just do one side at a time so you can look at the other to figure out how it goes back together

 

[MikeB]

When I did my 82 C10's brakes last year, I ended up buying the rotors and rebuilt calipers from my local O'Reilly auto parts store. Turns out it cost only a little more than buying from Rock Auto due to shipping charges on the heavy parts. Also, if something didn't fit I could drive down the street to return it. Finally, I didn't want to box up the old calipers and pay to return them for a core charge refund.

I am partial to Wagner pads, so I did buy those from Rock Auto, since O'Reilly no longer carries Wagner. After speaking with a Wagner tech guy, I bought the MX52 semi-metallic pads, and am very pleased with how my manual brakes work. I'm not sure why, but Rock Auto doesn't show the MX52 pads for your K10, so I'd suggest the SX52 Severe Duty pads.

http://www.wagnerbrake.com/products/brakes/wagner-sd-severeduty.html

BTW, you should probably buy a pair of front brake hoses. Rock Auto lists them under "hydraulic hose". Might as well buy the rear one, too.

When you do the rear drums, take pictures of both sides before you take them apart. And then disassemble & reassemble one side at a time, as suggested above. Take lots of pictures along the way.

 

[Rooster336]

I've got a NAPA close by that I can check out and price shop. It looks like one of the previous owners didn't put on new hoses when they lifted the truck. Not sure how I feel about replacing them with new stock length hoses.

 

[MikeB]

I've got a NAPA close by that I can check out and price shop. It looks like one of the previous owners didn't put on new hoses when they lifted the truck. Not sure how I feel about replacing them with new stock length hoses.

Well, when they get old, the internal braiding starts to give up which makes the hoses prone to "ballooning" a little under pressure. That means some of the pedal pressure goes to expanding the hoses. Not a very safe situation either.

It can sometimes be tough to break loose the tube nut on the inside of the frame from the hose fitting, so I'd suggest soaking it with penetrating oil a day in advance. And use a flare wrench, not an open end wrench.

 

[Rooster336]

Thanks for the insight. I didn’t know that was an issue and now will definitely pick up the new hoses.

Shoot I think I only have one size flare wrench from a plumbing project. Smart money says I won’t get lucky and will have to go buy more.

 

[Snoots]

Remembered that I took this off of a site quite some time ago. I converted it to a word document and neglected to copy over the originator of this fine example and lesson.
I hope you find it as useful as I did. And my apologies to the original writer.

 

[Rooster336]

Well, when they get old, the internal braiding starts to give up which makes the hoses prone to "ballooning" a little under pressure. That means some of the pedal pressure goes to expanding the hoses. Not a very safe situation either.

It can sometimes be tough to break loose the tube nut on the inside of the frame from the hose fitting, so I'd suggest soaking it with penetrating oil a day in advance. And use a flare wrench, not an open end wrench.

Did you replace your booster while you were at it? I don’t hear any odd noises or anything but if I’m doing everything else I figure I might as well replace it and have a whole new system.

 

[Rooster336]

Remembered that I took this off of a site quite some time ago. I converted it to a word document and neglected to copy over the originator of this fine example and lesson.
I hope you find it as useful as I did. And my apologies to the original writer.

It won’t open on my phone but when I get on the laptop I will get it open. Anything will be a help!

 

[Rooster336]

Well, when they get old, the internal braiding starts to give up which makes the hoses prone to "ballooning" a little under pressure. That means some of the pedal pressure goes to expanding the hoses. Not a very safe situation either.

It can sometimes be tough to break loose the tube nut on the inside of the frame from the hose fitting, so I'd suggest soaking it with penetrating oil a day in advance. And use a flare wrench, not an open end wrench.

Did you replace the hose from the frame to the caliper? I thought I had a firm grip on the inside but didn't and busted the hard line. Now I need to run new from the master but still cant get the dang connection apart where the hard and soft lines meet at the frame!? Any advice?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Did you replace the hose from the frame to the caliper? I thought I had a firm grip on the inside but didn't and busted the hard line. Now I need to run new from the master but still cant get the dang connection apart where the hard and soft lines meet at the frame!? Any advice?

Like Mike said, the flare wrench and the PB Blaster are your best friends here. If you strip the nut, time to break out the vice grips, and clamp them down like never before.

Generally speaking, which reservoir is leaking on your master? If it’s leaking out of the bottom, or if it’s the front reservoir for the rears, I wouldn’t worry about the booster any. Even if it’s leaking out the back where it bolts onto the booster, the booster has a nice, plump seal and is likely okay. You should be able to pump it up with a Mityvac, if you have one, and if it holds, you’re golden. It sounds like it’s leaking from under the reservoir, but anyways you’ll still need a Mityvac if you plan to bleed brakes alone. The wheel cylinder is probably the easiest brake component to change so I’d knock it out quick. When you eventually get to the rears, take plenty of pictures of each side so there’s less confusion. If you have the right tools, it’s not an awful job, but if you’re like me and try to do jobs with the wrong tools, it’ll go somewhat better with a friend helping you with the springs and what not. Throw those rotors in the trash if they’re warped or past spec thickness. I’ve gotten brake stuff from all over. Rotors and wheel cylinders from O’Reilly’s, calipers and hoses from Autozone, pads and shoes from NAPA, and MCs and Boosters from RockAuto. I’ve actually been happy with all of them so far. Don’t buy reman anything. The good brands will be cheapest online. I tried a Raybestos MC a couple days ago on my car, and it’s done fine so far in its first 100 miles. I’ve also gone with the Cardone, and while I’d be hesitant to do it again, it’s also been fine. AC Delco is gonna be the top of the line, though, and if I was rolling in the dough, that’s what I’d go with no questions.

 

[Rooster336]

Mityvac? Not sure what that is but is probably preferable to my lovely wife sitting in the drivers seat asking how long she needs to keep helping. To the google!

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

It’s a hand vacuum pump, but I gotcha. I prefer that way, too. I got my mom to do it when I did it a few days ago. You’re probably fine with the booster.