Discussion in 'For Sale' started by zieg85, Mar 27, 2017.
That's cool but it isn't a a BAT car. (Big Ass Turbo)
That's a 13.10 dialed in car, and he breaks out occasionally in the right conditions and he has had it just under 13 a few times. All naturally aspirated, No boost whatsoever.
I wouldn't mind either. I've always been against N2O. In fact, I had stickers made. But I wouldn't mind trying a real nice 88mm or 98mm Turbo. However, things have changed, cam science has improved, technology has improved, I think I would even play with a small adjustable N20 wet kit too.
Like my Photoshop job on that sticker? Baby bottle nipple instead of the valve. My skills weren't good enough to put the red circle with the line through it like No smoking signs which is what I wanted to do, but had to settle for the black X.
A nice 88mm would look especially nice hanging off one of those.
I looks good. I thought of spraying mine with a 100 shot.
But, let's not get to far off track here, but there you go folks, I6's can run, and it appears zieg85 is paring his out now.
Did you get good money out of that exhaust manifold Carl? That HEI Dizzy complete I'd think should bring at least $25. If you know for a fact that integral head isn't cracked, that alone could be a Benji and they love to crack so someone may very well be looking for that head. However, most people just find a decent used V8 instead of dealing with cracked integral heads anymore, so a $50-$75 price might entice someone on CL to pick it up. As said I wish I was closer and had some cash. I'd have no issue running an I6 in my K10/20 truck, but I'd want to find a 230 NON integral, NON emission head for it. For a trail truck you don't need a ton of horsepower. You need the torque and the money is better spent on gear and traction accessories like lockers in a 4x4.
One of the big tricks to make an I6 run good, is the head bolt bosses that go down through the top of the head and through the ports, is you grind out the bolt bosses, stud your block on the manifold side with short studs, then use crows feet and torque the nuts on the studs in the ports before you put your manifolds on. By doing so you knocked out a shit of restriction in the ports and that head breathes much better. Think about how much meat and restriction you're taking out of those ports.
Right, but if willing to spend the money to do, may as well step up a little and get the carb spray plate is adjustable from like a 100-300. IIRC, that's even a 2 solenoid plate so you can make it a wet plate. 1 solenoid for the N20, and then another solenoid for either high octane race gas or maybe even E-85 from a separate fuel cell that will only be drawn from when N20 is activated at WOT.
See we are on the same page, but where I want to run it no N2O allowed and I'm not hauling 3-4 hours to run in a street class.
Wow, that's a track that is No N20 allowed? I guess they don't like the fires. But still, you could have the plate installed. Just unhook the braided line and cap it off for inspection to run on the track.
Let me check on my 83 ... i know one of my brackets is broken and ill get back to you.
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