Cause of loose steering ? 8”lift 40”tires

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Honky Kong jr

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I think everyone says that until they change to the solid shaft and then they realize they had play in their steering shaft.
Agreed I put Jeep shafts on my Chevelle, S10 and Willy and well it’s the normal progression in a build.
 

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If you wanna get beat up by the steering wheel, knock yourself out. The rag joint is for comfort.
 

Rusty Nail

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Yeah but we're not talkin about you. We're talkin to the noob with legit concerns and you guys aren't exactly helping to dissuade his anxiety any. :33:
 

Honky Kong jr

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Yeah but we're not talkin about you. We're talkin to the noob with legit concerns and you guys aren't exactly helping to dissuade his anxiety any. :33:
I out lined what could be causing it and a few things to correct issues I saw in his pics:bleh:
 

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Check the torque on those 2 big U-bolts under and behind the steering box. See how your leaf spring pack is off center?
Mine had a 'wandering' and after much searching I found that those bolts were loose allowing the axle to move. After you've centered the spring pack in the proper place on the axle, torque 'em to 110 ft-lbs.

I'd check the torque anyway. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Check the torque on those 2 big U-bolts under and behind the steering box. See how your leaf spring pack is off center?
Mine had a 'wandering' and after much searching I found that those bolts were loose allowing the axle to move. After you've centered the spring pack in the proper place on the axle, torque 'em to 110 ft-lbs.

I'd check the torque anyway. Just my 2 cents.
If they are loose.....replace them, I’m sure they ar fatigued.
 

rpcraft

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Also, I'm not trying to be smart but those torque values sounded a little low so in the interest of safety I checked a manual for a 1986 K5/K10, because that is all I had handy, and Snoots and the original poster (and anyone that has loosened them for that matter) might want to really double check your torque values for whatever year your truck is on the front ubolt nuts. Per this manual the nuts need to be at 150 ft lb... I'm not sure if it changes from year to year or why the lift kit manufacturer would recommend a lower value, but that might explain why people often have to go back and recheck, and comparing the rear axle to the front I learned that you can't but I do know it changes from front to rear so I learned a lesson today


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Also, I'm not trying to be smart but those torque values sounded a little low so in the interest of safety I checked a manual for a 1986 K5/K10, because that is all I had handy, and Snoots and the original poster (and anyone that has loosened them for that matter) might want to really double check your torque values for whatever year your truck is on the front ubolt nuts. Per this manual the nuts need to be at 150 ft lb... I'm not sure if it changes from year to year or why the lift kit manufacturer would recommend a lower value, but that might explain why people often have to go back and recheck, and comparing the rear axle to the front I learned that you can't but I do know it changes from front to rear so I learned a lesson today


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I stand corrected sir. Sometimes I am a member of the CRAFT Club. Can't Remember A F*cking Thing!
 

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I try to be amicable and open minded enough to let people know when safety comes into play. I hate the idea of anyone out having a fun day and things go bad because of a loose nut (other than the ones behind the wheels).

It's got me wondering right now if my own 1/2 torque wrench goes up to 150....
 

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All good suggestions. Looks like that might be a 6 inch lift though.

And yes, rag joints are interlocking. But they can develop A LOT of play before the safety stops do their job. Which reminds me, my '79 really really needs a new rag joint, lol.
 

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Hey trey , nice blazer , weather you have six inch springs or eight inch springs big rubber is big rubber , (big time weight out there over stock) . If it was me I would go through the whole front end and check everything , (like the other guy's on here said). I would also pull the steering box and check for frame crack's , (mine was cracked and you could not see them). After all that the stock tie rod is a bit small for 40's and they tend to flex a bit with that size rubber , (go bigger dom tubing). A steering box brace kit is a must , (imo) for that size rubber , (ord kit or make your own). After all that cross over steering is the way to go. I swapped over to cross over on my blazer , (9 inch lift on 38's) and it drive's down the hwy. at 80mph like a dream. Even my wife like's driving it , because it drive's so well. Sack up and do it , you will be very happy.

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