Brake hose replacement

[dhamp]

Changed out my DS rotor and caliper that was orig '87 and had been sticking randomly for the past 2-3 years (I don't drive it much or far). The test drive immediately after went good. I waited about a month then drove it to work one day when the weather was nice.

On the 20 mile trek there, everything was fine. On the way home that evening, the thing started pulling to the left again. After I got up to speed for a while, it seems to let go, but when I stopped, it would drag again. About 8 miles from home, I stopped to get gas. Afterwards, I pulled out and made a left on the road. When I straightened up, I eased up my grip on the wheel and the damn thing pulled left so hard I would have hit someone head on if I'd been 1/2 second slower. By the time I got home, the DS brakes were smoking hot.

So I figure the brake hose to the caliper must be collapsed inside and not letting pressure completely off. I order the hose from RockAuto in no time. Went to put it on today, and figured I'd tackle the unknown first--where the hose bolts thru the frame. Now the million dollar question....

HOW THE HELL DO YOU TELL THAT FRIGGIN HOSE OFF!!!!

There's no room to move more than about 1/10 of a turn. Then my 5/8 flared end started stripped that little 1/8 thick nut on there, so I stopped. I tried grapped the sleeve compression sleeve attached to the hose with vise grips, but that didn't work (no surprise there but I was desperate)

Anyone have any experience with this?

 

[89Suburban]

I hate brake work and I feel yo pain and we need a good write up here on this.

 

[dhamp]

After looking at the new hose, it appears that the nut extends into the frame. Not sure if the frame hole matches the nut, or the fitting on the steel line. Guess I'm gonna have to get this one to the shop. Gonna finish the tune-up first though so I don't have to be harrassed about letting them do that too.

 

[89Suburban]

There should be a clip on the backside holding the hose fitting to the frame.

 

[dhamp]

I saw what looked like a large hexagon shaped washer on the inside of the frame where the hard line is. Is that the clip? Does it just pry off?

 

[HotRodPC]

No, the clip is pretty much just a U shape with a flange on it. You should be able to get a wide blade screwdriver, or what works even better is a small pry bar tool and pops it right off. The U shape portion should have a bit of spring like tension to it after you get it out. I have seen them lose their tension before and then need replaced because they fall right out after that.

 

[89Suburban]

If its hexagon shaped get a deep socket over it that fits and lefty loosey. But if I read what you are saying correctly you can not get the flared nut from the hard line to break loose from the hose fitting?

 

[donniesoprano]

I just did this on both of the fronts on my 82 last week. The sheet metal nut is the key, iff you can get the flare nut off. if you can't get the flare nut off (like me), you will likely need to cut the line going into the hose and replace it from the distro block.

I promise, however, that you certainly cannot turn the hose, it's keyed into the frame. I found that out the hard/dumb way.

The sheet metal nut came off really easy for me when i was able to clean it and get some of the rust off of it. if you can get your fingers on it, you might be able to get it after you get it started with some pliers.

If you cut the brakeline, you can use a deep socket to twist the nut off...it's the easiest and doesn't require much leverage.

Btw, just for s&g, I had to use a vise and some vise grips to get the hose and flare nut apart...it was bonded.

ds

 

[89Suburban]

Reps added.

 

[dhamp]

If its hexagon shaped get a deep socket over it that fits and lefty loosey. But if I read what you are saying correctly you can not get the flared nut from the hard line to break loose from the hose fitting?

No dice on the socket because the hard line is in the way. I didn't attempt breaking the nut loose on the hard line because I didn't want to lose all that fluid without knowing I could finish the job. Bought some caps today though.

My plan was to frer it from the frame 1st, then from the hard line, then the caliper last. Hoping I'll be able to work on it a little after work on Tues. Let y'all know how it goes and snap a pic this time if I fail again.

 

[HotRodPC]

No dice on the socket because the hard line is in the way. I didn't attempt breaking the nut loose on the hard line because I didn't want to lose all that fluid without knowing I could finish the job. Bought some caps today though.

My plan was to frer it from the frame 1st, then from the hard line, then the caliper last. Hoping I'll be able to work on it a little after work on Tues. Let y'all know how it goes and snap a pic this time if I fail again.

I hate those lines D !!! I've ended up twisting the metal just about everytime I've gotten frustrated with them. If you're wanting to replace the rubber hose, spray it with WD-40 and let it sit overnight. Next day, hit it with a propane torch and a little heat. No need for Mapp Gas or Acetylene. Just a little propane heat. Not to hot, you have brake fluid in the line. But some heat does do wonders in breaking that rusty junk loose. You're using a flare nut wrench too right??? I'd use nothing put the proper size flare nut wrench. That's your only hope of getting it without stripping the flare nut, and the heat is the only hope of breaking it loose without twisting the metal line and breaking it.

 

[dhamp]

I soaked 'em both down w/PB on Sat. I'll soak 'em again before I try to loosen the hard line. Yeah, I'm using flared wrenches. I also had to put a new MC in when I did the caliper and rotor. Got an SAE set then. Nothing fancy. A cheap set of Duralast. For what little I'm expecting to use them, I think they'll do fine. If that hard line gives me too much of a problem, I'll have the propane torch handy to give it a mild warming. I'd hate to burn my truck AND my house down trying to install a $15 hose. From the looks of if though, it looks pretty clean and rust free. I hope looks are deceiving in this case!

 

[robert8096]

Try removing the nut that holds the brake line to the frame and then pull the hard line and brake hose thru the frame towards the wheel. Just enough so you can get a wrench on the flare nut. You can then put a set of vice grips on the metal portion of the rubber brake hose and then use a flare wrench to loosen the hard line from the rubber line. It is a pain in the ass no matter how you go about it. Good Luck

 

[89Suburban]

Try removing the nut that holds the brake line to the frame and then pull the hard line and brake hose thru the frame towards the wheel. Just enough so you can get a wrench on the flare nut. You can then put a set of vice grips on the metal portion of the rubber brake hose and then use a flare wrench to loosen the hard line from the rubber line. It is a pain in the ass no matter how you go about it. Good Luck

This, maybe even see if a dremel or tin snips or something can reach in there and cut the tin nut.

 

[robert8096]

Most of the time the tin nut is not a that much of a problem. I can usually tap that loose with a long screw driver and small hammer.