90-91 VSS Electronic Gauge Cluster to Analog Speedo Models

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dougbert

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In my build thread I cover searching for gauges on my LS swap (see signature for link) since my NP241c generates a VSS signal and not a cable.

I bought a Intellitronix digital gauge set, but didn't like it not working, so I found a 90-91 Suburban gauge cluster off of ebay. Its speedo runs off of a VSS signal so it should work. When I received the cluster, I repined the IP plug for the suburban and test fired it up on the bench. Several illumination bulbs were burned out so I got some bulbs from my parts bin and ran into a hitch

The suburban cluster lamps were fixed in their sockets AND the holes in the suburban cluster were SMALLER than the holes in the 81-87 cluster.

But I found sockets that accept a wedge lamp (including LEDs) from www.superbrightleds.com

T3.25S-TW @ www.supperbrightleds.com

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ocket/704/962/


So documenting this information here in a center location and not just my build thread


link to my repining post: http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showpost.php?p=340261&postcount=332


81-87 STOCK CLUSTER PLUG WIRING

Pin #, function, and color

1 High Beam Light Green

2 Dash Lights Gray

3 Ground Black

4 12v Keyed Power Pink/Black

5 Oil Pressure Tan

6 12v Keyed Power Punk/Black

7 Fuel Gauge Pink

8 Ground Black

9 Water/Coolant Temp Turquoise

10 Ground Black

11 Left Turn Light Blue

12 Right Turn Dark Blue

13 Seat Belt Yellow

14 Empty

15 Oil/Choke Dark Blue

16 12v Keyed Power Pink/Black

17 Brake Warn Tan/White

18 Fuel Gauge Pink



AFTER THE REPINING for the suburban cluster

Plug Diagram After Repining

Pin #, function, and color

1 High Beam Light Green

2 Ground Black

3 Oil Pressure Tan

4 12v Keyed Pink/Black (Tie #17 with this wire)

5 Alternator I put a Dark Green wire that was removed
from a different number. It would have been thrown away but I reused it.

6 Empty

7 Empty

8 Water/Coolant Temp Dark Blue

9 Dash Lights Gray

10 Left Turn Turquoise

11 Right Turn Dark Blue

12 4x4 status light

13 Seat belt Warn Yellow

14 Fuel Gauge Pink

15 Brake Warn Light Tan/White

16 Check Engine Light (wire from your LS Harness (You will need to add a wire here. I used one that was removed while repining)

17 12v Keyed Power Pink/Black (Tie this wire to # 4)

18 VSS Speed Wire (You will have to add a wire here after the repining. I used one that was already removed here also)

dougbert

pic of twist socket
 

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HotRodPC

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Damn, this is a tough one. You've got it in the right category, BUT.... BUT... I'm thinking this info is better to be used and found in the LS Swap Section of Engine Performance and possibly even made into a STICKY. :shrug: Opinions? Then I'll clean up the thread with the opinions discussion. @Old77 @bucket @RetroC10Sport
 

HotRodPC

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And hmmm, I'm almost thinking it really does fit in BOTH spots, but with different titles. There are other reasons than an LS Swap that people may want to convert to a VSS Speedo. In all actuality, it is more about the Electronic Speedo than the entire cluster. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on that deal without waiting on opinions, just cuz I can, but don't take offense @dougbert when you see your titles changed. Good info that we need to be able to be found in the forum and via Search Engines.
 

Old77

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I agree. Is sticky worthy. Maybe stick it in both spots and make a duplicate copy of the thread for the second spot?
 

HotRodPC

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I agree. Is sticky worthy. Maybe stick it in both spots and make a duplicate copy of the thread for the second spot?

Uhhh yeah, that's what I decided to do. I made that big ole executive decision and did it already. :laughing1: The more I thought about it, it just made sense.
 

Old77

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Fine!! Now I feel worthless :bawl:


:slap:
 

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Old77

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:whymewhyme:
 

dougbert

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I received the order of 2 lamp/socket combos from GM, which they indicate go into the 91 suburban cluster

here are pics of them and their part number. BTW, they are expensive

part 25089349 is $7.16
part 25089350 is $9.79
shipping was $10.35

ordered from GMPartsGiant.com

I prefer the socket from supperbrightleds.com for $1.10 or so each:

cheaper
lamp is separate from the socket


dougbert
 

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HotRodPC

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I received the order of 2 lamp/socket combos from GM, which they indicate go into the 91 suburban cluster

here are pics of them and their part number. BTW, they are expensive

part 25089349 is $7.16
part 25089350 is $9.79
shipping was $10.35

ordered from GMPartsGiant.com

I prefer the socket from supperbrightleds.com for $1.10 or so each:

cheaper
lamp is separate from the socket


dougbert
At least they're made in the Mainland China, not just China. I guess that means they weren't made by a 10yo in a grass hut.
 

dougbert

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Built a test harness for the suburban cluster tonight.

I used test leads with alligator clips on them. Cut them in half and soldered to the wire leads of the extra male Instrument Panel plug I bought. see last pic

I tested everything except for the speedometer (since I don't have a sine wave/pulse generator) VSS input.

Grounded oil, fuel and water leads. Oil and fuel moved to 0, while water pegged max, all expected

LEFT and RIGHT turns turned on.

HI BEAM also lit up

I added blue LEDs to the lights and they work. I had one light which did not work with one brand of socket and I looked and saw a missing copper segment. I found another socket and did work (one I bought from GM)

I got the BRAKE to light up, by grounding the lead. Same with the CEL (Service Engine Soon) light. 4x4 and SEAT BELT lights lit up by touching 12volts.

The only lead that did not work was the ALT wire. Then I pondered things and I think it goes to a light source in the lower left gauge position. I will test out the circuit board and follow the trace for that wire.


So I tested the suburban cluster and it works. Tested very well on the table top and saved me from trying the test in the vehicle

dougbert
 

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dougbert

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gauge pictures all powered up - except for the speedo



Completed task #7 from the TODO list: DONE Cluster tested


Need to install the Tach now

dougbert
 

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HotRodPC

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I don't want to completely hi jack your thread here Doug, but this is on topic here too so we'll just consider it an addition to your thread.

This is my Instrument Cluster from a 91 Burb C10 Silverado OEM TBI 350 and 700r4.

It all seems in good shape though I've not tested it like you have yours. I see no reason it won't work since I was driving this truck that just had a blown head gasket and all the gauges seemed to work fine with what little I drove it, and it sure let me know when it overheated.
This one has a Red Battery light where the clock would go. Not sure if it's a working light or not but it does have a bulb socket behind the red battery overlay. :shrug:

The only issue I have with this one, is the trip odometer doesn't seem to want to reset. If I push the knob hard, I can get it to change the 10ths but it won't grab the other 3 so I can reset it to OOO.0.

I was going to take the speedo out and see if the Trip Odo can be worked on or replaced separately. I can't see to figure out how to get that damn plug on the back side out. I don't want to force it and break something. So do you know what the big trick is to get that plug to release?
 

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dougbert

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Engine Size
5.3L - 2002 Silverado, rebuilt top end, long tube headers
I don't want to completely hi jack your thread here Doug, but this is on topic here too so we'll just consider it an addition to your thread.

This is my Instrument Cluster from a 91 Burb C10 Silverado OEM TBI 350 and 700r4.

It all seems in good shape though I've not tested it like you have yours. I see no reason it won't work since I was driving this truck that just had a blown head gasket and all the gauges seemed to work fine with what little I drove it, and it sure let me know when it overheated.
This one has a Red Battery light where the clock would go. Not sure if it's a working light or not but it does have a bulb socket behind the red battery overlay. :shrug:

The only issue I have with this one, is the trip odometer doesn't seem to want to reset. If I push the knob hard, I can get it to change the 10ths but it won't grab the other 3 so I can reset it to OOO.0.

I was going to take the speedo out and see if the Trip Odo can be worked on or replaced separately. I can't see to figure out how to get that damn plug on the back side out. I don't want to force it and break something. So do you know what the big trick is to get that plug to release?


I did release that plug on mine, but don't remember how at this point. I will take a look as the cluster is only part way install

dougbert
 

HotRodPC

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That would be great if you can recall how to do it. I just don't want to hurt it. If I can fix the trip then I'll put it on eBay for sale as a working unit. If not, I'll sell it here here cheap for parts. I'd like to hold onto this for way in the future ideas, but needing cash so it's gotta go pretty quick.
 

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