88-98 Chevys, 99-02 Chevys, and 94-01 Dodges.

[Iowan]

Many of you may know that I had to sell off my Square . Now I'm looking for a newer truck, mostly because my parents.

88-98 Chevys I want to know if after 100k miles you've had electrical problems in the truck.

99-02 Chevys, anything I need to know before I purchase them?

94-01 Rams what are some problems?

5.3 vs 6.0 Vortecs, whats your favorite?

Does a 1 ton with a 350 consume more gas than a 1/2 ton?

Can a flatbed articulate the same way a OEM style bed can?

Is the distance from the seat to the pedals increase between the 1500 to the 2500 to the 3500.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I know a bunch of people with 88 up trucks and dirt really hear to many complaints other then brake issues
Don’t know too much about the next generation
The Dodge LA engines aren’t to bad except for the 360s losing main bearings. And well transmission issues it’s a dodge thing. And rust.
6.0 will be 3/4 ton 4.8 and 5.3 1/2 ton
I’m sure it will the 1 ton is heavier
A flat bed will be more rigid and more then likely do one of two things or both either put more stress on the frame or have the suspension work harder due to being more rigid
No

 

[CSFJ]

1) 1988 silverado 198,000+ miles. Owned for over 3 years, no electrical problems to speak of.
2) they rust almost as fast as a dodge. Brake lines in particular
3) everything attached to the ram logo
4) 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Try for one that doesn't have variable displacement (cylinder deac)
5) really? You need to ask this? Gear ratio has everything to do with mileage.
6) it bolts to the frame the same way, doesn't it?
7) same cab, same dash, probably the same seat, what do you think?

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

If any of the 96-99 GMT400s still have the spider injection setup, people had issues with those. Otherwise, it's as solid as anything else. Those things are everywhere for a reason, I'd argue. I wouldn't run out and buy one probably ever unless it was free or I was in a bind for a pickup and the price was at rock bottom, but if I was, I'd go with an 88-95 because that's TBI, and I know those pretty well. Plus, it's pre-SRS. Stupid government. The passenger car impact bumpers from the 70s and 80s don't upset me, but airbags are annoying to me. I know Gen I and III Vortec some, but you can't diagnose those like a TBI or CCC car or truck. What I mean by that, is TBI literature is everywhere, and it's very simple to work on. When it's free of bugs, it's super reliable. You need to have a decent OBDII scan tool for earlier stuff, probably around 96-02/03. I don't mean dealership level or anything, but an aftermarket tool that can get in there a little bit and give you some good info instead of just telling you Code P0740 and goodnight. On a TBI, it's a paperclip that you swiped from somewhere earlier or a four dollar homemade Chinese scan tool and some public domain software if you really want a top of the line setup.

I have some experience with my mom's '02 Suburban 1500 with a 5.3. That has been an excellent vehicle. It's starting to show its age now with needing more complex maintenance more frequently, but even then it's still good, and all vehicles do that. It's probably got around 225,000 miles on it. I like the traditional stuff so no the no distributor, coil-near-plug setup bothers me. The drive by wire also doesn't agree with me. The heater core, condenser, and blower being hidden under the dash gets on my nerves. I know the heater core is hidden in a square, but that's one thing, and my daily has it under the hood, not in the dash, which made changing it a breeze. They're good vehicles, but GM started going in the wrong direction with their stuff in 1996 trying to make it more and more complicated (in my opinion), and they arrived there some time ago for me, but that being said, I don't think it was immediate. I could rant all day, but I'll never buy a newer vehicle because I'm completely in control of what I need to get done with my older current and desired vehicles. It's a personal preference, though. You should be just fine with an earlier GMT800. It'll get you there and back completely reliably. The desirability of Gen III motors for swaps speaks for itself.

I don't know if I'd get the round style Ram. What about a 86-96(97) Ford? Those guys are everywhere, and my dad was in love with his '96 F350 7.3. Honestly, I like the square body design so until '91. I'm ambivalent on the GMT400 so I'll say no preference for or against. Ford held onto their good looks until 1997 if it was bigger than a half ton. '96 if not. And Dodge kept theirs until 1993. I know everyone says they used it for too long, and I agree, but it's still a good looking style. After these, I pretty much tune out with respect to my preferences. They all did a round style of normal proportions, and then they all got huge after those respective styles ended.

 

[Iowan]

1) 1988 silverado 198,000+ miles. Owned for over 3 years, no electrical problems to speak of.
2) they rust almost as fast as a dodge. Brake lines in particular
3) everything attached to the ram logo
4) 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Try for one that doesn't have variable displacement (cylinder deac)
5) really? You need to ask this? Gear ratio has everything to do with mileage.
6) it bolts to the frame the same way, doesn't it?
7) same cab, same dash, probably the same seat, what do you think?

Variable displacement?
5,Well I understand that gearing makes the difference, but I meant is it heavier with the suspension being beefier and the rear axle being larger.
7, I figured so.

If any of the 96-99 GMT400s still have the spider injection setup, people had issues with those. Otherwise, it's as solid as anything else. Those things are everywhere for a reason, I'd argue. I wouldn't run out and buy one probably ever unless it was free or I was in a bind for a pickup and the price was at rock bottom, but if I was, I'd go with an 88-95 because that's TBI, and I know those pretty well. Plus, it's pre-SRS. Stupid government. The passenger car impact bumpers from the 70s and 80s don't upset me, but airbags are annoying to me. I know Gen I and III Vortec some, but you can't diagnose those like a TBI or CCC car or truck. What I mean by that, is TBI literature is everywhere, and it's very simple to work on. When it's free of bugs, it's super reliable. You need to have a decent OBDII scan tool for earlier stuff, probably around 96-02/03. I don't mean dealership level or anything, but an aftermarket tool that can get in there a little bit and give you some good info instead of just telling you Code P0740 and goodnight. On a TBI, it's a paperclip that you swiped from somewhere earlier or a four dollar homemade Chinese scan tool and some public domain software if you really want a top of the line setup.

I have some experience with my mom's '02 Suburban 1500 with a 5.3. That has been an excellent vehicle. It's starting to show its age now with needing more complex maintenance more frequently, but even then it's still good, and all vehicles do that. It's probably got around 225,000 miles on it. I like the traditional stuff so no the no distributor, coil-near-plug setup bothers me. The drive by wire also doesn't agree with me. The heater core, condenser, and blower being hidden under the dash gets on my nerves. I know the heater core is hidden in a square, but that's one thing, and my daily has it under the hood, not in the dash, which made changing it a breeze. They're good vehicles, but GM started going in the wrong direction with their stuff in 1996 trying to make it more and more complicated (in my opinion), and they arrived there some time ago for me, but that being said, I don't think it was immediate. I could rant all day, but I'll never buy a newer vehicle because I'm completely in control of what I need to get done with my older current and desired vehicles. It's a personal preference, though. You should be just fine with an earlier GMT800. It'll get you there and back completely reliably. The desirability of Gen III motors for swaps speaks for itself.

I don't know if I'd get the round style Ram. What about a 86-96(97) Ford? Those guys are everywhere, and my dad was in love with his '96 F350 7.3. Honestly, I like the square body design so until '91. I'm ambivalent on the GMT400 so I'll say no preference for or against. Ford held onto their good looks until 1997 if it was bigger than a half ton. '96 if not. And Dodge kept theirs until 1993. I know everyone says they used it for too long, and I agree, but it's still a good looking style. After these, I pretty much tune out with respect to my preferences. They all did a round style of normal proportions, and then they all got huge after those respective styles ended.

Thanks! I did find a 93, Are they pretty good?

Thanks guys!!! @RustyPile

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

1993 is good. That's the first year for a 4L60E, and it's got a PCM instead of an ECM, but the diagnostic process is the same. They switched the gauges from the earlier weird ones to something more normal in 1992. Fairly solid.

 

[CSFJ]

Variable displacement?
5,Well I understand that gearing makes the difference, but I meant is it heavier with the suspension being beefier and the rear axle being larger.
7, I figured so.




Thanks! I did find a 93, Are they pretty good?

Thanks guys!!! @RustyPile

Yeah, variable displacemnent. At some point GM started deactivating cylinders on the LS engines in a bid to improve mileage when you didn't need the full displacement of the engine, like when you're cruising at partial throttle. That's when the oil consumption problems began.

The suspension and axle upgrades between 1/2 and 1 ton trucks only add a couple hundred pounds to the package. That's not enough to worry about in the general scope of things. The gearing in the axles is where the biggest change in mileage comes from.

 

[Crispy]

88-98 Chevys I want to know if after 100k miles you've had electrical problems in the truck. I had a 96-98(some 99 and 00 also) Tahoe with a vortec 350 with 176k and my fuel guage was crazy and had a fuel delivery issue. Even with a new pump I had low pressure (about 45-48psi). Intake manifold gaskets were weak from the factory, aftermarket gaskets correct the problem. ABS light would randomly come on. Rust prone brake lines if not cleaned and cared for.

99-02 Chevys, anything I need to know before I purchase them? They are fuel sensitive too, the need full pressure to operate correctly. Stay on top of fuel filter changes and if the pump goes buy an oem replacement. Same brake line issue. Same gauge issues but they have replacement motors available.

94-01 Rams what are some problems? RUST! People with 2nd gen Cummins trucks think they have a license to print money and ask way too much for them. Oh and more rust. Dash board cracking. Rust. Terrible fuel mileage, except for the diesel. Rust. On the plus side they have solid front axles over the Chevy's. Of course that means you need to stay on top of your steering parts, suspension, and bushings otherwise you will get the ol death wobble.

5.3 vs 6.0 Vortecs, whats your favorite? Thats subjective and both can be built to last, built to run, and be reliable.


Is the distance from the seat to the pedals increase between the 1500 to the 2500 to the 3500. No

 

[Honky Kong jr]

88-98 Chevys I want to know if after 100k miles you've had electrical problems in the truck. I had a 96-98(some 99 and 00 also) Tahoe with a vortec 350 with 176k and my fuel guage was crazy and had a fuel delivery issue. Even with a new pump I had low pressure (about 45-48psi). Intake manifold gaskets were weak from the factory, aftermarket gaskets correct the problem. ABS light would randomly come on. Rust prone brake lines if not cleaned and cared for.

99-02 Chevys, anything I need to know before I purchase them? They are fuel sensitive too, the need full pressure to operate correctly. Stay on top of fuel filter changes and if the pump goes buy an oem replacement. Same brake line issue. Same gauge issues but they have replacement motors available.

94-01 Rams what are some problems? RUST! People with 2nd gen Cummins trucks think they have a license to print money and ask way too much for them. Oh and more rust. Dash board cracking. Rust. Terrible fuel mileage, except for the diesel. Rust. On the plus side they have solid front axles over the Chevy's. Of course that means you need to stay on top of your steering parts, suspension, and bushings otherwise you will get the ol death wobble.

5.3 vs 6.0 Vortecs, whats your favorite? Thats subjective and both can be built to last, built to run, and be reliable.


Is the distance from the seat to the pedals increase between the 1500 to the 2500 to the 3500. No

Dodge front axles suck with that dumb ass vacuum actuated locking mechanism but a Posi Lock fixes that and they eat ball joints and the 2500s eat axle U-joints it’s a 44 in the 1500s but with dodge fukary

 

[bluex]

99+ chevys rust easily, rockers, cab corners, arches over the back wheels and in the frame where its boxed in the front and curves up to the body and around all the crossmembers. Power window motors are always going out, steering shaft and or upper column bearing rattles, outside door handles break, interior rattles (but thats just a GM thing in general) parking brakes suck on the ones with rear disc, gauge cluster issues, blend or mode door acutators in the HVAC, low mount a/c compressors get damaged by slugging.

88-98 is a much better truck IMO but it has issues to, interior door handles break easily, spider injectors and/or FPR, intake gaskets, fuel pump or sending units are common, ignition issues with the 96+ vortec can drive you nuts.

But all together if I had a choice betwen two similar condition/mileage trucks and one was a 96-98 and the other a 99+ I'd take the 96-98 everytime. I think its a better built vehicle but as with any of them once you get to know all the common issues and either carry parts to fix it or keep them around for minimum downtime they both make pretty reliable daily drivers.

 

[bucket]

99+ chevys rust easily, rockers, cab corners, arches over the back wheels and in the frame where its boxed in the front and curves up to the body and around all the crossmembers. Power window motors are always going out, steering shaft and or upper column bearing rattles, outside door handles break, interior rattles (but thats just a GM thing in general) parking brakes suck on the ones with rear disc, gauge cluster issues, blend or mode door acutators in the HVAC, low mount a/c compressors get damaged by slugging.

88-98 is a much better truck IMO but it has issues to, interior door handles break easily, spider injectors and/or FPR, intake gaskets, fuel pump or sending units are common, ignition issues with the 96+ vortec can drive you nuts.

But all together if I had a choice betwen two similar condition/mileage trucks and one was a 96-98 and the other a 99+ I'd take the 96-98 everytime. I think its a better built vehicle but as with any of them once you get to know all the common issues and either carry parts to fix it or keep them around for minimum downtime they both make pretty reliable daily drivers.

I've worked on more than my fair share of both generations of these trucks, I like both. But I do honestly think that as far as body and frames go, the 800 style is a better built truck. I've only actually owned two of them, but both have been relatively rattle free (I do hate my '00 Burb's center dash cupholder though, it's worthless garbage) all around. And I find the 800 style easier to work on in most cases too.

But again, I like both styles.

 

[Iowan]

Yeah, variable displacemnent. At some point GM started deactivating cylinders on the LS engines in a bid to improve mileage when you didn't need the full displacement of the engine, like when you're cruising at partial throttle. That's when the oil consumption problems began.

The suspension and axle upgrades between 1/2 and 1 ton trucks only add a couple hundred pounds to the package. That's not enough to worry about in the general scope of things. The gearing in the axles is where the biggest change in mileage comes from.

That's dumb that they'd do that. And I thought so.

88-98 Chevys I want to know if after 100k miles you've had electrical problems in the truck. I had a 96-98(some 99 and 00 also) Tahoe with a vortec 350 with 176k and my fuel guage was crazy and had a fuel delivery issue. Even with a new pump I had low pressure (about 45-48psi). Intake manifold gaskets were weak from the factory, aftermarket gaskets correct the problem. ABS light would randomly come on. Rust prone brake lines if not cleaned and cared for.

99-02 Chevys, anything I need to know before I purchase them? They are fuel sensitive too, the need full pressure to operate correctly. Stay on top of fuel filter changes and if the pump goes buy an oem replacement. Same brake line issue. Same gauge issues but they have replacement motors available.

94-01 Rams what are some problems? RUST! People with 2nd gen Cummins trucks think they have a license to print money and ask way too much for them. Oh and more rust. Dash board cracking. Rust. Terrible fuel mileage, except for the diesel. Rust. On the plus side they have solid front axles over the Chevy's. Of course that means you need to stay on top of your steering parts, suspension, and bushings otherwise you will get the ol death wobble.

5.3 vs 6.0 Vortecs, whats your favorite? Thats subjective and both can be built to last, built to run, and be reliable.


Is the distance from the seat to the pedals increase between the 1500 to the 2500 to the 3500. No

Wow thanks for the info!!

Honestly I want another Square!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[shiftpro]

Flat bed...
Depends how it is made. If it has a big headache rack it might lessen frame flex.
Is frame flex good or bed...?
Again depends how you use the truck. If you're actually 4wheeling over uneven terrain, the flex will allow better taction...
until the frame is ****** then your ****** and everything is ******. Excessive frame flex wears out frames real quick.
Best to have a rigid frame and flexy springs and long shock... leave the anti-sway bar hanging from the rafters.

 

[Iowan]

Well the real purpose for me at least would be....Farm work, seeing a few friends, Bein' MERICAN, helping move people , hunting, mudding, and driving to work. But lots of farm work and maybe a small lumber business. So if I buy a short bed can I extend the frame to make it a long bed? Thanks!!

 

[CSFJ]

Well the real purpose for me at least would be....Farm work, seeing a few friends, Bein' MERICAN, helping move people , hunting, mudding, and driving to work. But lots of farm work and maybe a small lumber business. So if I buy a short bed can I extend the frame to make it a long bed? Thanks!!

If you're talking about a square, there is no point in lengthening a short bed. They made far more of the long bed models, that would be a far cheaper buy in than a shorty. If you're talking about a newer body, the short beds were never made to do what you're asking from it. Find a 3/4 ton 8' box and be done with it.