8 inch Lift

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shiftpro

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The Truck will only used on asphalt its not gonna be an offroad Truck, Im deffintly gonna raise it 8 inches but wasnt sure if I should do the 8" Springs, or if perhaps theres an alternative such as 6 inch springs with 2" block or reverse shackles ect. just to provide a little better ride. This is my first time lifting a square body.
Ok so it's a mall cruiser. That makes it easier.
Superlift makes 8" lift springs but they ride like a brick *********. Mostly because the extreme arch. The flatter the spring the better it bends.
I think a good option would be 6" Softride springs up front, and you CAN NOT use blocks on your front diff, rear only.
Ok having said that, there is one and only one type of lift 'block' that can work on the front end and it's called a Zero-Rate or Easy-Inch.
It bolts into your leaf pack just like adding another leaf. It also has pin off-sets so you can move your axle forward to rearward 1"
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero Rates.htm
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17722&cat=250&page=1
 

shiftpro

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For the rear leafs a shackle reverse kit and 6" lift springs. Can also use an Zero-rate.

Now with 6" lift leafs front and rear, zero-rate and 1" max body lift there you go.

You will also need to lengthen your driveshafts, and brake lines.
 

shiftpro

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Steering will be a nastly bitch. Yes I meant nastly. You can run a drop steering arm and a raised pitman arm but it's hokey and weak.
Donky **** knows what I'm going to say next....
 

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Is your front end a GM 10 bolt or D44?

If it's a D44 ti's much easier to find a passenger side steering knuckle, with a flat spot on top to fix an steering arm to.

No doubt you want to run big tires...eh?
What size are you dreaming about?
I'm asking this because well, your GM 10 bolt/D44 axle is not strong enough (for real world wheeling) for anything over 33". But in your case,
lifted road truck you can get away with either.
 

shiftpro

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The 51" spring mod I mentioned used rear 51" leaf springs on the front. Gives huge travel and flex.
But you need one of these kits...
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17715&cat=250&page=1

The stock front spring perch is removed and a little forward gets mounted the one from the kit I'm showing you. This bracket also serves
as front clip and rad support.

Then you need shocks about 3' long.
 

shiftpro

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Another possible issue with the GM10 bolt/D44 is the lowest ratio gear set that will fit inside. I don't have this info, but I suspect you might
not be able to gear these puppies down enough for really big tires.

What engine/transmission/tc are you running. You want to make sure you have enough poop to get it out of it's own way.
If you want like over 36" tires, even geared properly you still need a big bag of peanuts to get them moving.
 

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Another possible issue with the GM10 bolt/D44 is the lowest ratio gear set that will fit inside. I don't have this info, but I suspect you might
not be able to gear these puppies down enough for really big tires.

What engine/transmission/tc are you running. You want to make sure you have enough poop to get it out of it's own way.
If you want like over 36" tires, even geared properly you still need a big bag of peanuts to get them moving.
the pinion on a 4.56 set is tiny and prone to breaking. I have 3.73s in my 12 and 10 bolt, but have a 2.62 low range and a big block. A little one but it’s a snappy one lol
 

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Is your front end a GM 10 bolt or D44?

If it's a D44 ti's much easier to find a passenger side steering knuckle, with a flat spot on top to fix an steering arm to.

No doubt you want to run big tires...eh?
What size are you dreaming about?
I'm asking this because well, your GM 10 bolt/D44 axle is not strong enough (for real world wheeling) for anything over 33". But in your case,
lifted road truck you can get away with either.
Whatever the truck came with originally is what is still in it....it wont be used offroad.....I'm gonna need to re read all this info lol
 

Honky Kong jr

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Whatever the truck came with originally is what is still in it....it wont be used offroad.....I'm gonna need to re read all this info lol
28 spline 10 bolts front and rear.
 

mavtricks71

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For the rear leafs a shackle reverse kit and 6" lift springs. Can also use an Zero-rate.

Now with 6" lift leafs front and rear, zero-rate and 1" max body lift there you go.

You will also need to lengthen your driveshafts, and brake lines.
So if I did 6" softride spring on front and a 1" easy inch... I'm at 7 inches right in the front? you mentioned body lift I don't want to do that? max body lift?
 

Honky Kong jr

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So if I did 6" softride spring on front and a 1" easy inch... I'm at 7 inches right in the front? you mentioned body lift I don't want to do that? max body lift?
He’s a body lift hater lol, but he gave me an exemption, because of why I needed it.:D
 

Rusty Nail

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Most ppl hate on body lifts but only because that's weak poser **** and it sucks.

PLUS it looks bad.
1" max.
 

mavtricks71

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He’s a body lift hater lol, but he gave me an exemption, because of why I needed it.:D
Well it's not so much as that ... I have Cystic Fibrosis and my lung capacity is down to 40% so I'm trying to find easiest way for me...I figured that just doing suspension would be easiest.
 

mavtricks71

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Ok so it's a mall cruiser. That makes it easier.
Superlift makes 8" lift springs but they ride like a brick *********. Mostly because the extreme arch. The flatter the spring the better it bends.
I think a good option would be 6" Softride springs up front, and you CAN NOT use blocks on your front diff, rear only.
Ok having said that, there is one and only one type of lift 'block' that can work on the front end and it's called a Zero-Rate or Easy-Inch.
It bolts into your leaf pack just like adding another leaf. It also has pin off-sets so you can move your axle forward to rearward 1"
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero Rates.htm
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17722&cat=250&page=1
Do you recommend Skyjacker brand 6" springs over Superlift?
 

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