700r4 Issues

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Splandman

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I'm curious which one of the Street Outlaw guys shops installed the Holly Sniper.

Comstock. Dave did not actually do the work but it was his shop and he was there when I picked it up. While his employee was showing me some features on the Sniper when I picked it up, Dave came out with the box and put it in my other truck. I assumed it had my carb in it. When I took the box out of the truck several days later I found out it wasn't in there. I called a few times, my wife went by there on her way to work, never got to talk to Dave about the carb, his worker just said it was misplaced or thrown away...who throws out a carb? I won't be back for sure. I wanted that carb because I buy a lot of these old trucks, nice to have an extra Qjet laying around.

If your shift points are off, ESPECIALLY IF TO EARLY on a 700r4. STOP !!!

I thought this was the issue (TV cable) and took it back to A&A twice to be checked. He assured me it was adjusted properly. Out of coincidence, this guy has been on Street Outlaws too. I didn't know that when I first went to him, found out when I picked up the truck the first time. He builds the trans for Farm Truck and John Andrade.

but in your case a combination of TV cable misadjusment, possible stuck TV valve in the VB, and the wrong weights or springs in the governor...

I had done some reading and thought maybe I needed one of the kits for the governor in order to change the shift points.
 

Cuba

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Cool, we've got another female on board. You know a few have come but they don't last long. We're guys around here and just to be honest, it's more like dudes hanging out in the garage so they usually don't stay. However, if you can tough it out and tolerate the guy ******** immaturity and horseplay, we'd sure like to keep you around. Especially if you know your ****.

Totally missed this post...LOL Yeah, I prefer the garage... I prefer the immaturity & horseplay versus hair, makeup & nails...


I know he said DD and not a dragster but he did say 450hp 450ft lb or torque, now c'mon girl, if you got that kind of torque, don't tell me you're not gonna have the skinny pedal on the floor from time to time, and 450ft lbs, isn't no grocery gitter !!! :laughing1: And for sure, the #1 killer on the 700r4 and the 3/4 clutch pack is heat so even for a DD, gotta add a cooler IMO without bypassing the radiator cooler but as an added cooler.

100% agree.. I missed the torque specs on the engine too looks like... but these can definitely handle more torque than 350 when done right.. quite possibly to 550.. seen them done here with no issues long term. Not too crazy with trans mods either.. beefed up a few key components like the shell, few shafts.. and of course good quality overhaul kit.
 

HotRodPC

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Sonnax smart tech input drum...
That's a fairly pricey drum. You can sleeve the input shaft/drum in a much cheaper kit. Otherwise the other big modification is the bolt on pressure plate at the back of the drum. Again, if you're going to spend $400-500 on a single drum for a 700r4, may as well go 4L80-E. For that kind of money you've done bought the stand alone conroller. JMO
 

Cuba

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The only other thing I wish the Jr kit had was the .500 boost valve. I don't think they put it in the kit because they want it to be a kit that can be installed wo removing the transmission. The pump has to come out for the boost valve.

No it doesn't, pump definitely does not have to come out. My 1st trans mod, I installed the .500 Boost Valve. It can be accessed from the pan area. You're correct, it does not come with the Jr kit though. This is one of things you must remove anyway to do mods on the PR Valve if not already done too.

Certainly a PITA to do because of the deep bore... just to get to the snap ring...
 

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Comstock. Dave did not actually do the work but it was his shop and he was there when I picked it up. While his employee was showing me some features on the Sniper when I picked it up, Dave came out with the box and put it in my other truck. I assumed it had my carb in it. When I took the box out of the truck several days later I found out it wasn't in there. I called a few times, my wife went by there on her way to work, never got to talk to Dave about the carb, his worker just said it was misplaced or thrown away...who throws out a carb? I won't be back for sure. I wanted that carb because I buy a lot of these old trucks, nice to have an extra Qjet laying around.



I thought this was the issue (TV cable) and took it back to A&A twice to be checked. He assured me it was adjusted properly. Out of coincidence, this guy has been on Street Outlaws too. I didn't know that when I first went to him, found out when I picked up the truck the first time. He builds the trans for Farm Truck and John Andrade.



I had done some reading and thought maybe I needed one of the kits for the governor in order to change the shift points.


Yep, Comstocks Automotive on NW 39th. I'd be pist too. Dave isn't even there much anymore. But still it's his shop and he should take responsibility for it. When I see him again, I'll sure bring it up. That's some ********. I'd have been pissed and demanded it back. You know damn good and well it wasn't thrown away.
 

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No it doesn't, pump definitely does not have to come out. My 1st trans mod, I installed the .500 Boost Valve. It can be accessed from the pan area. You're correct, it does not come with the Jr kit though. This is one of things you must remove anyway to do mods on the PR Valve if not already done too.

Certainly a PITA to do because of the deep bore... just to get to the snap ring...
Now that you mention it... I'd say you're right. I've always installed it on builds and when I got to the pump, that was done then, not after the fact from the pan side where it is accessible. I didn't even think of that. So you just pull the snap ring and it should fall out wo removing the transmission.
 

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correct... and when going back in be sure to have Assemblee lube to hold a few of those things together. Best to have a buddy hold everything up in the bore with a skinny driver while 2nd person installing the snap ring (when it comes time for reassembly). Sometime the snapring pliers have to be modified too... the sides ground down some. That bore I tell ya!
 

Splandman

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Yep, Comstocks Automotive on NW 39th. I'd be pist too. Dave isn't even there much anymore. But still it's his shop and he should take responsibility for it. When I see him again, I'll sure bring it up. That's some ********. I'd have been pissed and demanded it back. You know damn good and well it wasn't thrown away.

His shop is over in Edmond off Broadway behind Whataburger. 19 W. 5th Street. He is not there too much because he is always out racing or promoting I guess. I could not get him on the phone so I finally left a long message for him through his website. Never heard back. I just moved on and will not use them again. I haven't bothered bashing them online or their FB page. In fact, this is the first time I mentioned it to people other than family members.

It was a little strange since Brian at A&A also knows Dave. I believe Brian even called him about the TV cable being adjusted poorly. One of my issues is that with it being my daily, I don't have the time for people to figure out who is blaming who and paying for what. I need the damn thing running.

I can say this, out of all the people I have worked with, the machine shop in Enid, Dunsworth Machine, are the only ones I am happy with. My engine runs fantastic and after the Sniper was installed it really came alive. I will definitely use them again if I can ever afford another build.
 

Cuba

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I had done some reading and thought maybe I needed one of the kits for the governor in order to change the shift points.

This is good idea too. I'm rusty on which weights to use when adjusting, but they'll be the bigger changes in shift points... then the springs are for the fine tuning. Checkout YouTube. When I initially started doing my homework, this was a great visual on how things worked.

Provided that the issue with your trans this time around isn't catastrophic... these are definitely things you want to be informed about. Governor, TV cable adjustment... road testing WITH the person working on the vehicle. This way problems that arise are in front of whomever worked on it. Take turns driving. I really hope all goes well for ya.
 

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Mostly everything was already mentioned here. Just some of my experience below.

Probuilt has overall pretty good reviews on ls1tech, and Dana from probuilt is active on the forums. But generally, by design, 700r4/4l60e is weaker on 3/4 clutches when compared to a 4l80e. There is a reason GM stuck with th400 until 4l80e was put in service. There is also an issue with fluid pressure control for release/engage when shifting 3rd/4th. I had experience with a 4l60e behind a stroker ls motor with a good nitrous shot on slicks and that transmission was out every other season for a new 3/4 clutch pack. Heavy trucks just add more abuse.

This was my parts list for a 300hp to the wheels truck.
torque converter PDQ-C40-HDT
Torrington bearing kit BRGTWKIT700
TC lockup solenoid 99837
10 vane oil pump parts with no yo yo
0.470 main boost valve
29 element input sprag
manual low/reverse sprag LOREVSPRAG700
GM Turbulator low-drag steel & quick clutch release technology SKU3885
Master kit
Borg Warner, Hi-Energy wide 2-4 band
Forward, Manual Low/Reverse, Overrun, and Reverse Input Clutches
Corvette 700R4 2nd Gear Servo
seperator plate
check balls
valve body gasket
Sonnex sun shell
 
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Dana does know his ****, and not only GM transmissions. He also builds and sells parts.

That release/engage 3/4 clutch pack was supposed to be fixed by adding springs in the input drum. This was due to a slow release of the piston and keeping the clutches engaged, creating wear and heat that helped kill the 3/4. That's one of those where builders will agree and disagree. Some throw them away and refuse to use them, and then some will retrofit older models with them. But, it is one of the later model 700r4 updates.
 

Mr. Gutwrench

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Well it's back at A&A now. I am not going to give them any money. If they fix it under warranty I am just hoping it lasts long enough for me to save the money for the TCI 700r4 or the 4L80E. If they say it's not covered under warranty then I am just going to have to tow the truck from Yukon back to Crescent and park it in my shop for a while.


It will be interesting to learn what went wrong with your present trans.

Not arguing against a 4L80E at all but if you stay with the 700r4, you might want to look at to look at Monster Transmissions, GearStar, or Bowtie, also.
 

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It will be interesting to learn what went wrong with your present trans.

Not arguing against a 4L80E at all but if you stay with the 700r4, you might want to look at to look at Monster Transmissions, GearStar, or Bowtie, also.
I don't know of GearStar, Bowtie Automatics haven't had alot bad said about them, but also not near as many have bought them, but did you really suggest Monster Transmissions? Run don't walk from them. I've heard many many upset with them and their reliability as well as the expensive shipping and long turn around for warranty if they'll even honor it since they like to blame you, claiming YOU did something wrong to it. Not just 1,2, or 3, I'm talking many have said the same thing about Monster. I've also heard, Mad Dog is a spin off of Monster and just as bad or maybe even worse.
 

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Yeah, I was about to post similar... more recently I've come across many threads about the Monster brand... many complaints. I just couldn't remember where I read them. I don't know much about the latter 2 mentioned either.. and also haven't come across them much in my homework to comment either way
 

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I would stick with probuilt then maybe gearstart and bowtie/tci, but as been said, far far away from monster transmissions. If staying with 700r4, definitely talk to the couple of different vendors first.
I have seen the bowtie transmission last in friends vehicle. bowtie was behind a built 400 on spray and slicks. Local trans shop calls to probuilt when anything non stock comes in.
 

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