5/5 drop c10 help

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Frankenchevy

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Órale vato - these will significantly improve your acceleration!

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Honky Kong jr

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Rubbing pretty bad. Right now I have 295/50/15 for rear tires, I was thinking getting 275/60/15. Any suggestions?
I ran 315/35/17s on my S10 I put a 1/4” spacer on to alleviate any closeness. I machined the wheel mount surface off of a rotor to make them. I also installed longer wheel studs of better quality.
 
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smoothandlow84

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Looks nice!
 

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I ran 315/35/17s on my S10 I put a 1/4” spacer on to alleviate any closeness. I machined the wheel mount surface off of a rotor to make them. I also installed longer wheel studs of better quality.
Only be place it's rubbing is the rear fender. Looks like I might have to cut the rear fender lip and then roll them
 

Frankenchevy

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different rear brakes and or backing plates may give you an overall narrower track width on the rear too. they make rotors that can be setup to run multiple overall widths so you can play around with the track width as well.
 

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Here's some more pic today. Last pix show the rub line on the sidewall

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Honky Kong jr

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Only be place it's rubbing is the rear fender. Looks like I might have to cut the rear fender lip and then roll them
Don’t cut them just have them rolled
 

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different rear brakes and or backing plates may give you an overall narrower track width on the rear too. they make rotors that can be setup to run multiple overall widths so you can play around with the track width as well.
That's exactly what's I'm looking for, which set up would be great. I do have drums on the rear. 12 bolt non posi
 

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to me, it looks like you definitely have a wider track width in the rear. disc brake swaps are quick and relatively cheap. if you look into it, they make different depth rotor hats to achieve different hub to hub measurements without narrowing the axle and tubes.

this may get you where you need to be and it may not. the other option is narrowing the axle and tubes. the brake option is bolt on though.

edit: the stance would be damn near perfect if you could get 1/2-3/4" narrower per side. or you could roll the fenders and be done. I've had this issue on OSAC stuff. the other option is rim backspacing, but I like those wheels you've got there.
 

Honky Kong jr

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different rear brakes and or backing plates may give you an overall narrower track width on the rear too. they make rotors that can be setup to run multiple overall widths so you can play around with the track width as well.

That's exactly what's I'm looking for, which set up would be great. I do have drums on the rear. 12 bolt non posi
Ok this may sting a little....the axle length is the axle length. No backing plate is gonna change that. A rotor will only add to your issue as the are thicker then the wheel mount surface of a brake drum. When adding disc brakes you install longer wheel studs, because of the added thickness of the rotor. So no adding a disc set up will not get rid of your rub. Adding an inch of height will, smaller tires or rolling the lip or different offset wheels. I suggest raising it an inch it will still look good and you keep the meats under it.
In a previous post about spacers I was under the impression you had a rub on the inside. My bad.
 

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shoot my bad, I thought for sure willwood made a disc setup for that axle that cheated you in a half inch over the stock drums
 

Honky Kong jr

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shoot my bad, I thought for sure willwood made a disc setup for that axle that cheated you in a half inch over the stock drums
Only way I see that happening is if the rotor mounted on the back side of the wheel mounting flange, and that’s only gonna yield an 1/8”
 

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Back in the old days a pair of skyjacker air shocks would be the go to fix for that. Then we graduated to coil over shocks. Lol
 

Frankenchevy

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or you can go full rice and stretch your tire lol
 

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