383 Vortec/TBI Build Thread

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4WDKC

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So anyone have experience with these head gaskets? They're copies of Fel Pro 1003 hi po gaskets, but price is a bit less. Leaning towards just going with fel pro but if these were trustworthy......
https://www.ebay.com/itm/311645244663


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Somethings are just worth the money for good name parts, this is the case I wouldn't risk cheaper stuff.
 

Daveo91Burb

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Installed my crank tonight! Rotates smooth after mains torqued and plastigage checks out, although a little on the tight side (.002, maybe a tad less)
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Daveo91Burb

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Setback!!! Press-fit wrist pins! I looked at some YouTube vids and I think I could build a little jig and then heat up the rods with a MAP gas torch, but.....I think I'm going to check with my machinist to see what he would charge. I think I'd be too nervous about getting the rod orientation wrong and sounds like once they're in, they're in - might damage pistons getting them out. Dang. Pretty sure when I built my Corvette motor my machinist did this for me.
 

Daveo91Burb

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Any comments on this? How hard is it to get the wrist pins thru the rods? Are there any better ways to do it than I describe above?


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CSFJ

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I always heard of putting the rod in a toaster oven to get it good and hot, and keeping the pin in the freezer until you're ready to drop it in. Seems like I tried it many years ago, guessing I didn't like the results, as the last set i did I had done at the machine shop.
 

74 Shortbed

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Not something you do at home unless you have the proper equipment to do it right.
 

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Absolutely let a competent machine shop do it, doing it incorrectly could window your block and you are back at square and now out all the money you already spent. Some things are just worth the money to do right.
 

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Thanks all for the replies. Dropped off the rods and pistons at the machinist's today


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Derick C.

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Good idea
 

Daveo91Burb

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Finally have 8 piston/rod assemblies with rings installed and ready to go in. Been a little bit of a journey getting there tho - somewhere along the way one of the Keith black pistons I bought on eBay sustained some damage to one of the ring lands. Not sure if it was me, machinist, or eBay seller so it was my dime to replace. I first found a used matching single on eBay, bought it, but machinist said pin clearance was too big. But then luckily found another single on eBay, this one new. I could have had machinist buy a single but it turns out his supplier was going to charge an arm and a leg to break up the set.


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Daveo91Burb

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Finally found some time this weekend to put the short block together. Only some minor snags to deal with at this point: I seem to be missing some bolts (oil pump hold down bolt for one) and I found out that this cam retainer came in two different bolt spacings and of course I have the wrong one. Correct one on order.....

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Daveo91Burb

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Still haven't found my missing bolts, probably some box I put somewhere "safe." Thoughts on the oil pump bolt? I know I can get an ARP stud kit but I'd have to order it and make sure I get the right length (there's two different lengths for SBC). I also have a local hardware store that has a really kick ass nut and bolt section - 3 or 4 times the selection of a typical Ace or True Value. I could probably get a 7/16" machine bolt from there (the kind with an allen head)? Would I use a lock washer with that?
 

74 Shortbed

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Lock washer will cause a flaw, no need for one just use proper torque for the grade bolt you use, bolt stretch will hold it tight just like factory.
 

Daveo91Burb

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Thanks for the info. Found a grade 8 machine bolt with flanged, hex head today. I think I'm supposed to have 2 3/8" length this is 2 1/2" so just slightly too long - bottoms out on the bearing just barely not tightening the pump. I should be able to grind an 1/8" off and be good to go?
 

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I would think cutting method that does not heat up the bolt that much would be better.
 

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