14 bolt 9.5?

[Squarehead1984]

I’ve got an 84 c20 that was originally a small block and the differential is the 9.5. Turning the yoke make both tires turn the same direction but there is really a lot of slack somewhere inside. I prefer the full floating dif.

I guess my question is how soon should I worry about the slack. 468 that’s going in makes around 575-600hp (hydraulic roller, Brodix Heads, fast FI ETC).
The trans is a stock 700r4 so that may be the cushion!any ideas on what a complete dif cost here in Texas?

 

[bucket]

Good greif, that stock 700r4 is going to die very quickly. As in, post haste.

If a locker has been installed, that can account for some slack and it could be considered normal. I'd pull the cover and inspect.

 

[Squarehead1984]

If it already has a locker that might sway the decision to keep it unless I can find a 10.5 with a posi. I don’t care about the ratio so what ever it has is fine.

As far as the trans goes my best buddy owns Freak Show performance trans and converters so I get a smoking deal on trans stuff. I’ve also got a good th400 but overdrive would be nice.

 

[HotRodPC]

So are you sure it's a locker and not a limited slip? If it's a locker, I've seen a little over 1/4 turn of slop be normal.

If you're running a 700r4, I'd be very concerned at what the rear gear ratio is. The lower the better if you want it to have a chance in hell of having it hold up. And watch the RPMs on all that hp. Anything over 5000 rpm with some hp you bette have that input drum sleeved as well as a few other mods and even then, that's putting lipstick on a pig.

 

[rpcraft]

sounds like you are about to kill a rear axle and a trans. Get a 4l80E with a controller and then take your 14 bolt semifloater and rebuilt it. That axle is a great unit and plenty strong for putting down power but it wears in the same manner as a 12 bolt or 10 bolt will so you probably just need to refresh the pinion bearing and seal. I doubt the diff bearings are bad unless it ran with no gear oil or seriously water contaminated gear oil for too long.

 

[Squarehead1984]

When I bought the truck there was a receipt under the seat from a repair place in Wichita Falls stating the rear differential was replaced. $900 or so. Best I can tell it was a wrecking yard unit. Dirty and oily.

The 468 that was for it may not come my way after all. It’s in my dads elco and originally he was not happy with the fuel mileage but now he has decided to possibly keep it. DAMN IT!!! but we will see. I may have to build a 383 or something for it since I have all the brackets and accessories for it.

 

[HotRodPC]

When I bought the truck there was a receipt under the seat from a repair place in Wichita Falls stating the rear differential was replaced. $900 or so. Best I can tell it was a wrecking yard unit. Dirty and oily.

The 468 that was for it may not come my way after all. It’s in my dads elco and originally he was not happy with the fuel mileage but now he has decided to possibly keep it. DAMN IT!!! but we will see. I may have to build a 383 or something for it since I have all the brackets and accessories for it.

Dads are dicks sometimes. You'll be happy with a 383 too. They tend to pull like a big block due to the longer stroke adding all that torque.

 

[bucket]

Dads are dicks sometimes. You'll be happy with a 383 too. They tend to pull like a big block due to the longer stroke adding all that torque.

I see this logic all the time. But a 305 has a long stroke for it's displacement, and nobody likes those

 

[Squarehead1984]

The guy I bought the truck from said it was a 305 but I have not ran the numbers yet. Doesn’t matter. I swear this thing made noises I’ve never heard from an engine that still ran. Which means short block is junk plus I refuse to run factory heads. Bolt on after markets are too easy to bolt on and make better power.

 

[HotRodPC]

I can agree to new aftermarket heads. With the cost of machine work today, if you have a very well worn set of heads, by the time you replace a couple valves, most of the valve guides and may as well just do them all if you're doing most of them and the cost of labor and machine work, you can just about buy New aftermarket ready to bolt on for just a bit more. If you considered paying to port and polish them, then you are better for certain and will saving money.

 

[rpcraft]

You never know, it might just be sloppy valve train. Nothing wrong with upgrading the top end on the 305 but it will never be a 350, all in all.

 

[Squarehead1984]

You never know, it might just be sloppy valve train. Nothing wrong with upgrading the top end on the 305 but it will never be a 350, all in all.

Oh no this thing was knocking, chirping, squeaking, ticking, it was awesome. I took a video of it but I can’t post it.

If the 468 doesn’t work out I’ll do a 383 unless I can find a 400. All I’ve done in the last 20 years was race engines so a street engine will be new. I’m thinking afr heads, comp hyd roller cam and an Edelbrock performer rpm will fit the bill. Headers, 3” exhaust with an x pipe and we be in business.

 

[rpcraft]

I honestly wouldn't spend much time looking for a 400, compared to what you can build off the 350. The 383 may cost more but I think it will be a lot stronger and you won't have any cooling concenrs, which has always been the Achilles heal on the 400.

 

[HotRodPC]

I honestly wouldn't spend much time looking for a 400, compared to what you can build off the 350. The 383 may cost more but I think it will be a lot stronger and you won't have any cooling concenrs, which has always been the Achilles heal on the 400.

I agree, or deal with steam holes and all that BS. There's at least one on here that will disagree, but I'm with rpc on this. 350's are still plentiful too. In the event you ever do crack or damage that 400, then good luck finding another for a cheap repair and transferring your rotating assembly to another block.

 

[bucket]

I agree, or deal with steam holes and all that BS. There's at least one on here that will disagree, but I'm with rpc on this. 350's are still plentiful too. In the event you ever do crack or damage that 400, then good luck finding another for a cheap repair and transferring your rotating assembly to another block.

Ooh ooh, me me me! Lol. I had a 400 once, I liked it. I drilled steam holes into early LT1 heads and all that. Drilling them with a hand drill wasn't all that bad, but finding a bit that could actually drill the holes was a bitch.