1-ton swap

[Shack]

Just curious for those of you who have done the 1-ton axle swaps, did you end up having to relocate the spring perches on the axles? Just curious because my 14-bolt FF has narrower perches than the factory setup so it's not a tough one to figure out, just curious about both the front and rear perches. Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

[kleedus]

the front is a bolt in deal as long as you got the u bolt plates with the dana 60.

the rear is not a bolt in like you have found out the 1 tons have the springs set in closer to the frame for clearance to run dual wheels.

I always use a 3/4 ton 14 bolt they are a direct bolt in.

1 tons have three different axle widths
a normal dually pick up with a bed will have a dana 60 and is the widest one

cab and chassis has a narrow 14 bolt to narrow for single wheels

then the single wheel 14 bolt witch is the same width as a 3/4 ton.

the 1 tons had bigger rear brakes and the narrow spring perches but the internals are all the same in the 14 bolt full floaters

 

[Shack]

When I bought it, the guy never specified what it came out from under nor did I think to ask. I did think the drums were awfully large. Could I not simply cut these springs perches off and weld new ones on where I need them? My plan is disc
brake conversion on the 14-bolt, if that's an option with this thing.

 

[bucket]

Yes, you can cut off the perches and weld on new ones. If you have the cast style perches, they can be a bear to remove but the stamped style can actually be reused if you are careful removing them.

Another option is locating a set of K30 hangers and shock mounts and just bolting everything together. Fairly easy to do it that way if you can find the parts and if you are good with a cutting torch.

 

[Shack]

This is what mine looks like. Seem like careful cutting across that fillet weld may be the way to go? Anything I should do to verify I weld them back in the same orientation in regards to axle angle?

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[bucket]

I just use an angle finder gauge to see how they are positioned in relation to the pinion flange/yoke, then make sure that stays the same when the new perches are positioned. If you are going for a lot of lift or a shackle flip or some other mod that will really through off the pinion angle, you will just tack them in place and do final welding with everything mocked up to get a good driveshaft angle.

 

[Shack]

I just use an angle finder gauge to see how they are positioned in relation to the pinion flange/yoke, then make sure that stays the same when the new perches are positioned. If you are going for a lot of lift or a shackle flip or some other mod that will really through off the pinion angle, you will just tack them in place and do final welding with everything mocked up to get a good driveshaft angle.

I figured that as well but was doing some reading and found with the 14-bolt, the best bet was close to level as possible. Is this true? The lift I'm looking at is a 12" from ORD so it's 8" springs and then shackles.

 

[bucket]

I guess it depends on what you mean by "level"?

 

[Shack]

I realize that's a relative term but I "read" that the yoke so should as close to level in regards to position to the ground. Don't know that is true or not. I've never fooled with drive angles before.

 

[Shack]

I guess my next question is will this even be worth my time or should I just find another donor axle? I don't want the end product to be like it is now, with the rear axle narrower than the front being extremely noticeable.

 

[bucket]

I'm not very knowledgeable about proper driveshaft angles, but level to the road sounds wrong unless that's what makes the shaft and joints happy. With a stock style shaft, I think you want the pinion to be parallel to the t-case output... ideally. But that can put too much angle on the u-joint when the truck is lifted, so the pinion gets pointed upward to keep the u-joint alive. With a CV style shaft, I think you want the pinion basically inline with the driveshaft itself.

You already have the axle, you may as well use it if you have the capability of moving the perches. The end result is the same, a 3/4 ton housing just doesn't need modded to bolt it in. The overall width is the same.

 

[Shack]

I'm not very knowledgeable about proper driveshaft angles, but level to the road sounds wrong unless that's what makes the shaft and joints happy. With a stock style shaft, I think you want the pinion to be parallel to the t-case output... ideally. But that can put too much angle on the u-joint when the truck is lifted, so the pinion gets pointed upward to keep the u-joint alive. With a CV style shaft, I think you want the pinion basically inline with the driveshaft itself.

You already have the axle, you may as well use it if you have the capability of moving the perches. The end result is the same, a 3/4 ton housing just doesn't need modded to bolt it in. The overall width is the same.

I did some recon tonight using the BillaVista website and the 14-bolt bible. Turns out, my wheel mounting surface measures less than 1/2" from what the bible says a SRW 14-bolt would be, it just doesn't classify it as 3/4 ton. The only one listed as being wider is a van. I think I'm going to just roll with it as you said since I have it. I am planning on lifting it 12" using ORD's kit in the future so I may end up having to pull those perches AGAIN and relocate them but for the time being, I'll give this one a shot.

I appreciate the help!

S/N: I got my engine and going tuesday for the transmission. Hoping to get the cab off and get the frame blasted and then mod the back of the frame for a larger fuel tank. The cab back on, Painless wire harness install and engine/trans install.

 

[bucket]

Yeah, the van housings are a little wider, but then you are still faced with moving the perches around. But with a 12 inch lift, an inch or two of track width isn't going to be noticeable anyway.

 

[Shack]

Yeah, the van housings are a little wider, but then you are still faced with moving the perches around. But with a 12 inch lift, an inch or two of track width isn't going to be noticeable anyway.

I'm hoping the wheel tire combo will help cover that up as well.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Welding cast perches can be tricky, you have to use high nickel rod and cool the weld slowly or it will just crack at the weld. If it was me I would source another axle from a 3/4 ton, or buy some stamped perches to weld on. As far as driveline angle your tcase output and pinion angles should match or be close. If it looks like your tcase output points down a little your pinion should point up the same degree. This is why the front uses a double cardan joint. The tcase output up front just about always points up a little so 2 joints on the tcase side helps eliminate vibration.