Left turn signal problem

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Layne02

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Got a problem somewhere in left turn signal. Right side is fine .Heres what it does, when i turn signal on, the blinker lights come on and stay on, front and back . So seems to me switch in column is working cause its causing them to at least come on.

I have swapped all bulbs around, it is something in left side.

Would a bad bulb connector possibly cause it? If so, would it cause front and back to not work?

Just didnt want to tear into column unless just had to, thanks.
 

Layne02

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Just wanted to add, when I say they come on and stay on, they just don't blink, they will go back off when lever triggers back to off
 

78C10BigTen

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What year is your truck? Have you tried replacing flasher cans? Does the passenger side work correctly?
 

Layne02

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Its an 87, right side works fine
 

chengny

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Got a problem somewhere in left turn signal. Right side is fine .Heres what it does, when i turn signal on, the blinker lights come on and stay on, front and back . So seems to me switch in column is working cause its causing them to at least come on.

I have swapped all bulbs around, it is something in left side.

Would a bad bulb connector possibly cause it? If so, would it cause front and back to not work?

Just didnt want to tear into column unless just had to, thanks.


First step:
Turn on your hazard flashers and observe operation on the LH side. The hazard lights and the directionals share a common filament. So, if the lighting on the LH side flashes while operating the hazards, it should also work when the LH turn signals are used.

Your not running LEDS anywhere are you?
Quad headlights or base?
Does operation of the parking lamps cause any difference behavior?

And the big questions: Did you recently do any modifications/repairs on the truck? If so, did the LH side T/S work prior to that? Did this all pop up overnight, over time or did you maybe buy the truck with this problem already existing?

The marker lights play an important role in the operation of the directional light circuit. Check those marker bulbs for proper size and type.


And oh yeah, take a good look at the ground connections - be sure they are clean & tight.
 
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Layne02

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Turned hazard lights and all work , so dont know what it is.

I checked grounds, they are good and tight, but I was curious how many grounds there should be. I have one on each side of radiator bolted to rad core support. Is there a separate ground wire for turn signals?

I did do a lot of work to truck since I have had it, but cant honestly say if this problem was there when I got truck.

I will keep searching...........
 

chengny

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Turned hazard lights and all work , so dont know what it is.

I checked grounds, they are good and tight, but I was curious how many grounds there should be. I have one on each side of radiator bolted to rad core support. Is there a separate ground wire for turn signals?

I did do a lot of work to truck since I have had it, but cant honestly say if this problem was there when I got truck.

I will keep searching...........


Check the grounding for the rear lighting. GM wiring diagrams always show a well designed ground circuit. Typically it is shown as a single common frame ground (bolted to the middle of the rear crossmember) which then splits into two independent branches. They then branch off and lead to the lighting assembly on either side. It looks real professional - on paper. In real life however, I've never seen it done that way.

What you actually get for the rear lighting ground circuit goes basically like this:

All the ground leads from one side are spliced together (which side varies with model year and body style). That spliced connection is then lead over to the other side where it ties into another splice - which consists of all the ground legs from lamps on that side. But there is an extra lead twisted into that bowl of spaghetti. That lead is meant to provide the ground path for the entire combined LH/RH lighting group. In my limited experience it is always just a 6-8 inch piece of wire with a flimsy ring terminal on the end. That ring terminal is secured to the back of the "destination" assembly with a sheet metal screw. Below are some photos of a rear lighting harness I surgically removed from a 1987 K10 Sierra Classic a couple of years ago. It was OEM and in great condition - way better than mine - so I grabbed it.

Notice that there is no local grounding point provided for one of the sides (I forget which side) and also that the only ground for those six lamps is via the short lead/ring terminal on the opposite side - there is no common ground to the frame.

First is how GM typically represents the circuit - in it's wiring diagrams and service manuals (blue tracer is for clarity):

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But in reality, this is what it actually consists of:

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There is a reason I bring this up. Thermal relays are cycled on/off by current flowing through a bimetallic strip. How they work isn't within the scope of this discussion. But suffice it to say that; the greater the degree of current flow through the flasher, the faster it will cycle on/off.

Your e-flashers will cycle the LH lamps on/off, but the turn signal flasher will not cycle that side - even though it is supplying current to the same filaments (and through the same leads) as the hazard flasher. This is a stretch, but the key difference between the two flashers is that when the hazard flasher is operating, it is supplying power to the lamps on both sides of truck. On the other hand, when the you activate the directionals, power flows to only the one side you selected. So, it follows that the hazard flasher is always supplying power to twice as many lamps as the T/S flasher.

My point is that if there is an insufficient grounding condition anywhere in the LH hazard/directional circuit, it may be reducing the current flow through the bimetallic strip - to the point where the strip doesn't get hot enough to open/close. The lights come on, but won't cycle off. The same reduced current flow on the LH side will of course affect the hazard flasher. But since it is also supplying the lamps on the RH side - there may still be sufficient flow to allow it to cycle.

You seem to have done a thorough job checking the grounding for the front part of the lighting circuit. And, because the rear grounding setup is so fragile in comparison, I thought I should suggest you check it. That is the reason for tonight's long, boring post. Also my wife and daughter are on vacation in Spain and I have nothing to do.

Good luck. This is a real head scratcher.
 
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Layne02

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You could be on to something, I didnt check the rear for grounds, why, I dont know. I will check them this afternoon. Thanks
 

Layne02

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Well sometime its the simplest thing.

I checked rear ground, it was good. Then I decide to look at front light socket , the inside of it had a lot of gunk in it but it looked like contact areas were clean. I took a small screwdriver and cleaned it out real good and put bulb back and BAM ! , blinker starts working. So I suppose the gunk was keeping it from connecting properly. Whatever , working now, thanks for responses
 

Layne02

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Now if I can just get dash lights working again from another post , I will have electrical stuff done
 

78C10BigTen

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Now if I can just get dash lights working again from another post , I will have electrical stuff done
Check the headlight switch. Thats what made mine work
 

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