383 Stroker build

FIRST OFF I WANNA SAY SRRY FOR THE LONG POST, BUT IF U WANNA SKIP TO THE QUESTIONS TO THE BOTTOM I WOULD APPRECIATE IT

ILL SEND OLDISH PICS OF MY MOTOR WITH ALL NEW PARTS IF ANYONES INTERESTED IN SEEIN IT, I GOT 4K INVESTED IN THIS TRUCK W MY EARNED MONEY


Just looking for some tips n tricks in building these 383 strokers. I am only 16 rn so idk if i could be wrong on some of this stuff so ill explain where I'm at. My 4 bolt main block is at the machine shop getting bored over .030 and getting decked to (zero deck) with the pistons. I have a Eagle rotating assembly with full floating rods, cast crank, and hypernautic pistons. Ive heard bad things about them but its not going to be a race engine, i just wanted a bit more get up n go with my truck, and I should mention this is going in my 1976 chevy k10 custom deluxe 8" lift sm465, np205. I have all the tools I BELIEVE i need please DO mention missing tools if i dont mention them but i got a feeler gauge, plasti gauge, motor stand, oil pump primer, all the common sockets n wrenches needed, piston ring compressor, cam bearing tool, spark plug thread chaser, crank socket, and harmonic balancer installer-remover tools. So thats all the basic tools and for this build I think it will be straight forward, but im just trying to reassure everything so that I dont mess anything up. THIS IS MY FIRST ENGINE BUILD EVER

I will tell u all my setup from bottom-up so that you can give me the best info possible
4 Bolt main block
High volume oil pump
Cast eagle crank
full floating I beam rods,
hyperneutic pistons with +5 cc valve reliefs
Summit 1106 cam with 303/303 duration 488/488 lift
862 heads (11:1 compression calcuated)
Solid (stock) lifters and pushrods
New but stock ratio rocker arms
edelbrock eps dual plane
2" carb spacer
edelbrock 1405 manual choke



NOW HERES FOR THE QUESTIONS I HAVE

I have a summit 1106 cam, it is a hydraulic solid lifter cam, but I am doing a stock rocker arm and pushrod build, I have new rocker arms installed but they are stock reproduction, i replaced them when I had put the cam's matching valve springs and replaced seals. Can i run the setup with the stock lifters and pushrods and rockers?


Crank endplay???
i heard a bit about crank end play, but in most vids engine builders dont do that step?? So u just take a rubber mallet on it and measure with the feeler gauge between the crank and the main caps?

Timing?
I know how to do timing, i have replaced my distributor and retimed it but without a timing light(timed by ear) sadly, but i will get one when i fire it up.

SO I AM WONDERING WHEN I FIRE UP THE ENGINE I HAVE TO IMMEDIATELY REVV THE ENGINE UP TO 2500 OR SO RPMS TO BREAK IN MY FLAT TAPPET CAM, SO WHILE IM DOING THIS IF IT RUNS GOOD SHOULD I NOT MESS WITH THE TIMING TILL ITS BROKEN IN AND AT IDLE???? AND DO O I USE GRAPHITE LUBE, HIGH PRESSURE LUBE ON THE CAM, AND USE SHELL ROTELLA OIL??

This truck is my restoration project. This was my uncle gerard's old plow truck and he had died 3 months into me having the truck, now its my 2nd year having the truck and its alot farther now. and the original miles are 33,308

Nice never heard of the rotella break in I like non detergent or break in oil you may want a zinc addative to run with break in oil

Hydraulic and solid are two different things. Hydraulic uses a small cushion of oil to control valve lash. Solid requires you setting the valve lash. Looked up your cam and it's a hydraulic. What gearing do you have? Since you're running an 8 inch lift I assume you've got pretty big tires. I think you'll need pretty deep gears to make that cam usable if you're running big tires.

Summit says factory style rockers will work (preferably long slot). Stock length pushrods are probably ok, stamped rockers are abit more accepting than rollers when it comes to pushrods length. I actually watched a video of an old hot rodder using different length pushrods to change the geometry and get more lift without changing rockers. Now by factory lifters do you mean originals or ones that came with your kit? You shouldn't reuse lifters on a different cam, or even lobe for that matter. If you just meant factory style then yes, they will be fine.

For crank endplay I've always seen it measured by holding tension on the crank with a pry bar and measuring with feeler gauges.

If it runs ok stick to the break-in. Dial in you're timing later. Be sure you have high octane fuel and don't advance to far with 11:1. Now I'm not sure if rotella has high zddp anymore. Last time I tried to research it I got the impression it got lowered too.

Cam break-in
Rebuild in multiple parts, I trust you can find the following videos.
I trust this guy, I watched his videos before I did my 454.

With the 383, you will need to check for clearance of your rods on the block at the oil pan rails and bottom of the cylinder walls. Also a small base circle cam may be needed. Talk to your machinist about these issues. Check out some vids on stroker engine builds.

I have watched a lot of that guys video's as well. He has a lot of great videos with great info.

Thanks for all the advice guys and yeah im going to have to swap my gearing its 3.31 but i only have 31s for tires sadly

AustinDube said:

Thanks for all the advice guys and yeah im going to have to swap my gearing its 3.31 but i only have 31s for tires sadly

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Also are your heads 862? I tried to look them up but only found ls stuff. And how will you be using the truck? 11:1 is pretty high, especially if you're running iron heads. Most guys here building for the street stick to 9:1 or 9.5:1.

I am not familiar with your cam, but your build has to be to the cam as far as compression is concerned. If you use lower compression than the cam calls for, you will not be happy, if the compression is higher than the cam recommends, you will ping(or your computer will retard the timing so bad, that it will seem like a 6 cyl). Make sure to do your homework, an engine build requires all parts work together properly, the balancing and other finishing touches are nice, but if you are not planning to run above 7000, name brands will work fine

There is going to need to be some clearance issues on the pan rail of engine addressed, also you are probably going to have to clearance the inside-side of the rod for clearance to the camshaft, or like stated above use a small base circle camshaft but that doesn't always guarantee a "miss" from rotating assembly. If you DO have to grind on any of the rods, they will need to be rebalanced.. If the shop doing the machine work is reputable, they should address some of these or at the very least bring it to your attention. Especially if you're going to do the assembly yourself, because once the grinding for clearance is all said and done the block will need to be re-cleaned again at the very least. And ask the shop doing the machining for all the proper torque specs, especially if you're using any aftermarket fasteners. Are you going to have the parts "assembly ready" from machine shop? As far as assembly goes, take your time and use assembly lube liberally! On all moving surfaces and bearings. Sounds to me like you're on the right path, and remember there are NO stupid questions! It's always better to ask, than roast a fresh rebuild!

Better safe than sorry so, few questions/observations

1. first 4 pages on a google search return LS heads for 862, are you sure those numbers are right?
2. 11:1 is high on compression for iron heads, questionable on a carb engine in a heavy truck.
3. That cams is recommended with a 2800+ rpm stall.
4. Stock lifters are not solid they are hydraulic flat tappet, so which are you using? Buy springs to match the cam also. Cam says hydraulic flat tappet btw.
5. If you do run this setup as mentions you probably will have detonation (pinging) issues, these can destroy hypereutetic piston. After having one break part of the skirt off and take out an oil pump I will only install forged in my engines, more expensive and louder but, better piece of mind for me.
6. high volume oil pump with stock oil pan is asking for trouble either buy larger aftermarket pan or standard pump.

my engine builder recommends rotella 10-40 but you will still need break in lube for the new cam.i always add 4oz of cam lube to the oil change for the zinc instead of running something like gibbs or penn oil. be prepared for a life of premium fuel at 11:1. i would consider having an engine builder assemble the short block, there are so many places to make a mistake with this build. stock 350 or 400 no big deal. mine is a 406sbc

peats said:

my engine builder recommends rotella 10-40 but you will still need break in lube for the new cam.i always add 4oz of cam lube to the oil change for the zinc instead of running something like gibbs or penn oil. be prepared for a life of premium fuel at 11:1. i would consider having an engine builder assemble the short block, there are so many places to make a mistake with this build. stock 350 or 400 no big deal. mine is a 406sbc

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Who’s your engine builder in PA?

Roller cam!!!

danny williver right here in emmaus. talented and reasonable. did the 406 in my 72 k5 and the 360 in the 81 c 10.