700r4 Issues

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HotRodPC

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Yeah, I was about to post similar... more recently I've come across many threads about the Monster brand... many complaints. I just couldn't remember where I read them. I don't know much about the latter 2 mentioned either.. and also haven't come across them much in my homework to comment either way
Sadly, most of the places I've had these conversations about bad Monster transmissions, the majority agreed, you just need to do homework for a local builder that has a good reputation and have them do it and don't do mail order transmissions. Get someone that if it has a problem you can take it by there and let them see it, drive it, feel it and fix it. And you get alot more results when you're IN THEIR FACE, not over the phone or behind a computer monitor. Not to mention saving the shipping fees to ship it back for warranty work and the waiting game to get a replacement. I think I'd have to agree with the majority. Find a good local builder.
 

Splandman

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I looked at the Gearstar. According to their site, I would need their Level 3 to handle the torque, it's $3300. At that point I would definitely wait and get the 4L80E. Of course I have already spent that at this point, so I would have been money ahead if I had gone that route to begin with. It appears I should have stayed in auto mechanics and been a transmission builder.

The Bowtie Overdrives site looks like it could be a good choice. They aren't crazy on their prices. I forgot I had been on their site before to figure out what size gears needed to be changed to fix my speedo after the rear end gear change.
 

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Yeah, ditto on my area's local builders... which is why I'm stuck on doing it myself. So far, so good... Can't wait for the overhaul.
 

HotRodPC

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I was all about this to begin with...but two years later I am pretty discouraged.


You have another cheap out option. How often is this thing on the freeway? I'd imagine often if you live in Crescent. :shrug: A 9in tailshaft Th350 will bolt right in and SHOULD be able to use the same driveshaft too. If you want to patch the truck up for cheap with a Th350 now, that will be reliable, save the funds with intent of a 4L80-E later on when finances are better or Ed McMann comes knocking on the door. I'm still waiting on Ed McMann to show up on my door.
 

HotRodPC

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**** No, wait a minute, you're a 4x4. You'd need the spacer and a 6in tailshaft Th350 to make it work and use your same driveshafts and crossmember. I think that spacer kit alone is about $150 to $200, so that takes the cheap out of that.
 

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I'd imagine often if you live in Crescent.


I do spend a lot of time at 65 mph or over. I am just going to have to decide if I want to try another 700r4 or park it and wait until I have the cash to go big. That might be a while. I have spent quite a bit on it over the last couple of years.

Mechanically everything on the truck is new except the transfer case. I would love to move on to things like new AC hoses...AC would be really nice right now, or gauges, and some day paint and body but I stay stuck on this. When I bought everything for this motor I added a brand new complete GM serpentine system with AC compressor and all. It's never even been charged yet because I don't have the hoses.

Bowtie Overdrives answered me pretty quickly. I sent them all the specs on my truck and They are quoting me $2552.

$1800 for stage 3 trans rated to 630HP and 680 ft. lbs. Way more than I have...if it can actually do that.
$199 for their 2200 stall converter
$45 for TCC wiring relay kit
$225 for custom TV setup for the Sniper
$125 core charge
$158 shipping

He also said he would like me to add an external cooler and run a trans temp gauge. Been planning on a cooler anyway.
 

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700r4 with any kind of power needs an external cooler
https://www.amazon.com/Tru-Cool-LPD4739-4739-Pressure-Transmission/dp/B00803CTDA

I do spend a lot of time at 65 mph or over. I am just going to have to decide if I want to try another 700r4 or park it and wait until I have the cash to go big. That might be a while. I have spent quite a bit on it over the last couple of years.

Mechanically everything on the truck is new except the transfer case. I would love to move on to things like new AC hoses...AC would be really nice right now, or gauges, and some day paint and body but I stay stuck on this. When I bought everything for this motor I added a brand new complete GM serpentine system with AC compressor and all. It's never even been charged yet because I don't have the hoses.

Bowtie Overdrives answered me pretty quickly. I sent them all the specs on my truck and They are quoting me $2552.

$1800 for stage 3 trans rated to 630HP and 680 ft. lbs. Way more than I have...if it can actually do that.
$199 for their 2200 stall converter
$45 for TCC wiring relay kit
$225 for custom TV setup for the Sniper
$125 core charge
$158 shipping

He also said he would like me to add an external cooler and run a trans temp gauge. Been planning on a cooler anyway.
 
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HotRodPC

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I do spend a lot of time at 65 mph or over. I am just going to have to decide if I want to try another 700r4 or park it and wait until I have the cash to go big. That might be a while. I have spent quite a bit on it over the last couple of years.

Mechanically everything on the truck is new except the transfer case. I would love to move on to things like new AC hoses...AC would be really nice right now, or gauges, and some day paint and body but I stay stuck on this. When I bought everything for this motor I added a brand new complete GM serpentine system with AC compressor and all. It's never even been charged yet because I don't have the hoses.

Bowtie Overdrives answered me pretty quickly. I sent them all the specs on my truck and They are quoting me $2552.

$1800 for stage 3 trans rated to 630HP and 680 ft. lbs. Way more than I have...if it can actually do that.
$199 for their 2200 stall converter
$45 for TCC wiring relay kit
$225 for custom TV setup for the Sniper
$125 core charge
$158 shipping

He also said he would like me to add an external cooler and run a trans temp gauge. Been planning on a cooler anyway.


The cooler should have been done long ago and them trans builders should have told you that. In fact if it were me, I'd make that part of any warranty. No cooler, No Warranty !!! But I'd agree a trans temp gauge is a great idea since 700r4's are notorious for killing the 3/4 clutch pack which is 90% of the time due to overheat.

But, before we decide you need a whole transmission job, have you even got it back home yet and found out where the fluid is coming from? It would be great if it's a seal issue or cooling line, then patch it up and save your funds for the 4L80-E in the future. Let's not put the cart before the horse. Again, I'm curious what year model transmission this is. Do you know? It could have puked the front seal out of it. That's repairable and doesn't mean the transmission needs rebuilt.
 

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Thanks for the link.

But, before we decide you need a whole transmission job, have you even got it back home yet and found out where the fluid is coming from?

I have the emergency roadside service with Geico. They sent a tow truck and I had it towed back to A&A in Yukon. If they fix it under warranty then I will limp it around until I can get the money for trans I trust more. If they don't fix it under warranty then I will go down there and pick it up, then park it in my shop for a while until I can buy a new trans.

It wasn't a cooling line for sure, I crawled underneath it and they looked good. I fired it up to back it up so the tow truck driver could get to the front easily. It moved on its own but a pretty good amount of fluid came out just in the ten feet I backed it up. I won't know what went wrong until the end of next week probably. Brian, the owner of A&A, had to leave for his moms funeral the day after this happened.
 

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Pump seal blew out..
 

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Pump seal blew out..

Pretty sure that's what happened the very first time it went bad after rebuild.

Can problems with the converter have anything to do with that? And what happens if someone doesn't connect the electrical plug that goes to operate the lockup converter?
 

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Fluid pressure blew the seal it wasn't installed right, If it's not connected the converter can't lockup that's all..
 

Splandman

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Fluid pressure blew the seal it wasn't installed right, If it's not connected the converter can't lockup that's all..

Well that plug wasn't connected for sure. I don't know if it was wired differently or what. I had to replace my o2 sensor for the Sniper and when I was underneath there I noticed the plug hanging down. Took a pic of it and asked some guys on facebook what it was for, they all said it was for the lockup converter.
 

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It is for the lockup, but you don't absolutely need it, only time you need it is if you're in overdrive and you're RPM's are lower than the converter stall speed, running under the stall speed will heat up the oil big time, mine wasn't hooked up in my truck but I was always 300-400rpm over the stall so it never heated up, never had an aux cooler on it either.
 

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