Anybody replaced Pitman shaft seal before?

Gonna replace PSP tomorrow (maybe). Last time I was underneath the front-end, noticed output shaft of steering box was wet and drips fluid every once in a while. The parts are cheap, but wondering what's involved in replacing the seal.

Thanks!

I won't swear to it, but I think that requires the whole box to be torn down because you have to pull the shaft out to get to that seal. A new or reman box might be the better option.

Or some kind of stop leak put in the ps pump and hope it can swell that seal to working again.

HotRodPC said:

I won't swear to it, but I think that requires the whole box to be torn down because you have to pull the shaft out to get to that seal. A new or reman box might be the better option.

Or some kind of stop leak put in the ps pump and hope it can swell that seal to working again.

Click to expand...

Hmmm, ok. Well, replacing the steering box is out of the question for now. I never did get to the pump, though. I'll try the stop leak after getting the new pump on. The leak isn't bad. It only drips a drop on the driveway once in a while.

Thx.

HotRodPC said:

I won't swear to it, but I think that requires the whole box to be torn down because you have to pull the shaft out to get to that seal. A new or reman box might be the better option.

Or some kind of stop leak put in the ps pump and hope it can swell that seal to working again.

Click to expand...

I seem to remember otherwise. I thought it was held in my a snap ring behint the arm and could be pushed out with pressure by turning the wheels with the engine running. Never had to do one personally tho. Perhaps more research is in order.

Georgeb said:

I seem to remember otherwise. I thought it was held in my a snap ring behint the arm and could be pushed out with pressure by turning the wheels with the engine running. Never had to do one personally tho. Perhaps more research is in order.

Click to expand...

And you might be right. That snap ring is probably what holds that shaft in and why I was thinking so. So long as you don't take the top off the steering box so it can spit that shaft out, it might very well work just as you said.

87ChevyR10 said:

Hmmm, ok. Well, replacing the steering box is out of the question for now. I never did get to the pump, though. I'll try the stop leak after getting the new pump on. The leak isn't bad. It only drips a drop on the driveway once in a while.

Thx.

Click to expand...

Ok, so see if this makes sense to you. If that leak isn't that bad, I'd say there might be a good chance of stop leak fixing it. If you want to try it, then I'd try it NOW, BEFORE the new pump gets put on. I just don't like putting additives into much of anything, especially a new pump. So try the stop leak NOW, see if it works, and if so great, then replace the pump and you don't have that **** in your new pump. If it don't work, then you lost nothing. Know whutta mean?

HotRodPC said:

And you might be right. That snap ring is probably what holds that shaft in and why I was thinking so. So long as you don't take the top off the steering box so it can spit that shaft out, it might very well work just as you said.

Click to expand...

My concern has always been the rust ridge that builds up in the bore. It seems to be difficult to remove so the seal can push out and be reinstalled. There are a ton of vids about this out there tho.

That's what always scares me about dealing with steering boxes, especially power steer boxes. I've heard 3 different horror stories where guys tried to work on them, just going to do this, or just going to do that, and the boxes never got put back together. One of those was my Step Bro's 68 Firebird. It was a hefty price to buy a new box for that car.

I did a little research on the subject matter. I also read about the rust line and how it affects the new seals.

I'm going to try the stop leak first. Do I want to remove the fluid in the rez first?

Any recommendations on which stop leak brand to use? I see Bars has good reviews.

Knock on wood, I've never had to use it so I wouldn't know which one is better.

Not really a fan of using stop leak. What most stop leak does is soften the rubber in the seal so that seal expands. If you have a light leak, usually because the rubber lip of the seal is worn down, became hardened or you got a groove on the shaft. When the seal gets softened to expand, also seems to wear even quicker so it's a basic patch to give you time to do what you should have done in the first place...replace the seal. Another side of the leaky seal problem is that sometimes the seal really isn't bad, but the bearing for the shaft is getting play in it, this play ends up causing the leak. So you go through the trouble of replacing the seal and have that wonderful leak show right back up.
Just did my axle this weekend and while under the truck, I noticed the same thing with my box, except it's more than basic drip. Just ordered a rebuilt box on ebay for $165.10, this link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300572145056?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
Doing this because I distinctly remember the regret I had when I tried to do seals on my old 'Burb box. Turned out to be a massive fiasco!

Well, shoot. Ok, I'll skip the stop leak then. Guess I'll plan to replace PS pump another time then. Steering box replacement won't happen for a while yet.

Thanks y'all!

If it's just a drip, there is not much to worry about...every GM I've owned came factory with a drip, lol. Trying to fix a drip can lead to insanity, for every one you fix, another 2 appear somewhere else. Pretty soon, you find that you've replaced your complete drive train and browsing craigslist for the next great deal because you just gotta have another.
Seriously though, if you want the leak gone, stop leak will temp cure it as long as you realize you will being doing work in the future.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0801-saginaw-steering-box-rebuild/

I replaced mine, along with the input shaft seal, all internal o rings and the end cap o ring, it was not that hard and well worth the time. That seal is a double seal and if you don't drop the gear box out of the truck you'll be hard pressed to get it out and then get the one below it out as well. Also hard to get it back in unless the gear box is in your hand. Mine was full of goop and leaking at input and output shaft seals. Now no more leaks and works good as new, or close to it. I followed along with this video and got a rebuild kit from Rockauto.