thank you, makes me feel less worried. I will defiantly be trying to kill as much rust as i can and protect it from getting worse. i have encountered the wheel well seams. i ground those down, treated and fiber glassed, primed and painted
Thank you ALL for your input. Good call Doppelganger I will heed that advice. I have ZERO experience in this, but hey that's where you guys come in. This was supposed to be NO WORK needed sub ( haha) again my inexperience has cost me. I'm a quick study though. I bought from inline tubing the...
The other day i had to MASH down my brakes to stop ( sudden traffic stopping) and when i did this i blew a hole in the brake line. As i look i can see its rusted and needs replacing. Its a 88 Suburban 4x4. Im having trouble finding pre bent lines at a reasonable price. should i go with pre...
Do you guys think one of these bolts is a better choice than the other? I wonder if the phos & oil bolt will prevent it from locking down as tight even with a thread locker. Thoughts?
Thank you so much that is a big help. I did heat them and it still took 2 days of PB blaster and then Free All, three Torx bits and a torch. They were really rusted in there. I wanted to be certain I use the right grade for my daughters safety. Thanks for being so quick and for the picture...
I beg you all tell me what grade this dang bolt is? Im going nutso with these bolts. I want to replace them with hex head since the stupid torx bolts suck. I know its metric ( M12) and the thread size is 1.75 but the grade is where im stuck.
T50 is the size and i suggest you order ALOT of them. I took out my rear middle seat belts and holy cow those bolts fought me so hard we snapped like 3 bits. Anyone know what grade those stupid Metric 12's are? Im replacing them with a hex bolt
Thank you. I actually figured it out. I refurbished my instrument cluster and it wasnt working. took it off again and realized i hadnt pushed the that power thingy bober in all the way. all is well now. With that anyway. Ive named this Burb " Pandora" because everytime i go to fix one thing...
I did it yesterday. Just as you described. Ill give it a couple of days then run water thru. Now to repair a leaky windshield gasket and see why i get no power to the " Instrument fuse". I appreciate how detailed you were about your cowl process. HUGE help
thru my research (currently doing the same thing) i have found that most feel the copper heater core pumps out heat best( your truck was built with the copper one). I only have the heater in front so i chose that one. If you have a front AND rear heater you probably could get away with aluminum...
thru my research (currently doing the same thing) i have found that most feel the copper heater core pumps out heat best( your truck was built with the copper one). I only have the heater in front so i chose that one. If you have a front AND rear heater you probably could get away with aluminum...