Post experiences on removing exhaust manifold bolts

[davbell22602]

Post experiences on removing exhaust manifold studs

I wanna hear some of your good and bad experiences when removing exhaust manifold bolts. From broken bolts to worn rounded off heads, etc.

I average person would pay a exhaust shop the drill them out and redrill the holes.

Well I broke one and had one where the head was worn where I couldnt a perfect fit socket on it.

 

[HotRodPC]

Are you talking the bolts to the head, or are you talking the studs where the donut flange or gasket meets the head pipe?

 

[crazy4offroad]

Once upon a time...
[Insert every explicative you know here]
The End.

LOL but seriously I've had to drill/tap them when they break off even, or cut the head off if it rounds off. At least if it rounds off, once you get the manifold off you can put a pipe wrench on it and usually get it out. I haven't had these problems since I started running headers.

 

[davbell22602]

Are you talking the bolts to the head, or are you talking the studs where the donut flange or gasket meets the head pipe?

The studs you see on the outside that go into the head.

 

[Irishman999]

Im currently driving around with a broken stud in my manifold where it bolts to the pipe. **** just snapped off, If I remember right its before I got a can of pb blaster and tried busting it loose with nothing on it. Snapped right off.

 

[HotRodPC]

Once upon a time...
[Insert every explicative you know here]
The End.

LOL but seriously I've had to drill/tap them when they break off even, or cut the head off if it rounds off. At least if it rounds off, once you get the manifold off you can put a pipe wrench on it and usually get it out. I haven't had these problems since I started running headers.

That's right. You hope if you break it, when you get the rest off you have at least a nub to get ahold of with a small pipe wrecnh, and I have had great success with curved jaw Vise Grips in good shape where the jaw teeth would dig into the bolt or stud and get a good bite on it. And of course you have sprayed some kind of WD-40, trans fluid or PB Blater. A little heat can help sometimes too.
The real trick I find that works, once you have a good bite on it with a pipe wrench or Vise Grip, don't be afraid to go forward either as if tighening it once the bolt or stud has broke. Work it back and forth adding a bit of your spray a couple times as you do this. Just keep working it loosen and tighten, going more to the loosen direction each time. It knocks off the rust and allows it move around instead of keep jamming up in the threads and trashing your threads. Then when you get it out, chase it with a tap and spray to make sure you got all the crap out the hole. That is my best advice and I know it works. As far as breaking it off at the surface. SOL, drill it is only option.

 

[davbell22602]

I was told to never use torch on the studs cause it can ruin the head. Also I was told to try to remove the studs by spraying pb blaster on them, then run the engine til hot, and try taking them out while the engine is hot.

 

[HotRodPC]

I've got a broken exhaust manifold bolt on the Box Van. Its a 460 motor crammed into a Van. How much room do you think I have to fix that??? NONE. It also happens to be the bolt that bolts the oil dipstick to the side of the motor, so my dipstick kinda floats around doing its own thing now. Actually not alot of room for it to travel very far and do any damange, but I did zip tie it to a hose to hold it in place. Its not leaking yet. Its the far front exhaust manifold bolt to the head. I am hoping it lasts that way until I ever need to pull the motor, but I hope that's not anytime soon either.

 

[Swims350]

we actually have a stud extractor works great on broke bolts. or vice grips/locking pliers, or pipe wrench.

I've removed manifolds on4 vehicles that I can think of right off, all of them came out perfect. I used an impact on dad's 86 k10, not sure on his 84, on mine I used a ratchet.

On the bottom side I always impact, all of them, and almost ALWAYS have one or more break. I had a couple break on mine, then I tried to get the studs out of the manifold and they broke, I got maybe 2 or 3 studs out in tact not broken. The block side I always had good luck with though.

 

[HotRodPC]

I was told to never use on the studs cause it can ruin the head. Also I was told to try to remove the studs by spraying pb blaster on them, then run the engine til hot, and try taking them out while the engine is hot.

That's the same as adding heat and should work well too.

 

[HotRodPC]

Personally, I don't know why auto manufactuers just don't use brass bolts for exhaust manifolds to the head and for the head pipe flanges. Brass is soft, it will give way instead of break. Also does not corode or rust near as bad as steel. I alwasy use brass nuts on exhaust studs. It keeps the studs in good shape. But I too have got sick of manifold stud problems and gone to headers on a couple vehicles. Sucks replacing header gaskets occasionally, but at least the bolts hold up and don't break.

 

[89Suburban]

How am I supposed to attack head gaskets by myself reading this ****? I may as well cough up the extra dough to pay someone else to do it.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

I think every service manual should have this.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Irishman999]

How am I supposed to attack head gaskets by myself reading this ****? I may as well cough up the extra dough to pay someone else to do it.

You can do it man. I changed out heads on A 460 ford at the age of 16 for a neighbor, only special tool you need is the torque wrench.

 

[RetroC10Sport]

How am I supposed to attack head gaskets by myself reading this ****? I may as well cough up the extra dough to pay someone else to do it.

Be brave. We're right here to help ridicule you!

I'm kidding. You know we'll be here to help with any questions you have.